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Jay Jolliffe
09-27-2013, 5:16 PM
I would like to know the pro's & con's of a snow blower vrs a snow blade on a tractor...I caretake a house with a very long driveway. The owner wants to get a midsize tractor with a bucket to do the driveway. I'd like to know what would work best. I live in mid coast Maine & we can get 2' of snow at times....

David G Baker
09-27-2013, 5:48 PM
I have a walk behind snow blower and a tractor with a back blade and a bucket. The snow blower does a very clean neat job of clearing a driveway. I have problems with the snow blower when the snow is very wet and heavy. I have a 300 foot long driveway that is dirt and gravel. The back blade frequently scrapes a lot of the dirt and gravel and deposits the mess where you pile your snow. If you can wait until you have an inch or so of frozen snow covering your drive then most of the mess is avoided but you still have piles of snow that can get pretty high. A front bucket is pretty much useless until you need to move the piles of snow to another location. I have started using my back blade more often as I get older due to getting out of shape and lazy. My snow blower can handle 21 inches of snow if it is pretty dry. The best option I have seen is if you get a mid size tractor and a hydraulic controlled front blade like the snow removal trucks use.

David Weaver
09-27-2013, 5:58 PM
If you can get 2 feet of snow at one time and you're working by yourself, you probably want a utility tractor with a PTO driven snowblower.

We have a large walk behind snow blower, but when we get the rare snow above 20 inches or so, someone has to work ahead of it with a shovel.

Randy Rizzo
09-27-2013, 6:33 PM
I live in the wilds of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. For the past 10 years I have used a small skid steer, a Case 1840 with a dirt bucket. The drive is about 300 feet long and a fairly steep hill to boot. Gravel and iron ore mostly. I need to wait until the ground is well frozen before running this thing up and down the drive to avoid tearing it up. But, once it's frozen it does a pretty good job. Might take an extra pass or two with the bucket versus a blade, but with the bucket you have the ability to stack higher than with a blade. Last year that was a real help as we got a lot of snow and I was running out of places to put it. Or if you need to move a pile it's easy enough to do. It is also maneuverable enough that I can clear the parking pad in front of the garage with no problem. The only problem that I have encountered is when it gets icy, without chains it's a no go. So I keep the chains on year around. That is why you need to wait until the ground is frozen before using it.

Ed Aumiller
09-27-2013, 7:27 PM
It is a lot easier to PUSH snow with a blade, so recommend a front mounted blade on a utility tractor...
I have a blade on the 3 point hitch... for just a few inches or so, it is not bad... but when 12" and up, I end up reversing the blade and pushing the snow (very hard on neck when constantly backing up)
A pto snow blower would be ideal....
My drive is about 3/10 mile and mostly on hillside... looking to get a front mounted blade for the JD tractor fairly soon...

Lee Schierer
09-27-2013, 7:46 PM
You just need to remember that when you push snow into a pile, that pile becomes an immovable object until it melts. If you don't push the snow far enough the first time your drive way gets smaller and smaller with each snow fall. A Bucket may help, but, you'll need some power to bust into frozen snow piles. With a snow blower, you can keep blowing snow up and over any high spots along the side of the driveway.

I have a Simplicity 8 Hp snow blower that handles the heavy wet snow we get along Lake Erie in the snow belt. We average over 80" of snow per year, usually the heavy wet kind. In the five years I've owned it, it clogged once when I tried to blow slush through it fresh out of the garage

Val Kosmider
09-27-2013, 8:37 PM
You didn't mention what sort of surface you are clearing....dirt/gravel, crushed stone or blacktop. That can make a LOT of difference in your choice of implements.

Assuming the surface is hard enough to run a blade over, or use a snow blower without fear of running too many stones through it, those are your best options. "Plowing" snow with a bucket is a real pain. It is great to move the piles, but for clearing long stretches you get one long run, then a series of short pushes which move the snow off to the side...off to the side...off to the side....you end up with a hacked up mess, if visuals mean anything to you.

