Grizzly GO555 14 in Bandsaw....any reviews or personal opinions?

[Brandon Ketchum]

I have been looking for a band saw capable of resawing, but within my budget, and came across this grizzly model locally for $250. It is in excellent condition and also has a riser block kit. Has anyone used this particular model and have any insight/experience on its performance? I would greatly appreciate any info.

[Howard Acheson]

I bought one new about 5-6 years ago to replace an old Jet that finally gave up. I did not want the riser block but did order it with optional Cool Block blade guides. I like these guide blocks much better than the stock circular bearing guide blocks.

The saw assembled easily and all parts were included.

The saw has worked flawlessly with just an occasional cleanup and tune up.

[Tai Fu]

The only comment I have is... I saw one in Mythbusters.

[Alan Bienlein]

For $250 including the riser block it would already be sitting in my shop.

[Brandon Ketchum]

ill be on my way to get it shortly. ill let you all know how it works out.

[Prashun Patel]

Great buy for that coin.

[Jon Shank]

I've got the nearly identical Rigid version of that saw and it's been a winner. I put that same grizzly riser block on it and it works great too, no alignment issues or vibration, etc. Should be a great saw for you.

Jon

[Robert Todd]

I've had one for several years and I am very satisfied with it. No complaints.

[Dale Fitzgerald]

I have one with the riser block and have had no problems.

[Tai Fu]

I really envy being able to get a Delta 14" clone cheaply...

[Richard Coers]

It may be capable of doing some resawing, but it will be incredibly slow. You don't mention what kind of wood or height you will be sawing, but you'll get the resawing quality you pay for.

[Kenneth Walton]

It's as nice as any 14 incher, if you put a good blade on it and set it up right. When the resaws get on the 6+ inch side, you have to go exceedingly slowly, so don't expect to be quick about it. Certainly quicker than resawing by hand!

[glenn bradley]

"Grizzly GO555 14 in Bandsaw....any reviews or personal opinions?"

I thought you were kidding around when I first read this title. ;-)

Try "G0555 site:sawmillcreek.org" for about a thousand results on this site alone.

Great saw by nearly all accounts.

[Prashun Patel]

If I had to pick a nit with this saw, it'd be the guide bearings. When I had mine, the bearings required readjustment frequently. The thrust bearing nut refused to stay in position when the saw vibrated.

I also found the tension mechanism awkward.

It is a completely serviceable saw - and for your price, I think it's a great value. But if it were me, I wouldn't expect it to be more than what it is: a reliable, basic saw.

For me, resawing 12" slabs and cutting 6-7" thick green wood was a challenge - doable - but pushing the limits of the saw.

[Alan Bienlein]

The widest I can resaw on mine without a riser block is just over 8". A nice sharp 1/2" wide 3 tpi blade and its a piece of cake. I do a lot of re sawing on mine.

[Jim Finn]

I have this saw and I bought it just to re-saw and with the carbide re-saw blade from Grizzly it re-saws very well. I mostly use it to re-saw 1" x 8" Red cedar. Re-saws 1" x 8" oak a bit slower though. A woodslicer blade ($28) cuts well but does not last very long as compared to the Grizzly 5/8" carbide blade.($57)

[Mark Patoka]

I have the G0555X version of that saw (can't remember what the differences are) but I love it and have no real issues resawing with it. For that price you'll be very happy with it.

[Gordon Eyre]

I was fortunate and won the GO555LX in the last Sawmill Creek drawing and love it. I did equip it with the riser block and it works great. You should be very happy with this saw.

[Sid Matheny]

I had to have the motor rebuilt after about 6 or 7 years but was using it a lot. Other than that it has been a good saw.

Sid

[guy young]

If you tune the saw correctly, use a 3 tpi 1/2 or 3/4 it will do the job correctly, I have the the LX and use it for resawing exotic wood, such as Shedua, purpleheart, Santo Mahogany. Works great for me. As far a speed, you should be moving the stock sloooowly through the blade, so speed is not the issue

[Stew Hagerty]

My advise is don't buy it. Oh, and why don't you tell me where it is so I can remove the temptation it is causing you... :D

[Stew Hagerty]

Seriously...

I have the "X" version with a riser. The biggest difference is an extra 1/2 horse. I added some Carter guides and run Timberwolf blades and I've never had a single second thought.

[Curt Harms]

Seriously...

I have the "X" version with a riser. The biggest difference is an extra 1/2 horse. I added some Carter guides and run Timberwolf blades and I've never had a single second thought.

Stew hits one thought I had. I had a discontinued Griz bandsaw with a 3/4 h.p. motor and around 7" resaw. It needed more h.p. to cut near its capacity. I think any saw with a riser kit needs 1.5 h.p if you're going to resaw 6"+. I now have a Rikon with 1.5 h.p. and though I haven't maxed out the 13" capacity, I haven't found power lacking for what I've done to date, 10" or so.

[Brandon Ketchum]

where do you order the exotic wood that you use, if you dont mind me asking? i am wantingto get a few different things for a couple cutting boards, but am not very familiar with with options on ordering exotic woods. any info is much appreciated.

[guy young]

where do you order the exotic wood that you use, if you dont mind me asking? i am wantingto get a few different things for a couple cutting boards, but am not very familiar with with options on ordering exotic woods. any info is much appreciated.

