Show me your plywood cutting tables (please)!

[Jason White]

I need to build a fold-up table for cutting 4x8 sheets of plywood into smaller pieces with my Festool track saw.

I need it to be lightweight, portable, flat, cheap to build, and have a sacrificial top. Don't need all the holes and fancy aluminum parts like a Festool MFT (multi-function table) does, as I will only be using this to cut plywood -- mostly outside in the driveway because my shop is very small.

I'm really sick of using sawhorses & 2x4's, hollow core doors, rigid foam on the floor, etc. I want something much more elegant, lightweight, and handy.

Would greatly appreciate pictures of anything you've built that matches what I'm describing.

Thanks so much!!

- Jason

[Rick Potter]

Jason,

I realize my plan uses two or more of your don'ts, but here it is anyway. Same situation, don't want to use up room for a permanent cutting table, probably use it outside, track saw.

I haven't done it yet, but my plan is to get a pair of used bi-fold closet doors from the local Habitat ReStore for about $10, take off the hardware and lay them across my plastic sawhorses, WITH A GAP IN THE MIDDLE. I want to situate the cut in the gap with no sacrificial top since it's outside. Since these are hollow core, they are light, and at 16" or so wide, fairly easy to store, and if properly placed should hold up both sides of the cut.

Sorry, elegant....no, but simple and handy....yes.

Rick Potter

[Von Bickley]

Sorry...... I can't help you..... I'm just a sawhorse guy.

[Jason White]

Have already done the hollow-core door thing. No thanks! ;)

After awhile they start to sag, throwing off the accuracy of your cuts, and eventually they just fall apart.


Jason,

I realize my plan uses two or more of your don'ts, but here it is anyway. Same situation, don't want to use up room for a permanent cutting table, probably use it outside, track saw.

I haven't done it yet, but my plan is to get a pair of used bi-fold closet doors from the local Habitat ReStore for about $10, take off the hardware and lay them across my plastic sawhorses, with a gap in the middle. I want to situate the cut in the gap with no sacrificial top since it's outside. Since these are hollow core, they are light, and at 16" or so wide, fairly easy to store, and if properly placed should hold up both sides of the cut.

Sorry, elegant....no, but simple and handy....yes.

Rick Potter

[Jamie Buxton]

I process a lot of plywood with a track saw. I don't have a big table like you're thinking, because it would eat too much space to store. I use three or four sawhorses. They're each equipped with a wood U-channel that fits over the top of the sawhorse. It is sacrificial. That is, it gets cut by the tip of the blade. When the U-channels gets too beat up, I make new ones. All the sawhorses fold up, so they store in a small space. Three horses are sufficient if I'm just ripping. Four are usually necessary for cross-cutting.

[Mac McQuinn]

271884

Here's a lightweight (25lbs give or take) folding table I built last year, easy to transport, very stiff and strong.
Plans came from older issue of "Shop Notes".
Mac

[Jason White]

That looks great! I'd be afraid to cut plywood on it because it's so pretty. ;)


271884

Here's a lightweight (25lbs give or take) folding table I built last year, easy to transport, very stiff and strong.
Plans came from older issue of "Shop Notes".
Mac

[Sam Murdoch]

Check this out as an option - http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2011/09/09/the-ultimate-work-bench/

[Ray Newman]

Sam M: thn aks for that link! An outstanding design.

[bobby milam]

I found one that was pretty simple to put together in the driveway much like the 1st video link I am giving but now I can't locate it. Here are 2 videos that will give you some ideas.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMmFEfXkeyc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bpra92hsOFY

[Jason White]

Nice, but total overkill. I just need to cut plywood with my track saw.



Check this out as an option - http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2011/09/09/the-ultimate-work-bench/

[Robert Delhommer Sr]

I still like 2 saw horses and 2" x 4". Cheap, easy, dependable & does not require much storage space. :)

[John Huds0n]

I still like 2 saw horses and 2" x 4". Cheap, easy, dependable & does not require much storage space. :)

Yep
271901

[Steve Kohn]

Yep
271901

This is what I did except instead of 2X4's I cut 4 inch high strips of 3/4 plywood. These were then half-lapped to provide the sacrificial surface. It was surprising strong, lightweight, and easy to break down and store. Cheap too!