In my prior life I owned a JD 750. It is a utility tractor, four wheel drive, and will push down a house if you can keep the traction going. I had both a bucket and a hydraulic plow--both up and down pressure. It had a 'float' setting, but the blade was so heavy I had to have larger shoes made for the plow to keep it from digging up my asphalt. It was good for plowing snow, especially the long runs where it really got the snow rolling out the side when you angled the blade left or right. I would say that unless you have a four wheel drive tractor, pushing heavy snow can be a chore. Two wheel drive probably requires a set of chains.

And then, when I lived in the snow capital of the entire united states where we easily got over 100" of the stuff every winter (the last year I was there it was over 200"), and lake effect storms of two and three feet were common, I relied on a walk behind Ariens snow blower. The thing was a horse, and would belch out the snow. Nine or ten HP, the only thing that slowed it down were the frozen walls at the end of the driveway which were many times four or five feet high from where the town plow came through. That drive was asphalt, and just a little bit of sun after the storms and the thing melted down quickly to bare pavement after a good blow job :).

Every situation is local, but if budget is no problem, I would suggest a utility tractor with a blower--front mount, not the rear, you will never get your neck straightened out--followed by a utility tractor, four wheel drive, with a front mounted plow; and lastly, a front mounted bucket. Diesel is fine if the machine sits in a warmer garage, otherwise you need to be able to plug it in.

Have fun--clearing serious can range from everything from real joy, to complete agony. With a utility tractor you can choose an enclosed cab which protects you pretty well from the elements. Not so much with a walk behind snow blower. MY BIL, who is just west of Camden, has all three. I think he uses the blower mostly around the house, and the plow for the 300' driveway.

Quite honestly, when you are dealing with 18" of heavy glop, nothing works wonderfully. The blower struggles, the plow cant push it, and the bucket is like trying to paint a room with a 3" foam brush.

Jay Jolliffe
09-27-2013, 9:05 PM
I guess I did fail to say what the driveway was. For about 1/4 mile it's reclaim & the end is about 400' of 3/4 stone. I was told by the tractor people the the 70'' snow blower would have no problem with the snow. Wet or dry....the tractor has 41hp so I hope it works. They'll tell you anything to sell you something.

Jerome Stanek
09-27-2013, 9:13 PM
I have both a walk behind snow blower and tractor with a bucket and 6 foot back blade. I can clean my drives quicker with the blower than the 6 foot blade and I don't get a stiff neck from the blower.

Kevin Bourque
09-27-2013, 10:04 PM
Here on the farm we use a movable front blade on our tractor to clear snow from the driveways. It's only a problem if we get new snow before the old snow melts.

Jim Matthews
09-28-2013, 6:33 AM
Jay, aren't you out in the bay?

Are there any commercial outfits doing driveway clean outs?
I'm also Coastal, and the snow we get is heavy enough to clog a thrower.

I'm thinking a front mounted blade is less likely to foul.

You'll want chains, too.

Jay Jolliffe
09-28-2013, 9:21 AM
I'm on an Island....There is a bucket on the front of the tractor.....The tractor's not bought yet. Looking at it on Monday so I'll see what the options are. Having to back up 1/4 mile with a blower might not be easy. The tractor were looking does not have a detachable bucket so I don't know how the blower would mount on the front......

Jim Becker
09-28-2013, 7:45 PM
I have a Kubota BX series and use my front end loader to clear the occasional spot of snow we typically get around here. But if it's a lot, it takes a very long time to clear snow with a bucket. The FEL just isn't ideally suited to clearing snow. I've never been a fan of snowblowers for no good reason, but they really do a good job for what they are designed to do. They are just more complicated mechanically than a blade.