I get most of my exotic wood from a place called MR marine wood in Stuart Florida. The lady there is named Rose. Since she has much of my lumber shipped in, I am sure you can have her drop ship to you. Her prices have been better than buying for Bell Forest. I used to buy from AllPly lumber in Freeport NY but their are gone.
They stock a lot of exotics like African mahogany, Teak, Sapele, purpleheart, etc. Stuff like Zebrawood and Brazilian mahogany "Santos" she needs to order. Real exotic Woods like Shedua she needs to hunt down, so you have to give her some time. She also stock the common hardwoods. I would post a phone number, but I do not know if that is allowed, you can PM me for it. Tell Rose Guy from the scooter dealer sent you.

[Brandon Ketchum]

Thanks gents, I really appreciate the insight. It has proven to be an excellent addition and has worked out great so far. I was impressed with my first few resaws. I have seen countless jigs/fence plans online, but do any of you that own one or similar that use a shopmade fence that has worked well and would care to spread the wealth? I would very much appreciate any direction/suggestions.

[John Schweikert]

Brandon, I own the G0555LX and use the stock fence for everything (close to the same fence as yours), resawing included with no issues. I mount a featherboard in the miter slot to keep a board tight to the fence. My fence is dead-on square, no drift issues when resawing. My most recent resawing was with 5/4 white oak to make some bracing parts for the boat I'm building. I pretty much just leave a 3/8" skip 4tpi blade on all the time out of laziness for most my cutting needs, I only change to wider or narrower blades for really special needs. Not suggesting that for you but it works for me.

I find the stock bearings to be fine. Keeping them clean helps more than anything along with setting their distance to the blade correctly. I use a blade lubricant stick regularly. The LX does everything I need.

Not sure about the design of other 555 models, but the blade tensioning release lever on the LX is wonderful since you don't have to change the tension setting to release the tension on the blade which I do at the end of each day.

[Stew Hagerty]

Thanks gents, I really appreciate the insight. It has proven to be an excellent addition and has worked out great so far. I was impressed with my first few resaws. I have seen countless jigs/fence plans online, but do any of you that own one or similar that use a shopmade fence that has worked well and would care to spread the wealth? I would very much appreciate any direction/suggestions.

I use the stock fence exclusively Brandon. Although, of course, I have made a jig or two (who doesn't?).

I made a large circle cutting jig that you can find plans for, ideas about, and videos of all over the net, so I'm not going to go into that one.

I used to use a featherboard a lot, and I still do on occasion, but I made myself a jig that I like much better. I simply took a small piece of 1/2" ply, cut three slots in it (I step cut the center one so that there is a cavity on the bottom side to recess the bolt head). I put expandable miter slot slides in the outer two and attached a wheel to the center one.

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I use this two ways. One is with the wheel. I made a corrisponding jig that slips onto the top of the stock fence in the "down position", then I adjust the fence where I want it for the cut. Next I position the wheel so that it projects beyond the edge of the plywood, and set the jig so that the wheel just touches the edge of the workpiece just a tiny fraction of an inch in front of the blade. I snug up the knob closest to me, then put some pressure against the plywood so that the wheel is applying pressure against the workpiece and snug the back knob. Then I start up the saw and run the piece(s) through. The wheel is much smoother than a featherboard and, since there is no risk of kick-back, there is no risk.

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The other way I use it is for small pieces. I retract the wheel so that it is NOT beyond the edge of the plywood. Then, as before, I adjust the fence for the cut (although this time I do not need the fence accessory). I place the workpiece against the fence and slide it up against the blade. Then I gently push the plywood base against the workpiece (Note: this will not work on pieces that do not have parallel sides). At this point I snug both knobs, making sure that there the jig is just barely touching the piece. Now I just start the saw and push the workpiece(s) through.

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[Gus Dundon]

Check an old thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?27764-Shop-Made-Bandsaw-Fences-Got-any-pictures

[David Delo]

Since the GO555 saw has the bearing guide system, how would this saw handle a 3/16" blade for curved & radius work? Doesn't seems like there would be contact area for a less wide blade. Anyone have opinion?

[Stew Hagerty]

Since the GO555 saw has the bearing guide system, how would this saw handle a 3/16" blade for curved & radius work? Doesn't seems like there would be contact area for a less wide blade. Anyone have opinion?

I actually upgraded my saw to Carter Guides. They changed my good saw into a GREAT saw. Plus, I am now able to use their "Stabilizer" for scrolling.

[Prashun Patel]

I didn't have an issue with a 1/4" blade on this saw even with the bearings. I found that this saw tensioned thin blades very easily (in the sense that I could get them to flutter). The bearings on my saw were worthy of replacement because they MOVED over time. If I were doing thinner work often, I'd strongly consider blocks (there's info on reconfiguring yr holders to accommodate blocks). However, if you are only doing it occasionally, I don't think it's necessary.

Keep those bearings clean and check them often.

[David Delo]

Think I'll try a 3/16" blade without doing anything to the machine and see how it works out. Looking to do 4 to 5 inch hardwood for bandsaw boxes. Grizzly tells me the block guides from the G1019 fit this saw but their opinion is I should not have to because this saw can go down to 1/8" no problem. I'm looking to do some tight radius's to fancy-up the box.......so we shall see. I just installed a big lathe that's taking up a bunch of space so unfortunately, the Ridgid 14" that does this function needs to go. I'll use a Jet 16" for resaw and dedicate this Griz for the curved. Thanks for the advise.