Setting up basement hand tool only shop

[Sean Weber]

I am about to start setting up a hand tool only shop in my basement. I know that noise will be a major issue that needs addressed. I have about a 9 x 12 space to work with. What are some good things to consider? Layout, storage, lighting etc....

Thanks,

Sean

[Hilton Ralphs]

Without knowing what you have, I reckon the first thing you should establish is what is the biggest/longest/tallest piece of furniture you can comfortably carry out into the fresh air.

We don't have basements here in South Africa so I'm not sure about ventilation and windows.

[Adam Cruea]

Surprisingly, noise in a hand-tool only shop really isn't a big deal in my experience. When it's there, it's generally constant noise that is easy to ignore (or so my wife says).

The big thing is having air flow to get the dust out of the filter either by filter or just exhaust. The temperature and environment will be fairly static temperature and humidity-wise as long as you don't have open vents.

The one thing besides air flow for me is lighting. I have an area that is approximately 10x10 with one dual-tube fluorescent light and while the light is enough overall, a single 48" fixture doesn't work well over a 6 foot long bench. I always have something in a shadow.

For layout, I have my bench in the middle of the area (3' x 6' bench) so I can walk all around it if I need to manipulate things, and my tools are up against the wall behind my face vice. There's also a 15" bandsaw (or maybe 14") and a drill press.

The space isn't really a problem; so I'll reiterate, it's the air flow and lighting you have to be worried about. Just because one fixture may light up the area doesn't mean it's good enough. I'd actually probably break the area into four smaller squares of 4.5'x6' and put a smaller light in the center of those areas with some natural-esque light for finishing since LED/fluorescent will end up washing out just about anything, but make sure you don't have *too* much light or it will over-exaggerate problems.

Just my $.02.

[Judson Green]

Yep to what's been said. My basement shop is about 14' x 20' I've got 6 4' fixtures hanging (one right over the bench), a desk light and another light and I'd still like to add another light or two.

And ventilation is kind of a problem for me. I run a dehumidifier about ¾ of the year and would like to keep air exchanges to a minimum but it gets kind of stale down there once in a while (noticed the other day that all my huff n puffing raised the RH level). And would prefer not to use stinky finishes down there. I did rig up a blower to the dryer vent, it helps.

I've had no complaints about noise but would like to find a quieter hammer/mallet. Was using a wood mallet, am using a nylon tipped one now. Seems quieter but I miss the larger strike surface of the wood mallet. Someone here mentioned using a rawhide or rubber mallet. Some loss of energy but quieter.

[Hilton Ralphs]

would like to find a quieter hammer/mallet

This is a decent hammer (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50229&cat=1,41504,43688)/mallet.

272115

[Judson Green]

This is a decent hammer (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50229&cat=1,41504,43688)/mallet.

272115

Hilton,

Is that quieter than a all wood mallet?

[paul cottingham]

I have one. It is not quieter than an all wooden mallet, but it is pretty quiet, especially for the power you can generate with it.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Hilton,

Is that quieter than a all wood mallet?

I have not tested it but I do know that a normal wooden mallet gives off that dwaaaaang sound whereas the Veritas mallet has the bronze casting which should dampen that sound.

I'll do a test.

[Bill McDermott]

Sean, Speaking as a pure hobbyist; when I had only a small part of the basement the biggest problem was working with long boards. The only power tool I was using then was a 14" bandsaw. That is a super useful tool that has a small footprint and can be rolled about as needed. Everything else either happened on the bench or, rarely, in the garage. What worked well for me was setting up so that the door could be open and effectively extend the space -- usually for infeed to the bandsaw. My bench was an L shape against the wall. The L was on the left-hand side, which effectively gave me a giant crochet against which to plane, etc.. Tool storage, shelves and cabinets were all on the wall above the bench. Make sure to keep things high enough to provide at the very least a foot of clearance above the bench, clear to the wall. I'm tall, but I made full use of the ceiling and joists. The overhead storage of materials and tools was unusual, but worked very well for me. I used the normal overhead fluorescents a desk lamp (bending, spring-loaded, spot style). That was a fun place to work because I was careful to keep projects small enough to fit on the bench. That meant getting more projects done. More space = bigger projects = long time to get them complete. Small can be good. Dust and noise just were not that big a deal working smaller projects with handtools on a benchtop. When the router did come out, I had a system with shower curtains that went up. Bill

[Christopher Charles]

I bought a wood is good mallet, primarily for the sound dampening, and have been pleased. Definitely quieter than a wooden mallet, but not magic either.