The investment in the tractor is a great idea for your homeowner...and it can be very versatile around the property year 'round. (mine has paid for itself many times over) But again, a blower or a blade will be better suited for dealing with a long, snowy driveway, with the blower having an edge when things get deep. And yea, a front mounted blower is easier to use than a rear PTO mounted blower because of the required direction of travel... ;)

Matt Meiser
09-28-2013, 10:01 PM
With gravel I wouldn't want a snow blower. Snow and gravel stick together. Its bad enough to get the gravel off the grass along the driveway in the spring--snow blower is going to throw it a lot further. I use a FEL and a back blade to do my driveway, mostly the back blade. If the snow is really deep (we once had a drift across the driveway over 3' deep I can actually dig it out with the loader. I can also use it to push snow straight forward once the bucket is full which is handy in some areas. And if we get snow after snow after snow, I can use it to pile up snow in the turnaround almost 6' high. But the back blade does most of the work. A tip an old timer told me is to actually run the back blade backward until the gravel is good an frozen to the driveway. It pushes most of the gravel down instead of digging in--not perfect but a lot better. I've also read that replacing the cutting edge with heavy rubber works well but I haven't found any yet.

I also usually end up plowing our road shoulder to shoulder in front of our property to keep the plow trucks from filling in our drive and the drive across the street. Also usually go down to the corner about a 1/4 mile 2 passes to clear a wide enough path for my wife (and the neighbors lucky enough to live south of me) to the corner since we live on a dirt road that usually won't get plowed for 8-24 or more hours. For the road which is better packed, I spin the blade around since it throws the snow better in that mode. If I had it to do all over again, I'd probably think about a plow--a friend has one and it works well. Wouldn't want to give up the loader though so it would be a tough choice.

I can usually do my driveway (maybe 1/8 mile total) plus what I do on the road in about an hour.

Ken Platt
09-28-2013, 10:31 PM
I have a Kubota compact utility, with a front-mount snowblower. A couple of times when we had a snowfall and I didn't have the blower mounted, I tried to use the FEL to clear the driveway, and I cannot for the life of me figure out how people do this in any effective fashion. I have sworn to myself that I will never ever try that again. Of course, I may just be a klutz with the loader.

I would not want to have to use a rear-mounted snow removal device, but many folks do. I do have a regular hydraulic snowplow also (came as a package with the tractor), but have never used it because the snowblower works so darn well, I never felt the need for anything else. My driveway is asphalt, though. About 300 feet long.

Whatever else you get, I highly recommend some sort of cab. It makes all the difference between being miserable, cold, wet and wind-whipped, and being reasonably comfortable. I made one from a golf-cart cover (this is a popular workaround, I'm sure a google search will turn up lots of info). Cost me around $100 and some leftover 2x and ply scraps to make a support.

Hope this helps.

Ken

David G Baker
09-28-2013, 10:54 PM
I angle my back blade so it pushes the snow to the side of the drive way and drive forward. I make a wide path so the snow doesn't pile to high on the sides it leaves room for several snow storms. If the snow piles to high I then use my front end loader to move it. When I get to an area where the snow piles up at the turn around I drive back wards and this helps pile up the larger amount of snow to make more room.

Sam Murdoch
09-28-2013, 11:05 PM
What Matt says - "With gravel I wouldn't want a snow blower. Snow and gravel stick together." Especially without a long deep freeze that allows the driveway to stay packed most of the winter. We haven't had those in Maine for a decade. My 460' gravel driveway takes a beating every winter. The snow plowing pushes it all across the road or into my neighbors yard but the snow blower is always in need of repair. Never had this much trouble until the past 5 years or so. Spent all day today and more days ahead rebuilding the drive in advance of this next winter. All in all I think you will have more control with the plow than with the blower.

eugene thomas
09-29-2013, 4:17 AM
I have 2305 john deer sub compact with front mounted snow blower. driveway is gravel and about 400 feet long. I just have to be careful until gravel is frozen in the driveway. the snow blower is nice when need to clean out snow for deliveries and such. I could of got rear mounted 3 point hitch blower and still had bucket on my tractor but not wanted to have to drive down my driveway in revers. I don't have the cab or anything like that. that is only think not really like about my tractor, when blowing snow and wind shifts gets pretty cold really fast.

Mike Cutler
09-29-2013, 6:50 AM
Jay

You'll be there all day with the bucket if you have to clear 2' of snow. I'd say you'd have even more trouble trying to push a 2' wall of snow with a blade, or setting the bucket as a blade. The blower is quicker, but it's a pretty $$$$ item for a limited use. You're in Maine though so it wouldn't be so limited for you.:D,;)

What's that saying my "Maineiac" friends have. "7 months of winter and 5 months of bad sledding".
Get the blower.