[George Bokros]

Jason,

I realize my plan uses two or more of your don'ts, but here it is anyway. Same situation, don't want to use up room for a permanent cutting table, probably use it outside, track saw.

I haven't done it yet, but my plan is to get a pair of used bi-fold closet doors from the local Habitat ReStore for about $10, take off the hardware and lay them across my plastic sawhorses, WITH A GAP IN THE MIDDLE. I want to situate the cut in the gap with no sacrificial top since it's outside. Since these are hollow core, they are light, and at 16" or so wide, fairly easy to store, and if properly placed should hold up both sides of the cut.

Sorry, elegant....no, but simple and handy....yes.

Rick Potter

Sounds like this I would work well for ripping but for some reason I can't see how you would cross cut without cutting the doors.

George

[Rich Engelhardt]

I made one like this:

www(dot)thewoodshop20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm

or just google:

Gary Williams panel table

Here's a Youtube of one exactly like mine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykKrfjEx570

The only thing different I'd do is not use screws for the cross members. I'd drill and glue dowels in instead.

Also - you have to remember - this is a light duty table.
I have to constantly remind my partner of that....
He has a habit of tossing stuff, like sheets of plywood and drywall on it.
You can't "plop" or "toss" stuff on it, at least not for very long.
You have to lay the sheets down on it or use the tip up method in the link.

[Charles Lent]

I bought a set of banquet table legs from Harbor Freight (also available from Northern) and built the table top part. It's about a 30" wide X 70" long frame made from 1 X 4 pine on edge for the perimeter with short 2 X 4 cross pieces located where necessary to attach the legs. These 2 X 4 pieces are laid flat and flush with the top edge of the 1 X 4 frame. I added an additional 2 X 4 across the center to improve the stiffness of the table. All joints were glued with biscuits and no metal hardware was used. The only metal in the table is the table legs and the short screws that attach them to the 2 X 4 cross pieces. The table was made with no actual table top on purpose. This makes it easy to use clamps or work on small pieces with a reciprocating saw.

When folded the legs are within the 1 X 4 frame so it's easy to store it with the plywood sheets.
When set up it is large enough and high enough to make it very easy to break up full sheets. I set my circular saw depth to cut through the sheet plus about 1/4" so the top of the frame gets scored with each cut. If it ever gets really ratty I'll just make a new frame and attach the legs to it. With no metal in the table frame and the saw only scoring the top of it I never worry about hitting any with the saw blade as long as I keep the thru cut shallow.

This table has been in use for about 10 years now and I haven't come up with anything better, nor have I wanted anything better.

Sorry, no pictures at this time.

Edit: I found a photo of my previous table. It was too heavy, so I cut it apart and replaced the 2 X 4 perimeter with 1 X 4. The rest remains the same.


271963

Charley

[John Conklin]

Yep
271901

This was my solution too for use of my Dewalt track saw, but I choose to use 1x3's. Works well and cheap to replace whne it gets too chopped up.

[David Hawxhurst]

http://www.garymkatz.com/chartsdrawings/assembly_table.html

eureka zone sells (or at least did) something similar it uses plastic slides that you mount your own wood to. the only really problem is that there is nothing to keep the pieces from sliding when you move it. garys does have a lock down. i like garys design better and if i were redo mine i would more or less copy his. tom c. has a pretty nice one as well. http://www.garymkatz.com/chartsdrawings/tom-c_assembly-table.htm

these type collapse down to 2' x 4' but are capable of fully supporting a full sheet of plywood. they also have replaceable sacrificial pieces which are easy to replace after you do a lot of cutting through them. no foam or hollow doors to worry about. i use mine on a couple of saw horses but you mount your own leg system to it.

[David Hawxhurst]

http://www.garymkatz.com/chartsdrawings/assembly_table.html
http://www.garymkatz.com/chartsdrawings/tom-c_assembly-table.htm
http://www.eurekazone.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1895

mine is the old style eureka zone that used plastic. the only thing i really like about it is that the pieces move easily when you collapse the table to move it. all three designs collapse down to a 2' x 4' size but expand out to fully support a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood. if i ever redo mine i will accommodate some method to lock the rails in place to make transporting easier. they also have replaceable sacrificial pieces which are easy to replace after you do a lot of cutting through them. no foam or hollow doors to worry about. i use mine on a couple of saw horses but you can mount your own leg system to it.