[David Weaver]

I also use a wood is good round mallet for the same reason. Pretty much for everything at this point.

[Chris Griggs]

If your at all possible paint or seal the concrete in some way. Having concrete grit everywhere (and it gets everywhere when you sweep) is a real PITA.

[Judson Green]

If your at all possible paint or seal the concrete in some way. Having concrete grit everywhere (and it gets everywhere when you sweep) is a real PITA.

Yes yes! And its prettier. Something to add to that. I did my best to fill every gap and crack I could find with "Great stuff" and then with caulk. Very small investment, takes some time and best to do before you've got a room full of stuff. Cuts down air exchanges and helps to keep the bugs out and dust in.

[Judson Green]

I also use a wood is good round mallet for the same reason. Pretty much for everything at this point.

David and Christopher

This ? 272131

[David Weaver]

Yes, but I use the next size up from that. Same thing, though. Turned some of my own mallets and hate to admit that I like it a lot better than I do my all wood mallets, regardless of noise.

[Judson Green]

Okay thanks. I remember Googling "quieter hammer" a few months ago... did not get what I was looking for.

[Andrae Covington]

I recommend taking a look at 'The Ultimate Hand Tool Shop' by Adam Cherubini (http://www.shopwoodworking.com/arts-mysteries-the-ultimate-hand-tool-shop). It was his 'Arts & Mysteries' column in Popular Woodworking #153 (February 2006). I don't think you have to follow every suggestion to the letter, but it's a good source for information about layout, storage, and lighting.

Anyway, some of my thoughts:

Lighting
Don't underestimate how much light you need; basements are dark. The nearest window in mine is a typical small basement window, on the north side, behind a rhododendron... effectively useless. I recommend both stationary and moveable lights.

Over my bench, I have three clamp work lights hanging from a joist. I bought the "brooder" ones that have two curved wires to help protect the bulb . Originally, I had three CFL 100-watt equivalent in "daylight" color temperature. After breaking one, I replaced it with a CFL 150-watt equivalent that has a more reddish cast. I prefer the daylight bulbs but some people don't like the blueish cast.

I cobbled together a three-legged stand to hold another clamp work light. This I can reposition as needed. Usually it is standing next to me on my off-hand side, pointing down at the work. Sometimes, as Cherubini recommends, I unplug the overhead lights and just use this one set low as a raking light.

Sometimes, this still isn't enough, or not enough in the right place. I would like to get some kind of articulating light that I could set on the workbench in front of me, pointing back towards me (but down towards the work) so that I do not shadow the work from the light. This would be for detail work like dovetails.

[B]Humidity and airflow
Most basements are damp to one degree or another. Without a dehumidifier, mine often reached 75%. This increases the chances of tools rusting and wood molding, plus it's not exactly the healthiest air to breathe. I run a dehumidifier on a timer (during off-peak rate hours), which keeps it around 50-55%.

I do use some small power tools, so dust collection and air filtering are a problem that may not affect you as much. Still, air exchange is important. Judson Green mentioned "stinky finishes" and this is an ongoing problem for me when I use smelly solvents or finishes, they just linger on and on. In warm-ish weather I open the little basement windows and run a box fan if needed.

Several people recommended painting the walls. Mine were already painted, though long ago. It looks nicer, and it does reduce concrete crumbling and moisture somewhat (particularly if you use Drylok or similar). But my basement suffers from chronic efflorescence (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Efflorescence), so I get the crumbly powder that I have to clean up anyway. Paint by itself won't entirely prevent moisture from seeping through the concrete.

Layout and Storage
My bench is against a wall, roughly in the middle, so I have room on either end. Some people prefer to be able to walk all around their workbench. Because of the uneven floor, I have some pretty significant shims under the legs to make the top level.

I have a rubber mat in front of the workbench to help cushion my feet from the concrete. I just wish it was thicker (it's about 1/2" I think, maybe 3/8") and long enough to span the entire workbench front.

I use a tool chest, and it sits to the right of the workbench. It has casters but I don't move it very often. In my profile pic it is perpendicular to the bench, pulled in close, but that was just to frame the photo. In practice it sits along the same wall, a foot or two from the bench. I do not have an end vise so I don't need to stand at that end of the bench as most people do. If I did, I would move the tool chest out of the way. You could hang a wall chest from the sillplate and/or joists, but otherwise wall storage would probably require building a stud wall.

