Coat/hat peg racks

[Rich Fennessey]

I've been getting some good response from my latest product. I have a standard template for the holes and plaque and then cut different graphic designs. I have 4 designs so far and I tried four types of wood, maple, oak, poplar, and pine. Maple by far seems to have the superior carving and doesn't bleed the paint via its grains. The board is 22" x 5 1/4" x 3/4" and I use keyholes in the back. I use a satin polyurethane. It takes 2 or 3 days to make since you have to let the paint, polyurethane, and peg glue dry till you do the next step. It is better to do several at a time to be efficient.

The graphics are generally cut .1" deep using a 1/8" endmill and edged with a 60 deg Vbit. The WELCOME sign is a .25" deep Vcarve with a 90 deg Vbit.

I use black house paint, let it dry, and then coat the paint and wood with polyurethane. That's what gives the paint its shine. Best seller so far has been the stagecoach which was the first one I made.

I purchased the CNC ready graphics. The stagecoach came from signtorch.com and the bear/forest and lighthouse came from dxfgraphics.net.

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[gary l roberts]

Nice project idea, and just in time for XMAS gifts. For the family who has almost everything.

[Roy Nielsen]

Rich,

Nice projects. Can't wait to get my machine back in place and running again. It's been inactive since I bought a laser engraver.

I haven't tried it myself, but I've seen many people say to first put down a coat or two of shellac to avoid the paint from bleeding.

[bobby milam]

Very nice. Thanks for the link for some files. I've been looking for a few that they offer.

Rich, if you want to use shellac to avoid bleeding I believe that it has to be the dewaxed shellac.

[Bruce Page]

Those look great Rich. I wonder if a coat of shellac prior to painting would stop the bleeding.

[Rich Fennessey]

Thanks for the compliments. I'll keep the shellac in mind. First, sticking with regular maple seems to mitigate most of the bleeding. I have some pine plaques that I have put polyurethane on already for another product, but haven't cut and painted yet, so I'll see how that works. I'm not sure how shellac and then a coat of polyurethane would work.

[Bruce Page]

The nice thing about shellac is that it dries in minutes and would be easy to sand off with your ROS prior to the final coat of poly.
The big box stores sell Zinsser shellac in spray, or out of the can brush on.

Just thinking out loud..

[Rich Fennessey]

Keep thinking out loud. Wood finishes aren't my expertise, so sounds like a decent idea.

[Roy Harding]

Dewaxed shellac works just fine for this purpose. I mix my own for other finishing tasks, and usually have some on hand, but the Zinsser product should work just fine.

It dries FAST, and is easily sanded - it won't interfere with a poly top coat. I use shellac for the same purpose when using coloured epoxy to fill inlays carved with my CNC - it works well for that purpose as well.

When using it on a very porous wood species (pine, cedar, oak, and the like) you may need to apply two coats to stop the paint from bleeding - but for maple, one coat should be sufficient.

Nice work, BTW