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View Full Version : Is there a solution for my hollowing problem?



Brian Brown
10-09-2013, 6:25 PM
Last week, I had to go to Texas. Couldn't afford airfare for 4 so we loaded up the car and were off. SWMBO insisted that we stop at CSUSA as we went through Provo. Said she "needed wood". "But dear the garage is full of wood" I said, but she said "CS now", and I said "Yes dear". When we got there, turns out she she really didn't need wood, but wanted me to pick out a new hollowing tool for my birthday. Ummmmm.... I was already confused about which tool to get, and after talking to the sales guy at CS I was even more confused. Ended up leaving without the tool. On the bright side, SWMBO did get a few pieces of wood. CS recommended the Easy Hollower, and I finally got to put my hands on one. I liked the general Idea, but can't see how I can make it work to solve my problem. So I suppose you need to know my problem to help me. I'll do my best to explain it, and maybe the pics can help where my description doesn't.

I make some solid wood forms similar to the pics below, and I can't find a tool that allows me to hollow out to the extreme far distances inside. I like to use a small hole on top, and that limits the tool as to how far it can reach inside, and even more so, the angle that would allow it to reach the full inside. I could use a larger hole, then glue on a collar I suppose. I don't mind collars, but I also like to make solid wood forms. I guess maybe it's that "How'd you do that factor". I currently own a Hunter #3 full swan neck tool, and I like it well enough, but it can't make the full reach. It also has a round shaft, and it rolls easily on the tool rest, causing some horrendous catches at times. The pic sorta shows the reach problem. It can't get to the area in red. Also, after finishing a hollowing job, I usually feel like 10 miles of bad road. It kind of wears me out. I have to maintain a real death grip on the handle to keep it from rolling.

The easy hollower has a flat bottom shaft, that really would work to keep it from rolling, and probably would not require the death grip. However, it seems to me that the wide shaft would make it impossible to get the angle right to get up under the shoulders of the form. It would work fine on smaller projects where I didn't need to reach more than about 3.5-4 inches, but for a longer reach (larger form), the wide part of the shaft would have to get into the hole, and too much of a tool angle to get to the shoulders angle would tear the hole out. I think it would have trouble cutting in the red area in the pic. Easy woods online diagram shows that it is possible to make this cut, but I just can't see it with a larger diameter form. I do make some smaller forms, and this tool would probably work, but I would like one tool that allows me do do larger forms also. I recently finished one that is about 10 inch diameter, and about 6.5-7 inches tall. I really liked how it turned out, except that the wall is so thick at the largest diameter area, that it feels like picking up an anvil. It loses that delicate feeling. Easy Wood's video shows that type of hollowing done with ease, but the form they are turning is only about 4-4.5 inches in diameter. So my questions are :

1. Am I asking too much of a hollowing tool to be able to to this hollowing through a small hole?
2. If you use the Easy Wood swan neck, what do you think of it?
3. What other tools do you work with that would be more likely to get deep enough?
4. What other tools have a flat bottom on the shaft to keep them from twisting?
5. I am not in a position to get a captured system, but is there a good tool out there that does a good job, in a single tool,
and offers a laser attachment?

I don't have the tools or access to the materials to make my own tools, so I guess I'll need a commercial tool. So, can anyone help SWMBO spend some money?

Dennis Ford
10-09-2013, 7:09 PM
My choice for this is a Sorby arm brace with hollowing tools modeled after John Jordan's tools. The 3/4" shank tools are strong enough to reach all parts of a 10" diameter X 7" tall form and will work in a 1-1/4" - 1-1/2" opening. D-Way is now offering a set-up that looks interesting also.

Peter Blair
10-09-2013, 8:12 PM
May be too big AND too expensive but have you checked out?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJo-mQUHoQs

Richard Coers
10-09-2013, 8:19 PM
I prefer something with a swivel head on it. It allows the tool to be extended or rotated on the same side as the handle. I use a older Stewart tool, but you can use a Sorby in an articulated system.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/7/2/32/133/-/5557/Robert-Sorby-Bent-Shank-Multi-Tip-Hollowing-Tool
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/7/2/32/133/-/3176/Robert-Sorby-RS2000-Hollowing-System-Hooker-Tool

Peter Blair
10-09-2013, 8:29 PM
I have both of these but they don't work through a very small hole.
Possibly this might work better for you.
http://www.shop.woodcut-tools.com/section.php?xSec=2
I have one of these but don't use it too much . . .
What is the hole size you would like to work through and what are sort of typical dimensions of your hollow forms?

charlie knighton
10-10-2013, 9:08 AM
suggest you do about 5 spitoons forms, get over the small opening

Matthew Little
10-10-2013, 9:18 AM
Here check out this video:

http://youtu.be/llFMhrKNziA

Lyle Jamieson has plans on his website on how to build this rig yourself. If you have the cash, and want something that will get most hollowing jobs done I suggest picking up a monster captive hollowing system. I picked one up the other day, and gave it a run through on a couple of pieces. I am loving it so far. Here is a picture of a form I hollowed the other day. Not a small opening, but plenty deep:

http://31.media.tumblr.com/af49882703a53bd196e942a76e2d1bd9/tumblr_mubyptmjYw1rqzbpao3_500.jpg

With the swivel head attachments and proper technique you should be able to have a form with a fairly small opening. Good luck!