I built a lumber rack that's about six feet high. Like hanging cabinets, the problem with lumber racks in concrete basements is how to secure them to structure. Once you load them up they are very heavy, and you don't want all that to come crashing down on you. This is especially a concern in earthquake-prone areas. Getting back to the humidity issue, it is important to sticker the wood for proper air flow. This reduces how much wood you can store in the rack. Depending on how much wood you expect to hoard (and how much room you have), a rolling rack may suffice, or maybe you just buy wood for each project as needed. Besides the rack, I also use some plastic bins for offcuts.

It's nice to have some flexible open space behind or beside the bench, where you can temporarily set up sawbenches or sawhorses, or keep a larger piece of furniture as you work on parts and pieces at the bench.

I have a separate sharpening table next to the utility sink, but that's a relative luxury. It does keep the metal filings away from the workbench.

[steven c newman]

Pardon the fuzzy photos, but this is a look at what I have in a basement shop272133272134272135272136don't forget that there is plenty of storage right over head.272137272138just add a nail,hook,screw, or peg wherever you need.

[Jim Matthews]

I echo some of the sentiments above, and would like to explain inexpensive ways to manage them.

Get your workspace slightly raised, if possible.
I used an underlayment product with heavy rubber mats on top of that.

The rubber mats are commonly used in horse stalls, hockey rinks and industrial settings.
There's a softer mat directly in front of my bench where I stand.

My bench is in the middle of the space, that way I can use all sides.
It's not a big bench, and need not be.

If you can't get a piece of lumber into your shop (due to the length),
neither can you handle pieces of furniture that size.

I build modular designs, to be assembled in their final place.

I think having a bench too small is better than having a bench that you can't get around easily.

I use spot lighting, designed for all-weather resistance - in a hard plastic case.
They have daylight balanced bulbs installed. Two on each side of the bench point down toward the benchtop.

I intend to put gator board panels up on the ceiling to bounce more light down into the workspace.
There are some notably dark places in my shop, including where I store my tools underneath the bench.

If I drop something in the pile of shavings (almost as deep as Steven's - WoW.)
I need a flashlight to fish things out.

I have a standard air filter installed overhead, with an additional Air Conditioner filter strapped to the front.
When it looks dusty, it goes and a fresh one gets strapped on.

That provides filtration - not ventilation.

********

If you store wood in your basement - get it off the floor and under some kind of cover if a water pipe fails.
DAMHIKT

[Jim Koepke]

ardon the fuzzy photos, but this is a look at what I have in a basement shop

I will save these pictures for the next time someone mentions how messy my shop looks. :D

jtk

[Sean Weber]

Great advice with door location! Thanks!

[Brian Holcombe]

Paint the walls white, prepare efficient storage for wood and tools. I used my bench in the center and have space around it on all sides. Prepare efficient dust extraction and allow for proper airflow through your shop. A good turnover in your air will help your shop to be very nice to work in.

I keep my shop super clean.

working on lighting as well, I have a Tolomeo lamp in my study that I love for reading, so I think I may buy another for my shop to compliment overhead lights. I'll probably get one with a clamp base and just move it around the shop.

[Sean Weber]

Do you like the tool chest? I seem to lean towards a wall hung cabinet to store my handtools but I would like your thoughts....also thanks for all the advice much appreciated.

[Jim Koepke]

Sean,

I must be slipping... Welcome to the Creek. Your profile has no indication of where you call home.

Good luck with setting up shop.

If you are in the Pacific Northwest and need help, let me know.

jtk

[John Powers]

don't forget that your ceiling is for storage. and when you start a thread on your basement shop expect it to get sidetracked onto someone else's mallet discussion. hey, let's talk hand grinders, very quiet and utterly useless.

[Hilton Ralphs]

I built a lumber rack that's about six feet high. Like hanging cabinets, the problem with lumber racks in concrete basements is how to secure them to structure.


Where I live we only build houses out of bricks and mortar with concrete floors, even if it's a double story. Even if you have to hang up a picture you need to whip out the corded hammer drill with the masonry bit to drill holes. Attaching a lumber rack against a concrete wall to me seems to be the most stable way to do it. Just use rawl bolts with plugs.

[bridger berdel]

are you sharing the basement with a furnace or waterheater or other appliance that contains flame? if so you need to control your dust and monitor for carbon monoxide.

[Matthew N. Masail]

I'm in a similar boat with you.... since your doing hand tools only you have a lot of free space usually taken by a bandsaw and such.. this is what I've come up with so far as the most comfortable (still in the making but I tried several setups):


1. have the bench AWAY from the wall. giving you full access and good space.
2. on the wall behind the bench a large open style tool cabinet with a modular french cleat hanging area can hold a LOT of tools.
3. the wall space under the tool cabinet is great for holding you shooting boards and such, again with french cleats.
3. the bench itself.... the base should be a storage unit - drawers and what not. a sliding dead man in front of the drawers will allow full facility.

