Scroll saw question - 21" vs 30"

[Jim Leslie]

I'm about to buy a scroll saw, but am curious as to size to get. I am pretty much settled on an Excalibur but they come in both a 21" and a 30". (I have discounted the smaller version). I don't know if I would ever have a use for anything bigger than 21" but being totally new to scroll sawing, I know just because I can't think of a reason today doesn't mean there isn't one. Has anybody that has a 21" or so ever wished or had a need for more throat clearance? I have already had one vote for the 30" by someone locally here who I respect and I must admit I am leaning in the direction. Just looking for other experiences more to understand what I'm about to do!

[Mike Henderson]

Well, it's always nice to have the extra throat space when you need it. But the thing most people forget is that when you're cutting, you often are cutting with the 30" between you and the blade, which is difficult to control.

So I'd say that you will be able to do a lot with the 21" but if you want insurance the 30" provides it.

Mike

[Andrew Kertesz]

Throat depth is one size to consider but think about the footprint as well. For example the Excalibur 31" is approximately 48" front to back. I have a Hegner 22" and the overall footprint is about 24" deep by about 13" wide. If you need that throat depth you can always use your band saw for some of the work.

[Rick Potter]

I have a 26" RBI, and a 20" RBI inherited from my dad. I find that his vibrates less than my 26". I assume that would be because of the longer arm, but I can't say for sure. Anyway, I prefer the 20", but the vibration isn't that bad.

Of course it depends on what you plan to do with the saw.
Rick Potter

[Jim Leslie]

Thanks for the feedback. In the end after a hard look at the room available and how much footprint I want to give it, it's the 21" that gets the nod.

[Michael Moscicki]

Thanks for the feedback. In the end after a hard look at the room available and how much footprint I want to give it, it's the 21" that gets the nod.

You won't regret the 21 in Excalibur. When I ran out of room on my 20 in DeWalt, I just turned the piece around and started from the other side.

Now let's talk blades. There's only one brand place:
Flying Dutchman from Mike's Workshop(no affilition with the guy other than we're both named Mike).
http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm (http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm)

Other brands are not bad, but the price and selection are by far the deciding factors.

Oh and only buy pinless blades.

[Jim Finn]

I have a 20" Hegner, a 25" Hegner and a 16" Jet and find that I can do all of my work with the 16" saw. I leave the 25" saw set up at an angle to do inlays with. I have found a way to give any saw an unlimited throat. After installing the blade and before tensioning it I grab the blade near the clamps with two pliers, top and bottom, and twist the blade 90 degrees. I then tension this twisted blade and cut from the side of the saw. I have only had to do this once on the 20" saw but it works well for me this way when I need more throat.

[Jim Leslie]

Just got it home & it's still in the box. I'm glad I went with the 21" in the end. The larger model would have occupied too much of the limited shop space. And the 21" is heavy enough! Now to look at the Flying Dutchman blades. A dozen Olsen blades came with it so at least I can experiment for a while. One of my objectives is veneering and marquetry so no doubt some really thin blades will be one of my first purchases.
Jim: your idea of twisting the blade and cutting from the side makes me even more happy I went with the 21" version!
Thanks to all for the input.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jim,

My wife wanted to get into scroll sawing. We bought the 21 inch Excalibur. Though it's seen limited use, we have been happy with it. Good luck!

[Jim Leslie]

Thanks Ken; I got it all set up and running this evening but with limited success. I think that I have problems with my blade vs stock thickness. All I was able to get was a #5 and I'm trying to cut thin stock about 1/8" to 3/16". My guess is that there are not enough TPI so the work tends to lift off the table. It's going to take some getting used to. I think what I'll do is go to Lee Valley in town here on Monday and get a selection of blades. I am pleased with the machine quality though.

[Michael Moscicki]

I don't know how the work hold down is on the Excalibur, but on the DeWalt a lot of people don't use it. Are you using the hold down? Either way you need to apply some pressure to keep the work piece on the table. The blade, no matter the size, will lift the work piece.

[Jim Leslie]

Yes I was using the hold down, but tonight I had the thought of removing it too. Unless it is actually contacting the workpiece it does not do much but get in the way. It seems to be more of a guard mechanism than anything else and when I'm cutting small items, it prevents me from holding them down and therefore contributes to the piece lifting. It comes off in the morning!