SCMI 24" BS on for $1800...

[Michael Dunn]

3 phase. What should I do? I have the money. I just resawed some 8/4 Cherry on my Rikon 10-340 with less than desirable results. Will this SCMI be a great resaw machine?

[Phil Thien]

The Rikon 10-340 should do fine resawing 8/4 lumber.

If I were you, I'd spend the time and effort you'd put into the SCMI into marketing your woodworking business.

[guy knight]

3 phase. What should I do? I have the money. I just resawed some 8/4 Cherry on my Rikon 10-340 with less than desirable results. Will this SCMI be a great resaw machine?


yes it will be a great machine

[Michael Dunn]

The Rikon 10-340 should do fine resawing 8/4 lumber. If I were you, I'd spend the time and effort you'd put into the SCMI into marketing your woodworking business.

It didn't do too great on the 8/4 Cherry. Table is a perfect 90 deg to the blade. It was my best resaw cut yet with the saw though.

I'm actually doing quite a bit of marketing. I just more than quadrupled my advertising budget. I'm getting calls like crazy. One in particular is for a global display company with a Chicago branch that wants me to make 30 displays... Of some sort. I'm waiting on the drawings. I also have work coming in from some other websites that I am a member of. That, and good old fashioned word of mouth.

[Jim Becker]

I big heavy bandsaw setup for resawing isn't a terrible thing to have at all! And you can deal with the three-phase in multiple ways, including a VFD.

[Erik Loza]

Well, it is a quality machine and you can never have too big of a bandsaw, so if you are in need of something like that, it could be a good find. I would actually keep the Rikon for smaller projects and just set up the big one for dedicated re-sawing or whatever. Do you have thee-phase power or would you need to put an inverter on the motor to run it?

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[mreza Salav]

I'd say it is very convenitent to have two bandsaws, one for rewsaw (which that SCMI would be a good choice) and one for curve work; changing blades is a pain.
Hooking up a VFD up to 4 (or 5)HP is easy and cost effective way of running a 3-phase machine. I have a similar size bandsaw that I run with a VFD.

[eugene thomas]

I put carbide blade on my 513 grizzly and like night and day from regular blade. Now the 12" max height another story.

[johnny means]

I have the Centauro version of that saw. Run to her now. She's a real beast and will serve as a professional grade machine for the rest of your career.

BTW, through in a lowball offer first.

[Michael Dunn]

I have the Centauro version of that saw. Run to her now. She's a real beast and will serve as a professional grade machine for the rest of your career. BTW, through in a lowball offer first.

It turns out the guy selling it is a fellow creeker. He says $1800 firm.

[Michael Dunn]

I'd say it is very convenitent to have two bandsaws, one for rewsaw (which that SCMI would be a good choice) and one for curve work; changing blades is a pain. Hooking up a VFD up to 4 (or 5)HP is easy and cost effective way of running a 3-phase machine. I have a similar size bandsaw that I run with a VFD.

If I get the SCMI it'll be my third BS. I have the Rikon 10-340, and a Jet 14". I'd keep them all if I end up snagging this SCMI.

[Andrew Joiner]

Michael do you really think you'll be bidding on a lot of jobs that require resawing? Aren't you going after commercial work? A vertical panel saw would a more valuable machine right now for the work your after.

[Michael Dunn]

Michael do you really think you'll be bidding on a lot of jobs that require resawing? Aren't you going after commercial work? A vertical panel saw would a more valuable machine right now for the work your after.

I think you're right. I should probably not be buying this.

[Andrew Fleck]

It turns out the guy selling it is a fellow creeker. He says $1800 firm.



That must be the one in St Louis. I watch the classifieds like a hawk in that area. Good luck with it.

Andrew

[Thomas Hotchkin]

There is a 27" Northfield for almost half price long drive http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/tls/4106565867.html

[Rick Fisher]

I have a 24" SCMI Bandsaw. It will resaw up to 12-1/2" with ease.

