5" to 6" adaptors

[Chris Parks]

Does anyone know a source of 5" to 6" adaptors for flexible ducting?

To ask the question another way, all the Euro machines have 5" ports. Has anyone gone from 5" to 6" and if so how? I don't feel like cutting up my new slider which I haven't seen yet.

[David Wong]

I purchased a 6 to 5 inch reducer fron Oneida-Air. The cost was quite reasonable at around $12. I use the reducer at the end of a 6" flex hose, and attach the 5" end to a 120mm port. I use a 120mm quick adapter from Felder with a strip of neoprene foam tape around the outside, to get a slip on fit with the 5" reducer. A little rube goldberg-ish, but it works for the two machines I have.

[Chris Parks]

Thanks David, now 25.00 each but that is not a worry. Any others out there? In Australia this sort of stuff is impossible to buy.

[Leo Graywacz]

The long taper one is $25 the regular one is $11.40

[David Kumm]

You can get an increaser at the hardware store. Crimped on the 6" end for the flex and wrap some duct tape on the 120mm port, trim it off and fit it to the 5". Costs about $5. Dave

[Chris Parks]

You can get an increaser at the hardware store. Crimped on the 6" end for the flex and wrap some duct tape on the 120mm port, trim it off and fit it to the 5". Costs about $5. Dave

David, You can't in Oz. HVAC stuff like that doesn't exist as we don't have centrally heated homes, no white stuff here.

[David Wong]

Another option is to use a rubber plumbing fitting. In the USA, there is a company named Fernco that supplies many different sizes of fittings. This would be a more elegant solution, if you can find the correct size fitting for your needs.

[Jim Andrew]

Do you have duct tape over there? If so, you could just wrap the 5" with duct tape to build it up so it barely fits inside the 6" and then wrap the paired up joint with duct tape. Not a neat solution, but if all else fails? Don't understand the 5" dust connections, my Griz G9983 sander also has a 5", and it would work much better if it were 6". Been thinking of cutting the round fitting off, and going with a square 5", as that is what it is under the flange, with 6" on the other end. Think I could make an adapter.

[Chris Parks]

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated. I wonder if 5" hose will go inside 6"? I might give it a try.

[Chris Parks]

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated. I have just had a thought, I wonder if 5" will go inside 6" hose? I will have to try it.

[Steve Peterson]

You can heat PVC pipe with a torch and crimp it down to a smaller diameter. You need to do it outside since the fumes are dangerous in case you get the PVC too hot. I did this a few times with 4" PVC. 6" might be more challenging.

Now I just take a 2-3" length of 6" PVC and slit it lengthwise to remove a small sliver so that it can be squeezed to fit inside the full sized pipe. This will create a fitting that is about 5.5". Do it again by removing a slightly larger sliver and the diameter will be close to 5". The PVC pieces want to expand outwards so they maintain a snug fit.

Steve

[glenn bradley]

David, You can't in Oz. HVAC stuff like that doesn't exist as we don't have centrally heated homes, no white stuff here.

What!?! Hot in December!?! What are you, on the other side of the world or somethi . . . er . . . Oh :D.

Perhaps doing the old stretch-eroo on some PVC would do the trick: http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/pvc.cfm

Making the Pipe SmallerWhen I asked if he could make it smaller, he said he did not know how. Thinking how my old chemistry professor taught me how to work with glass, I began doing some play of my own. I found that by leaving about 4" of cool handle and warming up roughly 12" above that, you can slowly stretch the pipe as well, making for a diameter again about one pipe size smaller. Key to my success was that end piece, help from a wire loop that went through a hole in the cold piece, and a steady weight to help with the stretching while I heated. Another trick was to slip a big wooden dowel or plug into the pipe that was the right size and use a wide band clamp (I used my piston ring compressor) to neck it to just the right size.