[Dave Kirby]

Very pretty indeed! I have to agree with Jason, I wouldn't want to cut on it for fear of ruining it. Makes me think though... What about using one of those foldable plastic tables like they use for parties, graduations, etc. They are lightweight and fairly inexpensive and come in 4, 6 and 8 foot lengths. You can just lay some 2x4's on its surface to raise the stock up so as not to cut into the plastic table. I've used them in the past for cutting up panel stock and it worked pretty well. Just a thought.

[Jason White]

Now we're talkin'! ;)

Although, I'll probably do this with plywood since 2x4's have a way of twisting like crazy here in the California sun.


Yep
271901

[Jason White]

I think I'm leaning toward this style because I can fold it up and lean it against the wall when not in use. I don't really want something with a bunch of loose parts that I have to assemble.

My only concern is that the banquet table legs look flimsy. I wonder who might have something a little beefier.



I made one like this:

www(dot)thewoodshop20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm

or just google:

Gary Williams panel table

Here's a Youtube of one exactly like mine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykKrfjEx570

The only thing different I'd do is not use screws for the cross members. I'd drill and glue dowels in instead.

Also - you have to remember - this is a light duty table.
I have to constantly remind my partner of that....
He has a habit of tossing stuff, like sheets of plywood and drywall on it.
You can't "plop" or "toss" stuff on it, at least not for very long.
You have to lay the sheets down on it or use the tip up method in the link.

[Keith Hankins]

I would show it to you but it's upagainst the wall behind my ply. I Use my TS55 for that same purpose (and many more love that saw). I've been using forever just a sheet of Pactiv 2-in x 8-ft x 4-ft Extruded Polystyrene Insulated Sheet
You can get at lowes or HD either one. Mine was 25 bucks and I've had it for quite a few years now. Lay if flat on the ground lay your ply on top and cut away. I love not horsing 4x8 ply up on the TS anymore Its easy and 1 sheet will do any ply. I set my blade a few mm below the ply and just cut through the ply and the insulation. When done, pick it up and lean it against the wall. It's light as a feather. Cheapest, easiest cutting table I ever built (ok there's nothing to build, but you get the point) If I ever do cut it beyond repair, I'll happily buy another. BTW I'm close to 200 lbs and walk on it with no compression. Heck of strong material. Have a good one!

[Andrew Hughes]

I too have one similar, no problem with twisting I leave it out in the weather. I like a sheet of melamine for a building surface, when it rains I just cover it.I did start with reclaimed Df.

[Rich Engelhardt]

My only concern is that the banquet table legs look flimsy. I wonder who might have something a little beefier.
I bought the $20 legs Lowes carries & yes - they are on the flimsy side.

So far though, in close to 4 years of pretty heavy use, that hasn't been a problem.
The wood is scored to the point it needs replaced soon & the legs are still doing fine.

As I said above, don't toss of flop materials on it. Lay them down with a little bit of care.

[richard poitras]

Plus one for the eureka zone one I have had one for about 15 years they work great and can fold up.

http://www.eurekazone.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1895 (http://www.eurekazone.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1895)

If you go this route buy the kit and make you own top and by the leg set locally, its a lot cheaper that way.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I thought I had a picture of my table uploaded here somewhere.
I did, but, I can't just link to the attachment for some reason.
Here's the thread though that shows the table doing duty as an assembly table.
It's holding a pretty hefty roll around sheet goods cart I'm getting ready to put the wheels on.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?165596-Let-s-see-those-plywood-carts!

[Matt Meiser]

Yep
271901

+1 on this method. When not in use, the pieces take up just a little room in my lumber rack. Mine just has 4 cross pieces and 2 rails around 3-7/8" tall so that I could get enough to make 3 sets from a single sheet of ply. I built a good size kitchen, cut up a few misc sheets of ply and build a cabinet project for my parents from about 6 sheets before cracking one of the long rails at one of the half-laps. I temporarily fixed it and could keep going but I'm not complaining about that much use . I bought the Hide-A-Horse sawhorses after throwing away numerous sets of plastic ones and found that I could add a couple pocket hole screws to temporarily attach the grid to the top of the saw horses. That would obviously work with any wood-topped saw horse. At the time I built mine I only had a 6" dado stack so I cut the notches with a jig saw which worked just fine.