Thom Sturgill
10-10-2013, 10:05 AM
Brian, I think looking at pictures of turnings with the tool will quickly show that no one tool will do it all. An articulated tool will come the closest because you need different amounts of crook to get to different areas of the shape just like the kelton bowl saver comes with a variety of curved blades. I like Ellsworth's straight and angled tools but he shows a bunch of special tools he made for different shapes. The problem with most adjustable tip tools is the size of the end where the adjustment is made and the size of the hole you are trying to get through.
Some thing like the Munro mini hollower pictured below might work, but I've not tried one yet.
272579
I use something like the crooked Sorby shown below occassionally, though I have not been particularly successful with small holes and wide pieces either. I modified mine to take a hunter type carbide.
272580

Scott Hackler
10-10-2013, 11:07 AM
For ALL of my smaller HFs I use a Bejamin Best hollowing set (well the straight one and the first curved one. The radically bent one is a catch monster and doesn't get used). These tools are HHS and about 1/4" square stock. Great tools for HF's under 4" in diameter. I like to hollow those through a 1/2-5/8" hole.

For the larger HF's I still use the small hand tools to get right under the hole and part of the inside shoulder. Then I either hand hollow with my Trent Bosch set or (now) clamp those bars in my recently aquired Gizmo articulated hollower and get after it!

I know Don Derry makes a cool little hand hollowing rig that has a laser attachment. It is a cool design but wouldn't work for me because the square bar stock is (I think) is 5/8" square. That is too large for my 1/2" openings.

Just remember that hand hollowing is 90% feel and technique. Most of the tools all do the same thing so it's just a matter of getting the process down (experience), sharp bur on the edge and keeping the cut line slightly above center. I also hollow around 1000 rpm (although most people prefer to go a little slower). My belt driven 1624 jumps from 600 to 1000, so 600 is too slow for me.

Good luck and be safe.

Wally Dickerman
10-10-2013, 11:53 AM
Brian, C'mon down to Arizona and we'll work on your hollowing. I suggest that you forget about the very small openings for awhile. I haven't used the tool you have but I think that there are bettor tools available.

Kyle Iwamoto
10-10-2013, 12:02 PM
Brian, I made a Hollow Form like your illustration using the Don Derry hollowing system, although I did purchase his extra bar set. I can post a pic if you like. I used a 3/4" hole though. I like captured systems. It takes all of the physical stresses out of hollowing. I can hollow for hours using either the Monster rig or the Derry rig. The Monster is used for the biger HFs. The Derry rig is quite nifty, works well for smaller HFs. I have a few hand held hollowers that I use sparingly. As mentioned, no single tool can do everything.
If price is an issue for a captured system, check the bay and type hollowing tool. There is a guy that is selling a hollower with laser (light duty, I think). Not sure on the quality, but it's fairly inexpensive.

I give you a lot of credit leaving CSUSA without buying a tool though. I know I couldn't do it.....

Dwight Rutherford
10-10-2013, 1:42 PM
90% of all I do are hollow forms. I use hand held, arm brace and a captured system depending on the size and shape. All of the pieces are turned 3/16"--1/4" thick. No one tool will do everything. Most of my tools are home made, as I have limited funds. Made my own captured system for $85.00 by going here https://www.lylejamieson.com/tools/tool_howto.asp
For materials you can find them locally at Teton Steel. Now all you need is to find is someone with an acetylene torch and welding equipment. Should be easy in Idaho Falls.
Boring bars vary in Dia. from 3/8"--3/4". I bend them in the shop to suit my needs. Use a "MAP" gas hand torch. Before bending , drill a 3/16" hole in the end. After bending, insert a 3/16" HSS steel tool bit (ENCO , MRC, or McMaster-Carr). Use medium thick CA. Hope this helps.

robert baccus
10-10-2013, 11:55 PM
Captured systems(factory or homemade) And you can always customize your present tools with a mapp torch as Dwight suggests. A torch and hammer can do a lot.

Brian Brown
10-11-2013, 8:06 AM
Peter,

The typical hole size I try to work with is about 7/8"- 1". They usually start at 7/8" and by the time I have tried to cut the shoulder, the hole has been pounded out to an inch or more. Most forms are in the 6-7 inch diameter range, but I would like to go 10 inches or more depending on the size of my original blank. The woodcut tools look interesting, but are the shafts round, or are they flat on one side?

Brian Brown
10-11-2013, 8:58 AM
Wow. So much good information. I looked at some of the tools suggested. I guess all I really need is lots of money. :D I really try to not be a collector of tools. Unless something really works for a wide range of uses and sizes I try to avoid them. Maybe I should try to make some of my own tools. Anybody know where I can buy an extra day or two every week? Wally, if I could find some time in my schedule, I would be down there in a heart beat. I am going to keep working at this. There has to be a solution without breaking the bank. Maybe collars are the way to go while I get some experience. I have thought in the past about trying to build my own articulated system. Maybe I should look into it some more. Thanks for the suggestions, and please keep them coming.

Peter Blair
10-11-2013, 9:25 AM
Brian one more to look at is the hollowing tool sold by DWAY tools. Not that expensive and I believe it will do all you need.
I bought the one for turning in reverse. It doesn't have a laser but I think the little spring works pretty well even though I can't use it as well as Dave does in this video.
http://www.d-waytools.com/tools-hollowing.html