The 18" Rikon should do the job, I wonder what type of blade your using on the Rikon ?

[Joseph Tarantino]

...... I just resawed some 8/4 Cherry on my Rikon 10-340 with less than desirable results........

without looking to be rude, i'd investigate the saw set up first and my technique second before moving on to another machine. that 10-340 is a great BS and, properly set up and bladed, should handle cherry with relative ease.

[Jim Matthews]

Out of curiousity (I don't have a dog in this fight) - what's the cost of a Gee-whiz blade for your current saw compared to the $1800 plus new blades for the Centauro?

There's a great desire to get tooling up front on a new gig.
Those purchases would be better made, with some form of lease based on deposits for existing orders.

Having unused capacity is a drain on your cash flow.
You might pay more for a similar machine later,
but you'll have cash put by on that date.

Better to wait.

[eugene thomas]

I have 14" and 17" saw so get by but if upgrading I would want new saw to have at least 16" or for resawing. Every time do project that am going to make veneer that resaw height never seems to be enough.

[Larry Fox]

I might be inclined to grab it. Other than not having the utility of the $1800 while you make up your mind it seems like a $0.00 cost option as it is a very high quality machine and you should be able to sell it for at least what you paid for it should you change your mind.

[Richard Coers]

I have 14" and 17" saw so get by but if upgrading I would want new saw to have at least 16" or for resawing. Every time do project that am going to make veneer that resaw height never seems to be enough.

You guys must be getting monster timbers. 16" resaw capacity? Sounds like you need a small bandsaw mill. Really nice for resaw up to 24", and you don't have to wrestle the stock.

[Michael Dunn]

without looking to be rude, i'd investigate the saw set up first and my technique second before moving on to another machine. that 10-340 is a great BS and, properly set up and bladed, should handle cherry with relative ease.

I hear ya. It could very well be just that. I have a 3/4" TW blade, but I think a 3/4" WS is on the 10-340 at the moment. I wasn't even actually looking for this BS or a BS at all. I came across it while looking for something else that I actually need. A SCMS.

I do need to read/watch about resaw technique. I'm pretty sure my saw is setup properly. I'm guessing it is my technique.

[Michael Dunn]

Out of curiousity (I don't have a dog in this fight) - what's the cost of a Gee-whiz blade for your current saw compared to the $1800 plus new blades for the Centauro? There's a great desire to get tooling up front on a new gig. Those purchases would be better made, with some form of lease based on deposits for existing orders. Having unused capacity is a drain on your cash flow. You might pay more for a similar machine later, but you'll have cash put by on that date. Better to wait.

I opted not to buy this 24" SCMI. It just isn't the right timing. There are other glaring needs in my shop. I still have to buy all the 8" and 6" PVC and fittings. I still need a good SCMS. That's about it for the types of jobs I'm landing of late.

Thanx for being a voice of reason along with the one or two other guys.

[Jeff Duncan]

I'd have to agree with your decision, there are a lot of expenses setting up a new shop! That wasn't so great a deal that you'll never see it again so sometimes you have to let them go. Although I will say if you end up doing a lot of re-sawing you will eventually want a bigger saw. I've been doing more and more of it the last few years and I may be looking to upgrade my Delta 20" in the next couple years.

Second unrelated point.....this is your professional shop now. Don't know about your area or if your going to eventually have employees or really anything about your situation.....but if you plan on growing your business the PVC pipe for duct collection is not going to cut it down the road. It's fine for hobby shops and such, but if you ever get inspected forget about it! Something you may want to reconsider before shelling out a lot of cash on something you may have to toss a couple years from now. Spiral is expensive but it's pretty much standard for pro shops.

good luck,
JeffD

[Michael W. Clark]

