Yes, yes,yes a new LN PLANE Gloat

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Hi All, I first want to thank everybody for your suggestions on which plane I sould buy last week. I just got a LN low angle block plane(60-1/2) and I can tell already how sweet it is. I just tested it out before even honing the blade and it was SO NICE! Here's a pic of my new toy. Thanks again all. Alan in Md.

[Mark Singer]

Alan,

Its a great one! I love mine!

[Jim Becker]

My favorite! I use mine on every project, too...Congratulations!

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Did either of you ever get another blade with a different cutting angle? Since this LA is best used on end grain I was wondering if another blade was a good thing to have or just extravagant? A 38 degree grind plus the 12 degree bed would equal the 50 degree York pitch. This theoretically would give a smoother surface but have you found that you need this? Alan in Md.

[Roy Wall]

Did either of you ever get another blade with a different cutting angle? Since this LA is best used on end grain I was wondering if another blade was a good thing to have or just extravagant? A 38 degree grind plus the 12 degree bed would equal the 50 degree York pitch. This theoretically would give a smoother surface but have you found that you need this? Alan in Md.

Alan, my initial thoughts would be to let a dedicated smoother handle this task --- but I do think there is some merit in it. I talked to the LN guy at the KC WW show about it and he thought LA planes with various grind blades were able to achieve good results.

Congrats on the new LN plane.........if your like me.............it will only lead to (several) others:cool:

[John Miliunas]

Good choice, Alan! Congrats! BUT, as Roy points out, if this is your first LN, I'd be willing to bet it's NOT your last!:D Enjoy! :) :cool:

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Good choice, Alan! Congrats! BUT, as Roy points out, if this is your first LN, I'd be willing to bet it's NOT your last!:D Enjoy! :) :cool:

O.K. if this is not my last which one would you suggest getting nest? :) I would like to stop sanding and finish my work with a smoother some day. That would be great as I'm in a basement shop and am tired of wearing a respirator etc. So I'm calling your bluff so to speak, which one? :) Alan in Md.

[John Miliunas]

If you want to go to a smoother in the LN line, the #4 is a good all-around plane for smoothing. The step up, IMHO, would be the 4-1/2 with the York Pitch frog. That even does great on the figured hardwoods! I outfitted my 4.5 this last Winter with the York pitch frog and can pretty easily handle BE Maple! Careful, though...Those LN's are addicting!!!:D :cool:

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Thanks John. I'm not sure what those planes are exactly(planes or dedicated smoothers) but I'll check it out. Can't a regular jack plane be used as a smoother?

[Roy Wall]

Alan, Yes you can smooth with a properly tuned jack plane (flat sole, tight mouth, sharp blade). I too, have the LN 4.5 as John mentioned with the York pitch frog - and it should increase the "glow" of the woods finish with ease. It is a very good tool for finishing.

I think I used the term "dedicated smoother" because of this philosophy: I use the LN 4.5 for final smoothing / fitting only...get the mouth closed up tight, and a fluffy shaving depth. I'm not trying to take much wood at all.

The 4.5 is simply a wider blade ( 2 3/8) for a wider cut. The York pitch frog that fits the 4.5 will also fit the #5.5 , #6, and #7 - so I thought is was a versatile frog:)

One thing for sure - you will be very happy using a good quality plane and looking over at the respirator mask sitting on a table somewhere:cool: The smile on your face cannot be suppressed!!!

[John Miliunas]

Thanks John. I'm not sure what those planes are exactly(planes or dedicated smoothers) but I'll check it out. Can't a regular jack plane be used as a smoother?

While NOT a long-time Neander, here's my take on it: Like Roy said, yes you can use a Jack as a smoother, though I do see a couple caveats with it. First, most Jack's are a bit on the long side. Great for flattening, not quite as good for smoothing. Secondly, in a lot of instances, you want to go over your piece with the Jack first, with the mouth just a touch wider and then follow it up with the smoother. As Roy said, you'll want a very, very small throat opening for the smoother. :) The "bad" part here, of course, is that it would require TWO planes.:D Having said that, I still think you're on the right track. At some point, it would be beneficial to have one of each, so you may as well get a Jack first, which will perform multi-functions, albeit a little more labor intense in setups. You can go for a smoother down the road a bit.:) Then there's the rabbit plane, LA smoother, assortment of blocks,.....:D Well, you get the idea!:) :cool:

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Hi Allan. A block plane is sure a handy tool, but if you are going to buy more........... The first thing that you need to do is decide if you are only willing to buy 1 or 2 more or.....several. If you are only going to buy 1 or 2 more then I would suggest getting a Jack plane and a shoulder plane. If you are going to buy several I would buy in this order...... a 4 1/2 smoother, a 7 or 8 jointer, a shoulder, and a scrub. Jacks are a in between size of plane in my opinion and with a smoother and a jointer there is basically no need for one. Peter