VFD Remote Control Wiring

[David DeCristoforo]

I realize that this might seem a bit dense but I really would like to get it right! I have a pretty good grip on how to change the programming ones the remote controls are connected. But I want to make sure I have the wiring right.

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The Forward/Reverse Switch:
The switch I have is a three position switch (on/off/on). It has three posts for connecting wires, none of which are marked in any way. The three terminals on the VFD that are indicated for the forward/reverse function are marked "Fwd", "Rev" and "12v". It would be logical to assume that the "hot" wire (12v) should be connected to the center post on the switch with the "Fwd" and "Rev" terminals connected to the top and bottom post on the switch.


Do I have this right? With this configuration, will the three position switch work as I am assuming it will, that is the machine will be off with the switch in the center position and that the switch will turn it on in either forward or reverse? Or do I need a separate switch for on/off? I have a pushbutton switch and I can work that in but I really don't see the need for another on/off switch as the controls will be within easy reach.


The Speed Controller:
I also have a potentiometer for controlling the speed. It also has three connection posts, also unmarked. The terminals on the VFD that are indicated for the speed control are marked "V1", "OV" and "10V". Again , it seems logical to assume that the "hot" wire (10v) should be connected to the center post on the pot with the other two terminals connected to the top and bottom posts on the switch.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

David,

Do you have a multimeter that will allow you to make resistance checks?

[David DeCristoforo]

"Do you have a multimeter that will allow you to make resistance checks?"

I do have one but I'm not at all sure how to use it! I do know how to check for continuity with it.... Please keep in mind that I am "challenged" in this area!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

David....checking continuity is all you need to be able to do.

Are you available for a telephone call from a deaf guy?

We could talk this through faster than we can type.

If you are....PM me your telephone number.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

When you use a multimeter to check resistance or continuity, you are looking for a "short" or an "open".

With the meter in the resistance mode, if you touch the ends of the meter leads together you create a "short" and should measure "0" ohms.

With the meter in the resistance mode, if you DON'T touch the ends of the meter leads together, you have an "open" and should measure "Infinity" ohms.

Check continuity (look for a short) between the 3 connections of the switch. There are 3 possible combinations. I would take notes just to keep from forgetting what I measured but....

1 connection should measure continuity to both of the other connections one at a time depending on the position of the switch. The other two connections should never measure continuity between each other.

The 12v would be connected to the 1 connection that is common or measures continuity to both of the other 2 leads.

FWD and REV would be connected to the other 2 connections. It really doesn't matter other than what seems "normal" for you.

[David DeCristoforo]

Got it. I think I can do that! Thanx...

[Ken Fitzgerald]

On the potentiometer there are 3 leads. Use your meter in the resistance mode.

When connected to two leads, 1 combination will maintain a set resistance that doesn't change regardless of where you adjust the knob. These two connections go to terminals #8 and #10 per the Teco FM50 manual.

The 3rd connection when measured to either of the other 2 terminals will vary it's resistance measurement as you move the knob. This connection goes to terminal 9 per the Teco FM-50 manual.

[Thom Sturgill]

Normally a potentiometer will read maximum across the two outside terminals with the center terminal changing 0-max on one end and max-0 against the other. I would tend to think that V0 and V10 would go to the end posts and V1 to the center. Probably in the V0 V1 V10 order as you look at the leads. If the speed seems to go from high to low instead of low to high, reverse the outer connections.


-/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/-
|.......^............ |
|.......|.............|
V0......V1..........V10 Ignore the dots - i threw them in to force spacing

Don't know it that will look right once published. V1 would vary in voltage (resistance) as you turn the knob. Put your multimeter across the end leads in resistance or ohms mode and twist the knob to see if the reading stays constant. If it does not check one end against the middle lead. If that does not stay constant then check the middle against the other end lead. The lead that you just eliminated is the variable lead and probably goes to V1, but check your documentation on that.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

David,

It was good talking with you.

Sorry to rush you off the telephone but telephone conversations are one of the hardest things a cochlear implant recipient can do. It's a real mental struggle!

The audio quality of telephones and televisions are such poor quality it can be difficult for us deafies with a CI to understand. It's like having bad speakers on a stereo system. You can turn the volume all you want but with a bad speaker...it still sounds bad and you may not undestand what is being said. Often all you can understand may be a letter at the end or beginning or both of a word and you have to try to fill in the blank. It really is a mental struggle.

Your ideas based on your measurements are correct and things should go well.

If I can be of any further help don't hesitate to PM here or call me at home.

Good luck David!

[Sid Matheny]

Sorry to rush you off the telephone but telephone conversations are one of the hardest things a cochlear implant recipient can do. It's a real mental struggle!

The audio quality of telephones and televisions are such poor quality it can be difficult for us deafies with a CI to understand. It's like having bad speakers on a stereo system. You can turn the volume all you want but with a bad speaker...it still sounds bad and you may not understand what is being said. Often all you can understand may be a letter at the end or beginning or both of a word and you have to try to fill in the blank. It really is a mental struggle.

Your ideas based on your measurements are correct and things should go well.

I still can't use any phone except a CapTel that has text captions! 5 years using a CI.


Sid

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Sid,

I have Meniere's disease. Even with my CI, my hearing and balance issues fluctuate periodically. Sometimes I do okay on the telephone and other times, it is so bad, I use my CapTel phone. For some reason today, captioning wouldn't work. That has only happened a time to two since I got it.

In 4 days it will be my 2nd CI surgery anniversary. I wasn't activated for another 5 weeks, just before Thanksgiving.

[roger oldre]

I know you are set up for the three position switch alone but it might be good to consider separate switches for forward and reverse and another for on off. The reason being in a rush it is possible to knock the switch from forward to reverse without stoping in the middle. witha vfd several things can happen 1 the vfd will fault...no problem. 2 it is possible to blow the vfd because there is not a properly sized brake to switch into line tho shunt the load. 3 it is possible to unscrew the chuck from the headstock or damage the threads because you have the grub screw tightned up to prevent it from unscrewing. simple two position on/on switch for rotation and a second on/off. you can keep the change.

[Dick Strauss]

Follow the three wires (yellow, orange, and brown) in the pictures I sent to see how to wire up the potentiometer to the 10v, iV, and 0v terminals