Forrest blade turn-around time...

[Scott Parks]

A few weeks ago, it was asked about turn-around time and sharpening of a Forrest blade.

I sent it on May 11th, priority mail, about $7. I called them about 8 days later and they hadn't even touched it yet, but said they'd have it out by next week. I just received it today (Jun 1.) 2.5 weeks...

They waived the charge, because I complained that I've never been able to get a smooth cut from it, and I haven't had it very long. Otherwise, they charge $20 to sharpen and return.

I'll be sawing some oak for crown molding tonight, we'll see how well it cuts now...

[Frank Hagan]

I loved the way my thin kerf blade cut, but several of the carbide tips detached themselves when cutting through some plastic (I wasn't injured). A call to Forrest was met with just a statement that the blade was no longer under warranty (it was almost 3 years old at the time). I was wondering if it happens often, or if it was the material I was cutting, etc., but couldn't get any other information from them other than "its out of warranty", so I have switched to Freud. I'm not happy with the cut like I was with the WWII blade, and will try others, but having carbide teeth flying off the blade is not something I want to have repeated.

I suspect a tooth was loose, came off and stuck into the plastic, and the other teeth came off after slamming into that stuck tooth. That may not have happened with wood, or with a wider blade with a better brazing of the carbide tooth. I always felt the WWII was a superior quality product, and I'm not bashing them. But I decided I didn't want to buy a new, $100 blade every three years ... especially since I had perhaps 40 hours on that blade in the three years.

[Michael Pfau]

Scott, I have the woodworkerII thin kerf. I had it sharpened here in town and they did a great job. Also I can you get you a phone number of a sharpening place in Salt Lake. The Delta dealer here in town claims they are outstanding and reasonable. They sharpen everything. Let me know if I can help you.

[CPeter James]

I have two Forrest WWIIs and also two blades from Ridge Carbide. I really like the Ridge blades and think that they cut just as well as the Forrest.

CPeter

[Charlie Plesums]

... I decided I didn't want to buy a new, $100 blade every three years ... .

Forrest will replace damaged (missing) teeth for a modest charge ($3 each for four or more).

[craig carlson]

I have to agree with you. I had the same problem and other blades that I have cut just as well. It's just not worth it for me. Kinda reminds me of an old saying, the two most over rated things in the world are Mack trucks and teenage sex, maybe the Forrest blades fit in there as well.
Craig

[Rob Littleton]

Forrest will replace damaged (missing) teeth for a modest charge ($3 each for four or more).

I must tell Granma, her dentist charges a fortune :-)

[Ralph Barhorst]

I just received my Woodworker blade back from a sharpening and replacement of 6 teeth. It took about 2 weeks and they did an excellent job. I don't think that the blade cut this good when it was new. Of course my memory is not that good either.:D

[Scott Parks]

Tried it out this morning on some maple. Sharp and good as new! Still some scoring and a little burning in some places, but I'll blame this on the tension of the maple closing up on the blade. (I don't use a splitter). Crosscuts were beautiful!

Note: Something I learned from Forrest. They said that when ripping hardwoods with the 40 tooth blade, make sure you raise the blade an inch higher than your board thickness. This keeps the blade cooler and from burning. They also don't recomend using this blade for grooves or rabbets for this reason.

[John Shuk]

Tried it out this morning on some maple. Sharp and good as new! Still some scoring and a little burning in some places, but I'll blame this on the tension of the maple closing up on the blade. (I don't use a splitter). Crosscuts were beautiful!

Note: Something I learned from Forrest. They said that when ripping hardwoods with the 40 tooth blade, make sure you raise the blade an inch higher than your board thickness. This keeps the blade cooler and from burning. They also don't recomend using this blade for grooves or rabbets for this reason.
Scott,
Why don't you use a spiltter? It seems like you could be asking for trouble.