cuting router table for router plate.

[Anthony Diodati]

This looks like a pretty good way to go about it, but what am I missing?
Why do you have to have the hardboard glued on top of the ply wood?
http://www.shopnotes.com/files/issues/100/6-step-router-plate-installation.pdf

[Myk Rian]

So it doesn't move while routing, thus messing everything up.

[Adam Diethrich]

Maybe the hardboard glued to the plywood is simply giving you a nice flat reference surface (flatter than the ply?) for the router to ride on.
I simply used an MDF template with carpet tape.

A.W.D.


This looks like a pretty good way to go about it, but what am I missing?
Why do you have to have the hardboard glued on top of the ply wood?
http://www.shopnotes.com/files/issues/100/6-step-router-plate-installation.pdf

[Michael W. Clark]

It looks like it may be due to the length of the bit. If the guide strips are too thin, the bearing has nothing to register against. If the bit you are using is short enough, then you do not necessarily need the thicker guide strips.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would agree. Using a dado clean out bit, which is very short, would eliminate the need for the hardboard atop your plywood.

Doc

[HANK METZ]

You might find this to be of interest too.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5I03sQy2hsg

[Anthony Diodati]

It looks like it may be due to the length of the bit. If the guide strips are too thin, the bearing has nothing to register against. If the bit you are using is short enough, then you do not necessarily need the thicker guide strips.

I think that might be the reason.

[Greg Hines, MD]

You might find this to be of interest too.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5I03sQy2hsg

Very Slick.

Doc

[Joe Scharle]

I do mine just like Hank...

[Anthony Diodati]

Yeah, I got some guides made up, I still need to see what kind of router bits I have, If I have a short one.
Would you use a 1/2" bit?

[Steve Kohn]

You really want to match the radius of your plate with the router bit. I believe that the corners of most plates are 1/2 inch.

[Anthony Diodati]

OK Thanks, I did not have one, I ordered one from MLCS, a 1/2" dia, 3/8" cut length. So the 3/4 guide boards I have should be thick enough.
$13.00 with free shipping.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Typically, hardboard has a smoother finish and thus less friction. Thus your router will glide over it easier.

[william watts]

The text in the link states "Note: Most pattern bits will require 1"-thick strips. So the 3/4" ply and the 1/4" hard board = 1" in addition to what Ken said it seems you need that thickness to allow most router bits to cut to correct depth.

[Anthony Diodati]

OK thanks all, I will let you know how it works out when I get the new router bit.

[glenn bradley]

One gotcha is failing to use a bit with the proper diameter to fit the radii of your plate's corners. I used a Forster bit instead of a hole saw and went just a bit deeper than the router plate was thick using assembled MDF strips with pocket-holes for the template. I then routed to the depth of the Forstner hole. I then drilled four more 3/8" holes about 3/4" in from the corners and used a jig saw to cut out the hole. This left the corners solid and part of the rabbeted shelf for the plate to drop into. I added a bit of CA glue to the locations where the plate levelers would press.

[Alan Schaffter]

You are all doing it the hard way for something you may only do once in 10 - 15 years!

Take some strips of hardboard or MDF and square one end of each- they don't need to be any special length but should be longer than the sides of the plate. Stagger them around the plate like one suggestion here. You don't need pocket screws, butt joints glued with yellow glue or 5 min. epoxy will be plenty secure for what you plan to do.

Mix a small amount of autobody filler (Bondo) and fill in the corner voids (be sure to wax the corners of the plate first). When the filler has hardened in about 5 min. pop out the plate and clean up the surface- you will have a perfect template. Cut a rough opening in your router table, attach the template with double stick tape, and open the hole to the proper size with a flush trim bit with bearing- any size will do as long as the radius is equal to, or smaller than the radius of the plate. You don't need a special sized drill or flush trim bit. This method also works if you want to leave a rabbetted ledge to support the plate.

I submitted this tip to WWJ who published it in Dec 2010.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/Router_plate_template.jpg

[Adam Diethrich]

Yes, this!

Only thing I did different is to simply attach the four strips to the table surface with a good carpet tape. No glue, not nothing else.
Also, I simply used the appropriate sized (diameter) top bearing bit to match my plate.

Very simply, just go slow and lay it out carefully - then cut it out.

A.W.D.


You are all doing it the hard way for something you may only do once in 10 - 15 years!

Take some strips of hardboard or MDF and square one end of each- they don't need to be any special length but should be longer than the sides of the plate. Stagger them around the plate like one suggestion here. You don't need pocket screws, butt joints glued with yellow glue or 5 min. epoxy will be plenty secure for what you plan to do.

Mix a small amount of autobody filler (Bondo) and fill in the corner voids (be sure to wax the corners of the plate first). When the filler has hardened in about 5 min. pop out the plate and clean up the surface- you will have a perfect template. Cut a rough opening in your router table, attach the template with double stick tape, and open the hole to the proper size with a flush trim bit with bearing- any size will do as long as the radius is equal to, or smaller than the radius of the plate. You don't need a special sized drill or flush trim bit. This method also works if you want to leave a rabbetted ledge to support the plate.

I submitted this tip to WWJ who published it in Dec 2010.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/Router_plate_template.jpg

[Anthony Diodati]

Yeah, I guess some guys are routing all the way through, and then attaching wood strips to hold the plate up to the proper level.

[Anthony Diodati]

Here is something too, do you think the best place for the plate is in the center, or more towards the back?

[glenn bradley]

This will get a lot of answers depending on the type of fence and how people use their router tables. I have a fence that slides in slots and I use the table a lot. Mine is 24 x 32 with the bit positioned at about center. If the bit is too far back you can't get your fence far enough away for some tasks. If it is too far forward, featherboards and other miter-slot dependent jigs become a problem. I did position the miter-slot the same distance from the bit as my tablesaw miter-slot is from the blade. This makes most jigs and fixtures transportable.

[Anthony Diodati]

So the 1/2" bit was perfect. Should have went with a 1/2" cut length, as I had to stick out the shank more than I wanted to.
Did not have to drill the corners or anything.
I am thinking I should put some WB poly I have on the exposed MDF.
I put the plate right in the center.