David G Baker
09-29-2013, 12:34 PM
Sam M.
My snowblower has shoes on it that I can adjust the height of the unit. Early in the snow season I raise the front end up so it leaves around one inch of snow on the ground and this misses 98% of the gravel. When the snow left behind hardens I then lower the front. My back blade picks up a lot of gravel if the snow isn't packed hard and frozen on the drive way. In the Spring I have to rake the areas where the blade has moved all of the stones.

Jay Jolliffe
09-29-2013, 3:10 PM
How does every ones tractor work in the snow as far as traction. This tractor will have 4 wheel drive & chains...Any one know if they make a soft cab as an add on?

Ken Platt
09-29-2013, 9:40 PM
Jay, you might want to check out a tractor forum called Tractorbynet. Lots of very useful information and very helpful folks. There is information by the bucket on cabs and traction issues, chains, not to mention many threads on snow removal equipment and techniques.

Ken

eugene thomas
09-30-2013, 1:21 AM
I got chains with my tractor but 5 winters later still in original bag. I have fluid filled rear tires but thats it. When start to slip I just flip the lever for 4 wheel operation.

Matt Marsh
09-30-2013, 5:48 AM
I clear a total of about 200 yards of driveway and access to my outbuildings, all gravel. The main driveway leading in to the place is about 100 yards long, is narrow, and is heavily wooded on both sides. There are a lot of variables that are involved when it comes to choosing what machine I use to move snow. When it's early, and the ground is still soft, and if the snow fall is less than a foot, I like to use my 4X4 ATV with a 60" angle snow plow. This also has shoes that keep the blade elevated. I try to have at least 1 to 2 inches of frozen bed throughout the winter. The biggest trouble with plows of any kind is that you must have enough room for snow banks and piles. You also have to anticipate a heavy snow winter, and make sure you move the snow far enough to make room for later plowings. Because of the trees on both sides of the main driveway, there isn't much room for snow banks, and 100 yards is too far to push the snow all the way out to the road. Snow banks also cause the snow to drift more. If the snow is more than a foot, then I use a 10HP, 28" Ariens Deluxe walk behind blower. I use to have a 20 HP Wheel Horse hydro tractor with a 42" blower, but it was more hassle using it than it was worth. It was too large for sidewalks, and for maneuvering around in tight areas. It was also a single stage blower, so it didn't throw the snow far enough if it was only and inch or two deep. With a blower, you touch the snow only once and it's gone. No piles, a lot less drifting, and you have a lot more control over where the snow is going. I also have a 1964 model 65 Massey Ferguson tractor with a 3-point back blade on it, that I use occasionally to push frozen piles out of the way.

Matt Meiser
09-30-2013, 9:37 AM
How does every ones tractor work in the snow as far as traction. This tractor will have 4 wheel drive & chains...Any one know if they make a soft cab as an add on?

I have the R4 industrial tires on mine and its only fair. Deeper snow and an angled blade can cause the back to slide sideways. Momentum or a smaller bite are the cure. I do not have filled tires but need to look into it now that I'm not mowing with the tractor. Turf tires would only be worse and ag tires will tear up your lawn so my dealer mostly sells the R4 tires.

Jim Laumann
09-30-2013, 1:35 PM
Jay

I live out on the "prairie" of southern MN - very open - and very windy. When we get a snow storm, it will blow for 2-3 days or more afterward - lots and lots of snowdrifts, especially once windrows get made along the edge of the drive (and the township roads for that matter). Picking the snow up and moving it as far as possible off/from the drive / road is an absolute must.

I got all these guys beat on distance - as my drive is 1700' long. I have a 50 hp Farmall 460 (a late '50s vintage farm tractor). It's gas, so it's easier to get started and running when it's cold. I have a rear blade, a blower, and loader. 90% of the time, the blade is in the shed. If you have a say in the purchase of a blower, make absolutely certain the blower is a two stage unit.

As the others have stated, I try to build up a layer of hardpack, and then lower the blower - trying to prevent picking up all the rock and flinging it else where (and then having to buy rock and spread it the following summer).