Second unrelated point.....this is your professional shop now. Don't know about your area or if your going to eventually have employees or really anything about your situation.....but if you plan on growing your business the PVC pipe for duct collection is not going to cut it down the road. It's fine for hobby shops and such, but if you ever get inspected forget about it! Something you may want to reconsider before shelling out a lot of cash on something you may have to toss a couple years from now. Spiral is expensive but it's pretty much standard for pro shops.

good luck,
JeffD

+1 on what Jeff said. Conductive materials are required for the duct system. I think they are required for the collector as well, may want to check on that, I know you were looking at a CV. If it were me, I would get a 5HP bagger and sit it in the corner. A picky inspector can get fussy about the cyclone as well since it is an "enclosed collector".

Mike

[Tai Fu]

What blade are you using to resaw your cherry? Are you using a bimetal or carbide blade? Does the blade have too many teeth? If your blade is too fine for the thickness you will have problem no matter what bandsaw you use. For 12 inch of stock even 1.3 TPI seems to be a little too much. A 18" bandsaw shouldn't have problem handling that thickness... I've even seen people do it on a 14" bandsaw with a riser block! The other issue is if you are using carbon steel blades or Timberwolf, heat can quickly destroy a carbon steel blade. Bimetal lasts about 5 times longer because it takes a much higher heat to ruin a bimetal tip (about enough to light the wood on fire). It's possible to dull your resaw blade halfway through a cut if the blade gets too hot.

I'd look into Resaw King, Woodmaster CT, or Trimaster if you are going to resaw more than a few times. Those blades will be much cheaper than a new bandsaw for sure!

[Jim Matthews]

... you should be able to sell it for at least what you paid for it should you change your mind.

Look to the original listing of the item for sale to see how long this one has been on the market.
That should give the OP an idea of how long something like can sit, unsold.

The bandsaw won't be any younger, or worth more money when that time comes.

Something this large appeals to a very small market.

Unless delivery is part of the price, few can safely move something this size - let alone dedicate sufficient space to such a large tool.

[Tai Fu]

Yea, when I was looking for the bandsaw I saw a 26" for only a little more than my 18" bandsaw, but the problem is I am not even sure it will fit in the shop, let alone through the door. So I passed on it... I'd love to have a 26" bandsaw and put a 2" blade .7 TPI on it... could cut through whole logs with that!

[Loren Woirhaye]

Considering the weight and price of the saw, you might consider getting something even bigger and heavier. I see 36" cast iron 9' tall American made band saws selling at auction regularly for under $1000, often for $500. The reason is they are very heavy, a hassle to move, may require wiring upgrades, and most shops just don't need a saw that large for the work they do. Due to the large in the frame and wheels they run super smooth.

Consider if dedicating a machine to production resawing, you'll probably want a resaw feeder/fence setup.

[Joseph Tarantino]

...... I have a 3/4" TW blade............

that could be the problem. stick with a woodslicer or a similar quality blade from iturra. well made blades can really affect the performance of a BS.

[Loren Woirhaye]

A big steel frame saw is LOT easier to move than a comparably sized vintage cast iron machine like an Oliver, Yates or Northfield. That's one issue for sure.

For resawing (for real) I want as wide a blade as I can get on the saw and a low tpi. I have a Hitachi resaw and it takes a special 3" wide blade. The wheels are about 15" but you can't put a bandmill blade on it. It will go too high tension but the bandmill blade doesn't work with the small radius so the Hitachi blades must be used. The footprint is modest though and setting it up to make a pedestrian resaw cut is not a crapshoot. I know when I used to resaw with a 1/2" Woodslicer on a 20" I could get in trouble easy if I wasn't fussy about the setup, sharpness and test cuts. The 1.25" stellite Laguna blade I went to later was better, but setups were still trickier than I would have liked because as the teeth dulled (no set) the blade would get less predictable.

I dislike setting up for resawing and the relative ease of setting up the Hitachi makes it a nice thing to have. I haven't done any precision resawing on it like cutting veneers or guitar backs.