What would be the most useful next tool...

[Tony Wilkins]

I've saved up a little bit of money ($200 give or take a couple of bucks) to buy another tool. I'm wondering if any of the things I'm considering are worth spending it on.

1. a Chris Vesper brass 7" try square. I have a Starrett 12" combination square and a tiny Matsui (IIRC) metal try square. The fact that his are calibrated so precisely appeals to me.

2. an LV/Wenzloff or LN cross cut panel saw. My only non-back saw for cross cuts is a 26" Disston D8.

3. save up a little more and get a Bad Axe 16" hybrid filed tenon saw to go with my 12" hybrid filed DT/carcass saw (I know there are cheaper saws than BA but I'm addicted to them lol)

4. a water stone higher than the 6,000 grit King water stone that is my current finest

5. a block plane (LV DX60) - I currently use a little 48mm kanna that seems to work pretty well in this role.

So, one of these options, something else, or none of the above. What would be the wisest tool investment?

[Adam Cruea]

I would personally go with 3. I have a BA 16" X and Rip and they are *nice* for those deep cuts and general sizing/non-rough cuts.

I actually use my 16" x-cut for cross-cutting a lot more than panel saw. My panel saws are used exclusively for cutting rough stock up. Once they've been somewhat sized to work with, I start whipping out the BA saws or bandsaw.

Or I would start looking at the Sigma set Stu offers from Tools from Japan for total sharpening.

Just my $.02.

[Jim Koepke]

1) Some of my squares do not agree. Usually this disagreement is less than 0.005" over a 6" line. A precision square is nice for testing the others, but a sharp knife and a straight board is good enough for most woodworking.

2) Good back saws for designed for the different tasks in the shop are essential. This would be my choice.

3) See comment #2.

4) Good stones for sharpening are another essential shop accessory.

5) The DX60 is a very tempting treat for the shop. If you are low on block planes, this would be a great investment.

It really comes down to which choice will help you in the pursuit of better woodworking.

jtk

[Chris Griggs]

1) Skip this. You already have a square that works. If you want something smaller get a little double square. Not that it wouldn't be nice to have, but it doesn't sound like you need it.

2)Skip this. Fine xcut saws can be very handy, but are not essential unless you are working thin stock. You'll probably end up planing the end grain regardless

3) Probably my top pick for what you listed. If you have no largish backsaws this is probably a great option. Your 12" can certainly do frame&panel size tenon work but if you want to build some tables and such soon with 2-3" wide tenons a large back saw will be very nice to have.

4) Skip it for now. If you want something finer use some type of honing compound for now.

5) Would be very nice to have, but not required, especially since you have a kanna that you enjoy using for these types of tasks.

Other thoughts: I don't remember what you have...seems like your always planning a new purchase :). Do you have any type of rabbeting plane, be it rabbet block, shoulder, router plane, or fillester? Something that can work all the way into to and edge is pretty darn handy.

What do you want to build next? What tasks are you concerned will be challenging with what you currently have? When I'm trying to decide what to buy next I really try to think through what I want to build in the next few months and what will make it possible/easier/better/faster/more enjoyable.

[Tony Wilkins]

Couple of questions:

Are there any differences in working with a try square than a combination square?

The accessories like the chamfer guide from LV don't work on the dx/nx block planes, correct?

Thanks for all the input so far :)

[Chris Griggs]

Couple of questions:

Are there any differences in working with a try square than a combination square?

The accessories like the chamfer guide from LV don't work on the dx/nx block planes, correct?

Thanks for all the input so far :)

Correct about the accessories. They only fit the original Veritas block. Honestly, I wouldn't get too wrapped up about the accesories. I know people love them, and I bought the older style Veritas LAPB thinking I would get them, but I never did. Still have the plane and love it, but I'm happy just using it as a block (though I admit that I'm often tempted by the dx60). If you want a block plane get the one that looks the best to you in terms of comfort and usability...those should be your first considerations. A block plane is tool that you want to feel like its a part of you. You want it to be something that you'll pick up for all sorts of things. And you want it to just flat out be nice to use.

As far as the try square those. Maybe a little nicer to hold. A little more solid feeling. I pretty much just really on my combo and double squares. then again I've never owned a REALLY nice try square, so I'm hesitant to comment much here.

[Tony Wilkins]

Yep, don't have many hobbies I'm spending on right now so I can get tools without too long of saving.