I had the EZ table. If you like that design, I'd follow Gary Katz's instructions to build something beefier. Following the crude "instructions" that came with, over time it sagged in the middle and the banquet table legs got bent up--go to a banquet and look and you'll see that's pretty much the norm. When the middle sags, your workpiece can pinch the saw blade and as everyone who's experience a pinched circular saw blade, that's not good. Add reinforcement and it starts getting heavy. Plus the screws eventually ripped through the plastic extrusions on mine as you are putting a lot of stress on the arms when you set a 50+ pound piece of material on them. Even folded up it takes up a fair bit of space too and its pretty much a one-trick pony as its not heavy enough to be a work bench or flat enough to be a good assembly table.

[Ole Anderson]

Sorry, I just use two sawhorses, a piece of 3/4" ply with a piece of 1" foam on top. If I need to cut the last piece of ply, foam goes on the floor.

[John Huds0n]

I really like these sawhorses. Each leg is adjustable for height and the tops have two slots that will accept a 2x4 on edge. I actually have two sets. The original design (I think it was from Dewalt) were made of aluminum. The current design from Stanley are steel and the legs don't quite spread as far apart as my older ones, but they still work great
http://www.lowes.com/pd_329700-82673-011031S_0__?productId=4753033&Ntt=saw+horses&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dsaw%2Bhorses&facetInfo=

[matt richardson]

2729402729411/2" plywood, half lap joints, packs down flat and I through it in my sheet goods storage when I don't need it. Lately I've been using a sheet of 1/2 MDF for a sacrificial top, but it's not needed.

[Joe Scharle]

I just built the Paulk bench w/o the sawhorses. Used Baltic Birch for the top and plain BC bottom and sides/stretchers. Cost $75.00 and took 11 hours.
Put a vise on it this PM. I built it for cutting down sheets with my tracksaw too. I even built the benches with my tracksaw.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2742/medium/2013-10-11_16_42_23.jpg

[Chris Rosenberger]

I use any flat surface I have available at the time & 2 pieces of 1 1/2" x 2' x 8' foam insulation.

[Dave Zellers]

1/2" plywood, half lap joints, packs down flat and I through it in my sheet goods storage when I don't need it. Lately I've been using a sheet of 1/2 MDF for a sacrificial top, but it's not needed.
For a quick set-up, knock-down system needing minimal storage space, that's excellent.

[Biff Johnson]

This is what I did except instead of 2X4's I cut 4 inch high strips of 3/4 plywood. These were then half-lapped to provide the sacrificial surface. It was surprising strong, lightweight, and easy to break down and store. Cheap too! I have the same set up as this except I used cedar fence boards for the cross boards. They are cheap and light, easy to store.

[Mike Olson]

I just use an old folding table that the previous owners of my house left in the garage. It's plenty sturdy and I cut right across it when cutting plywood to prevent rip out on the bottom. It's plenty sturdy, i have had 3 sheets of 3/4" ply on it moving them around while doing my layouts. I also use it for my Assembly table.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FmBNiMKXmJc/T891hit0JHI/AAAAAAAAEfw/6A9OvMyHJKE/s800/IMG_1302.JPG

[Mark P. Miller]

Another +1 for the Eurekazone smart table hardware. I consider it to be one of my better purchases over the years. Just attach it to the table top of your choice (fancy or simple), and you have a really functional and adjustable setup for cutting. Mine has cheap banquet table legs and a 3/4" plywood top. I attached 1" x 2" furring strips down both long edges to provide more support to the table top.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

Plus one for the eureka zone one I have had one for about 15 years they work great and can fold up.

http://www.eurekazone.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1895 (http://www.eurekazone.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1895)



The Eurekazone table top is what I use. Set the 2x4 plywood base on a pair of sawhorses and cut away.

Cliff