You asked about added weight - I have 3 #100 wheel weights on each side of the rear axle, plus the tires are filled w/ fluid. The tires are ag bar-tread. The extra weight helps greatly when using the loader.

While I put the blower down once I've got hard pack, I can never get all the snow off the drive, and gradually, it builds up - so then I use the loader to scrape the drive clean. The buckets get dumped on the side, then I use the blower to fling the piles as far as possible. The build up is due to the blower floating - the blower itself could be heavier, so it could/would cut thru the build up better.

Doing any length of drive / roadway w/ a bucket is a pain the backside - especially in the dead of winter. A late spring storm or when you know you will have a thaw - you can get away w/ it, but if the snow is going to be around for a while - a blower is the ONLY way to go.

Hope this helps

Jim

Jerome Stanek
09-30-2013, 1:40 PM
I used to plow with a front blade and found that I would get some pretty high piles along the drive way and then the wind would start to blow nad the snow would drift across the drive the the height of the piles. so I would have to push it higher. Now I use a blower and there are no piles for the snow to drift

Jay Jolliffe
09-30-2013, 5:35 PM
271984271985271986271987271988Decided to concentrate on tree removal instead of snow removal. A week or so a go we had a freak storm that lasted for about 1 hr. I guess what happened are caller micro-bursts. The house I care take had over 75 tree blown down or snapped off. Bought the tractor to help remove the trees. Someone else will pull the stumps....In the past 4-5 yrs over 400 trees have been blown over or snapped off on this property.

Jim Mackell
09-30-2013, 6:18 PM
Won't need to buy firewood for awhile, huh?

Jay Jolliffe
09-30-2013, 7:49 PM
Unfortunately it's mostly spruce. I only burn hard wood..out of all the trees that came down 4 were birch :(

Dirk Hoogendoorn
10-01-2013, 7:22 PM
The drive surface material is the difference maker in my opinion. I have a long paved drive and I live on the shores of Georgian Bay. We get a number of snowfalls of over 6" at a time. On paved surfaces I like the snowblower. If the snow is heavier then just take a little smaller bite. My tractor is a 14hp. diesel and it is equipped with a 4' snowblower as well as 200lbs. of weight on the front. It is a 4wheel drive tractor with power shift and handles the blower well. With a loader or blade you get snow buildup that gets more and more difficult to deal with as the winter goes on, whereas the blower leaves much less of a snow ridge for blowing snow to build up behind.

Jim Becker
10-02-2013, 9:25 PM
How does every ones tractor work in the snow as far as traction. This tractor will have 4 wheel drive & chains...Any one know if they make a soft cab as an add on?

I have bar tires on my Kubota BX22...and I leave the backhoe on the machine to press those rear wheels down with about 700 lbs of weight. :) :D

You can usually get some form of soft cab for most tractors and it's a lot easier to accommodate these days since all tractors have the ROPs (roll over protection) systems which can serve as the rear support for the same.

Chris Walls
10-04-2013, 11:26 PM
We also live in the wilds of the western upper peninsula of Michigan, we have about 1200 feet of drive to keep open and we often exceed 250" of snow a season. We use a New Holland Compact Diesel with a 6' , front mounted blower. It's been about 12 years now and it still works great. Be sure to get a cab if you are going to use a blower. Not an option, a MUST. When it's into the neg numbers and the wind is coming straight out of the north at 25 mph. Believe me, you want a cab. Also the cab has got to have heat. If not the windows frost up so fast it's hard to believe and then you can't see anything at all. A front mounted blower is also much easier to use also. Backing up a long drive looking over your shoulder is no fun at all.

Chris

Myk Rian
10-05-2013, 3:52 AM
I would like to know the pro's & con's of a snow blower vrs a snow blade on a tractor...I caretake a house with a very long driveway. The owner wants to get a midsize tractor with a bucket to do the driveway. I'd like to know what would work best. I live in mid coast Maine & we can get 2' of snow at times....
After a while, you cant push the snow any further because it's all packed up. A snow thrower gets it away from the drive.