I am pretty well set up on bench planes; I have (all LV) a 4 1/2, 5 1/4, LA jointer, and an OS coffin smoother.

I used a gift not long ago to purchase a pretty good selection of joinery planes: LV small plow, moving fillister, router plane, medium shoulder plane.

I've just got (today) a full set of LN chisels that I had exchanged for a plane I'd gotten from them.

What do you want to build next? I'm just about to finish the BC moxon vise and then return to my shaker side table; also have the wood set aside for a saw bench (out of Fidgens new book). Wife has already asked for a dining table after we move and for the card catalog out of Fidgen's new book. I will probably work on some of the projects out of Fidgen's first book along the way.

What tasks are you concerned will be challenging with what you currently have? I'd like to increase the accuracy of my joinery; I know practice makes better but if a better square would help was behind my thinking for #1. Ripping especially but wielding those 26" saws is pretty taxing on my broken body. Beyond that I'm doing pretty well with what I have but there are a few new challenges in projects ahead.

When I'm trying to decide what to buy next I really try to think through what I want to build in the next few months and what will make it possible/easier/better/faster/more enjoyable. ​That's what I'm trying to do in my bumbling, brain damaged, inexperienced way.

[Chris Griggs]

Man you've really set yourself up well. Given what you just said, I'd say get the tenon saw. That will be very useful for that dining table your wife wants. To my eye, it seems to be the most "needed" missing piece for your upcoming projects. Plus since you are getting it hybrid filed it will be very nice for those dialed in type xcuts that you were thinking you might want a panel saw for, in addition to ripping dining table tenons.

[Tony Wilkins]

Man you've really set yourself up well. Given what you just said, I'd say a larger tenon saw. That will be very useful for that dining table your wife wants. To my eye, it seems to be the most "needed" missing piece for your upcoming projects.

Also want to build a workbench after we move so that's another factor in favor of the bigger back saw. Going to get up with Mark Harrell and see what he suggests; any suggestions for the back saw?

[Chris Griggs]

Either 14" or 16" is fine. Keep in mind a 16" saw feels a good bit larger than a 14" despite being only 2" longer. This can be good or bad. 16" will require less downward force from you while ripping big tenons. 14" will probably be a bit easier to start and to keep aligned while starting, but may require you to provide a little additional downward force on larger tenons. Some people find that higher center of gravity on the big saws makes it easier to sense plumb some people feel that it makes them harder to wield. I use a 14" but can't say I have a strong preference one way or the other. See what Mark says, and take some time in the shop with the saws you already have to try and get a sense of what you might prefer for size. I'd lean towards the 16" for you just because between it and your 12" you'll pretty be setup to span almost all sizes of work, but just make sure a saw that size is something you'll be comfortable wielding. For the workbench you'll prefer the 16" but that's only one project so think about what will be more ideal the rest of the time. Really, both 14" and 16" make for a nice all around tenons saw so despite all I just said above, don't overthink it......errrr, just do what Mark says.

[Tony Wilkins]

Follow what your saying Chris. My hope, as time goes along, it to get dedicated rip saws in 10" DT and maybe 16" or 18" tenon and get a dedicated cross cut in the 14". Good Lord, these things are like potato chips for me. Just want all the pretty combos of backs and handles ;)

[Tony Wilkins]

One more future project I'd like to try to tackle. I want to try the Roubo bookstands that Roy Underhill did a season or two ago. Think they'd make great Christmas presents for folks that I know.

[Chris Griggs]

Follow what your saying Chris. My hope, as time goes along, it to get dedicated rip saws in 10" DT and maybe 16" or 18" tenon and get a dedicated cross cut in the 14". Good Lord, these things are like potato chips for me. Just want all the pretty combos of backs and handles ;)

Sounds like a good plan to me. If thats your plan it to some extent matters even less which you choose. Whatever you get will help you figure out what you like and then later on when you buy more saws you can either keep the first couple filed hyrbid or get them refiled as a dedicated xcut or rip. Can't really lose whichever way you go.

[Jim Matthews]

None of the above.

Buy the Ron Bontz backsaw listed in our own classified section,
before I weaken and take it for my own.

[Chris Griggs]

None of the above.

Buy the Ron Bontz backsaw listed in our own classified section,
before I weaken and take it for my own.

Didn't Hilton grab that already?

I guess it depends whether or not the seller is willing to ship to South Africa.

