Question about roundover router bit

[Bill Veselik]

Hey,
If I had a 1 inch block of wood and I'd like to use a roundover bit to make the block pretty close to round, would I need to use a 1" roundover bit? A half inch doesn't make it round enough. Thanks.

[Prashun Patel]

You need a roundover bit with a 1/2" radius. The caveat is this: when you roundover your fourth side, the surface against which the bearing rides will have been rounded over by the first pass. This will cause you to have a lip on the fourth side if you use the bearing. However, if you try to do this on a router table, the fourth side is hard to do because the bottom and fence faces are round and tricky to keep square.

There exist roundover bits with extended bearings that allow you to hand route that fourth side.

Good luck!!!

[Myk Rian]

The trick is to cut the stock longer than you need the dowel to be. That way you always have the corners to register against the fence and table.

272191

[glenn bradley]

Myk's describes the method I use and 1/2" roundover on each of the four corner's will yield a round piece. If that is not working, either the bit or stock is not accurately sized, you do not have a square reference surface as Myk describes or the feed path is being deviated. With all those elements in place you should do fine.

[Yonak Hawkins]

If 1/2"R bit doesn't make it round enough you have to adjust your depth of cut.

[Wade Lippman]

I wonder if you could use this.
http://www.acetoolonline.com/product-p/ama-51562.htm?utm_content=Amana51562BullNose11116Diame ter12Shank&gclid=CLOJ3Z-K-7kCFQto7AodzVcA2A&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=Amana51562BullNose11116Diameter12Shank&utm_campaign=googlebase&site=google_product_listing_ads

I bought one unused at an auction a few years ago for $5, but have never had occasion to use it.

[Myk Rian]

I wonder if you could use this.
Never tried it, Wade. Might work.
Trouble is, the top of the bit is proud of the fence. Would make it hard to run the stock through safely.
Unless you want a bullnose shape to your fingers. ;)

[Duane Meadows]

I wonder if you could use this.
http://www.acetoolonline.com/product-p/ama-51562.htm?utm_content=Amana51562BullNose11116Diame ter12Shank&gclid=CLOJ3Z-K-7kCFQto7AodzVcA2A&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=Amana51562BullNose11116Diameter12Shank&utm_campaign=googlebase&site=google_product_listing_ads

I bought one unused at an auction a few years ago for $5, but have never had occasion to use it.

I made a bunch of 5/8" dowels that way to replace stretchers on chairs, awhile ago. The setup needs to be quite precise, but it works very well. I don't have bull nose shaped fingers because of it, either A good push stick is needed though, as well as a couple of feather boards!

[Mike Cutler]

Are you trying to make a 1" dowel with a router?
If so, there is a different way that ensures the dowel is virtually, perfectly, round, using a router. The router is set into a dowel making jig.
Here is a link to show how one is basically made, and Hylton's Router Magic book has a more detailed construction.
Don't use a straight bit like the mag article does, use a small 1/2" bowl bit and you'll have very smooth surfaces.

http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=977

[Lee Schierer]

The trick is to cut the stock longer than you need the dowel to be. That way you always have the corners to register against the fence and table.

272191

Actually the trick is to rotate the piece so the freshly cut curved surface is up and against your fence as you make each pass. By doing this, your fourth cut will have a square edge against the table and also the fence. Using a feather board will hold your stock tight to the fence as you make each pass. Be sure to use a push stick to push the piece through the cutter. My push stick lays along the top surface about 8 inches so it holds the piece down and also keeps it from rolling as you finish off the end of the cut.

[Dave Richards]

I do something similar to what is shown in Mike's link but I use a 1/2" spiral upcut bit. I get very smooth results and I can make dowels any diameter for which I have a drill bit, Forstner bit, etc.

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4044/4550675295_ed947f80d7.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/8294157@N08/4550675295/)

This was a dowel I did as an example for someone. It is shown right out of the jig with no sanding or anything.