[Jim Koepke]

the bench itself.... the base should be a storage unit - drawers and what not. a sliding dead man in front of the drawers will allow full facility.

I have gone back and forth on this.

Using holdfasts requires space between the bench top and what ever is below. I like the idea of a bin to hold clamps and other items often used on the bench top as opposed to tool storage. A lot of shavings accumulate below the bench top.

jtk

[Hilton Ralphs]

Using holdfasts requires space between the bench top and what ever is below. I like the idea of a bin to hold clamps and other items often used on the bench top as opposed to tool storage. A lot of shavings accumulate below the bench top.


So maybe the answer is a shelf below the top that leaves enough room above for holdfasts and clamps. Perhaps hinged on the front edge leaving the back edge loose. If the top surface of this shelf is made from something slippery like Melamine or Formica, then it won't take much effort to lift up the back edge and bang the debris towards the front and off the bench.

Below that, fill the space with drawers or bench hooks etc.

[Sean Weber]

are you sharing the basement with a furnace or waterheater or other appliance that contains flame? if so you need to control your dust and monitor for carbon monoxide.

Yes, I will be. I am going to wall off my shop area to help contain the dust and noise. I also am going to wall off where the house mechanical equipment is making each there own room with the rest of the open basement in between.

[Sean Weber]

Sean,

I must be slipping... Welcome to the Creek. Your profile has no indication of where you call home.

Good luck with setting up shop.

If you are in the Pacific Northwest and need help, let me know.

jtk


Thanks for the offer, but Im little ways from there...Columbus Ohio

[steven c newman]

Or, about 70 miles from my basement shop. Hang a left after Mad River Mountain Ski resort, on either County Road 10, or St Rt. 540. Be here all day and tomorrow too.

[Judson Green]

Before you start walling off furnaces and other check out the building codes for your area and keep in mind how you might get a new furnace or whatever in to this area. And perform maintenance.

[Andrae Covington]

Do you like the tool chest? I seem to lean towards a wall hung cabinet to store my handtools but I would like your thoughts....also thanks for all the advice much appreciated.

The tool chest works for me, but I wouldn't begrudge anyone a cabinet. There is an appeal to having everything at eye level.

[Jim Koepke]

Another thing to consider is as my age advances, my back is not as comfortable with lifting up tools or heavy items as it was years ago.

Keep the light things low and the heavier items at an easy on the back height.

That is the primary reason the "Anarchist's Tool Chest," though a brilliant storage solution, isn't on my to do list.

If one works a lot of panels or wide boards, access to under bench storage may be impaired at times.

We each have our own work style, work habits and project demands in play to form what is an optimum shop set up for our own use.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Also be aware that gas furnaces need an air supply. Some have experienced problems with exhaust fans pulling fumes down through flues and other vents needed for gas appliances.

jtk

[Malcolm Schweizer]

For lighting, I recommend flourescent mixed with incandescent. The two combined give a light very close to daylight. In art class we used this lighting when I took an upper level color mixing class where we had to mix 6000 paint chips over the course of the semester. The instructor was picky about lighting and even what brand of bulbs she would use.

[Sean Weber]

Or, about 70 miles from my basement shop. Hang a left after Mad River Mountain Ski resort, on either County Road 10, or St Rt. 540. Be here all day and tomorrow too.
I enjoy some good trout fishing right in that area

[Sean Weber]

Also be aware that gas furnaces need an air supply. Some have experienced problems with exhaust fans pulling fumes down through flues and other vents needed for gas appliances.

jtk


The furnaces aspect I will be ok because I have hvac technicians in my family so they won't let me do anything I shouldn't

[Mark Dorman]

I put insulation blankets around the outside walls, not sure how well they insulate but the reflective quality is great.
i also made a folding lumber rack that I will probably never have empty and folded up. Here is a picture right after I made the lumber rack and rearranged my shop. That's the second time my floor has been that clean in three years. Shop is about 12' x12' .

[Jim Koepke]

In art class we used this lighting when I took an upper level color mixing class where we had to mix 6000 paint chips over the course of the semester.

This reminds me of my days as a silkscreen printer about 40 years ago. We would match the color next to the window for natural light, under incandescent, fluorescent and mixed lighting. They had to stay matched under all conditions before we would go with it.

jtk