[Jacob Nothstine]

Millers Falls Langdon Mitre Box or one just as nice, send the saw out to be sharpened. I use my Mitre box all the time. I use it so much I had to use the dust collector the other day to clean the table off around it.

[Winton Applegate]

Books, DVDs or a class with a pro.
Or if you don't already have them all of the large Fine Woodworking magazines and as many past that as you can afford.
does that surprise you ?
Once there then you will be telling us which tool to buy next.

If you already have a load of those then . . .
how about a 48 inch Starrett straight edge. I sure use the heck out of mine.
Got one ? Well that just leaves buying wood.

enjoy what ever you wind up getting.

[Tony Wilkins]

I decided on the tenon saw. Just put a deposit down with Mark Harrell on a 16" filed for a hybrid cut. I'm going to look at our own Ron Bontz' saws for the future.

[Chris Griggs]

I decided on the tenon saw. Just put a deposit down with Mark Harrell on a 16" filed for a hybrid cut. I'm going to look at our own Ron Bontz' saws for the future.

Cool! What did you go with for back/nuts/handle, etc?

[Hilton Ralphs]

Cool! What did you go with for back/nuts/handle, etc?

Good question. I always marvel at the different bling one can order for these cool saws. One day when I'm big.........

[Chris Griggs]

Good question. I always marvel at the different bling one can order for these cool saws. One day when I'm big.........

Yeah you gotta give Mark credit. Not only is a he a fantastic saw maker, but his business and marketing skills are pretty brilliant. He uses words like "saw bling", offers a bunch of cool customizations, and give his saws names like Doc Holiday.

As far as boutique tool makers go, I'd say his business sense is second to none.

[Tony Wilkins]

I got a 16" tenon saw filed hybrid with the Pennsylvania Fiddleback Maple handle and black oxided back and nuts. Almost went with the black pearl but didn't.

[Chris Griggs]

Wow. I haven't looked at that site in a while. I didn't realize he had so many handle species options now. He's really expanded...business must be booming. That'll be a cool saw.

[Adam Cruea]

I wish he'd have come out with the polished nickel backs earlier, but hey. . .it's not like the saws I have are annoying to look at for me. Stainless back is rip, nickel-blue back is x-cut, copper back is hybrid for me.

Good choice on the saw. I wish I would have had my 16" tenon saws when I made my bench, but I made do with the Veritas saws I had and a little chisel ingenuity to knock out the cheeks.

[Prashun Patel]

Sounds like you need some kind of joinery saw, like a tenon or dt saw.

If you're unhappy with your block, I'd look first at the LN102, Veritas Apron (or the LN/LV adjustable blocks). If I had to have only one plane, it'd be one of these two.

Freehanding an accurate chamfer isn't nearly as hard to do as cutting perfect tenons/dovetails; I'd spend first on precision saws.

[Hilton Ralphs]

I wish he'd have come out with the polished nickel backs earlier

Look, you could always opt for the Silver Side Up polished back but the reality is that other options are available Here and Now. I think if Mark were to bring out a new saw with multiple medallions and call it the Three-Sided Coin, we would have a winner for All the Right Reasons, especially if you are a Hesher from the Deep South who will appreciate this Dark Horse.

The State of his backlog certainly Curbs potential profits further down The Long Road.

Work that out Creekers!

[Chris Griggs]

Work that out Creekers!

Google worked it out for me. Also, Nickleback sucks!

(Except for that "Rockstar" song. That's kinda a fun song..not really a good song, but I like it....but everything else sucks)

:p

[Adam Cruea]

Google worked it out for me. Also, Nickleback sucks!

(Except for that "Rockstar" song. That's kinda a fun song..not really a good song, but I like it....but everything else sucks)

:p

Thank you for saying what I would have said, just in an eloquent manner.

My method of speech is more along the Texas metal line, not soft Canadian pop. :p

[Chuck Nickerson]

The backsaw gap from 12" to 16" is real; they feel quite different. (Says the man with 9", 12", 14", 16", and 20" backsaws, rip and x-cut).

My LN 20" 12tpi x-cut is also used, but not as frequently.

[Noah Wagener]

have you seen the skewed block plane form Lee Valley? can plane rabbetts.

[John Sanford]

Given your future intentions, I would have suggested a Knew Concepts saw. Aside from that, if you don't have any drilling solutions, I'd go that direction. Finally, of your list, the DX60 would be top, then one of the saws. Of course, all this is moot until the next "what next". :D