Engineered Wood vs 4' x 8' Pine Plywood Siding

[Jerry Toschlog]

3/8"Prefinished SmartSide Engineered Wood (http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/siding/ppg-prefinished-siding/ppg-prefinished-engineered-wood/prefinished-smartside-engineered-wood-panel-3-8x4x8-textd-8oc-groove/p-1941232-c-9439.htm) vs 5/8" x 4' x 8' Pine Plywood Siding (http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/siding/panel-siding/5-8-x-4-x-8-pine-plywood-siding-8-oc/p-1934661-c-13383.htm)
I am looking at adding a lean to and only need 8 sheets. The extracost for the smartside is not an issue, plus it's prepainted vs the plywood. Iknow back in the day people did not like this type of wood, but what is it liketoday, how good is the smartside?

Thanks Jerry

[Rich Riddle]

I have some SmartSide above the brick line on the house and plan to remove it as quickly as possible next year. The previous owner had it newly placed on the house when we bought it four years ago and is failing four years later.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I just used three sheets of the Smartside yesterday on a tool shed I'm repairing.

Do as I say - - not as I do --- make sure you prime and paint all cut edges. Back priming it wouldn't be a bad idea either - but, it's not really necessary since the wood wafers are treated. Cutting exposes an untreated edge on the wafers.
I'd bet that's what went wrong with Rich's install above.

Read the installation sheet for specifics as far as nailing.
Google "installing Smartside" and you'll find a number of sources.

Just as an FYI - Smartside is wafer board - but, it's not the stuff the LP got sued over. It's a greatly improved product.
It is a little quirky though.

[Mike Olson]

I used the plywood siding (T-1-11) a few years ago on a shed build and painting those grooves was brutal, even with a sprayer. I'd say go with what ever was pre-primed.

edit, as for durability of the plywood siding, i can't complain too much. I do have one corner that is curving out which popped 2 nails out but other than that it's been great. I really should screw that corner down before winter, ugh, another thing to add to the to-do list...

[Rich Engelhardt]

painting those grooves was brutal, even with a sprayer.I had another shed I repaired earlier in the Spring I used T1-11 siding on.
I went back and stained the whole thing using a 3" sash brush for the grooves and a 9" roller.
It took the better part of a day and the better part of a 30 pack...... :D.

[Pat Barry]

Comparing the Smartside with plywood its no contest in favor of the Smartside. Like Rich I used a brush for the grooves and a roller to do the larger surface. I used Behr exterior latex and was happy with the result. I think its a great product, especially for the price.

[Jerry Toschlog]

well I am leaning towards Smartside at this time. I plan to eyeball some this weekend........

[Jim Andrew]

The only way I'd use the plywood siding, is if I planned on going natural and soaking it with oil regularly. If you plan to paint it, the hardboard or smart siding would be much less headache. Back in the day before Masonite was sold, their hardboard siding was very hard and long lived. Have heard that the other companies have improved their products since Masonite went away.

[Rich Engelhardt]

well I am leaning towards Smartside at this time. I plan to eyeball some this weekend........In the meantime.....eyeball some of the installation literature.
I can't stress that enough. The stuff has some definite quirks to it that can mean the difference between a job that only last 4 years or one that lasts forever.

[Mel Fulks]

Are we talking about Smartside PROJECT PANEL ? I used it once to redo a tool shed and it's held up well .Around here I see it on a lot of those . My neighbors bought one about ten years ago and did not paint it and it still looks good.

[glenn bradley]

The main impact of these products comes from the installation. The benefits become disadvantages if the material is not installed correctly. From the research I have done, simply knowing how to install siding has little to do with these types of products. On the plus side, manufacturers are very good about providing instructions as to what you must do to assure success. I have some failing areas and once you know what to look for the improper installation of these areas is not hard to spot. I assume someone who knew how to do this had someone else helping them as there are two very different methods of installation present and all appears to be original.

[Brian Tax]

Put SmartSide on my shop a year ago and has held up well. Follow the instructions.

[george newbury]

Have you thought of Hardi-board?

I did a shed in T-11 about 30 years ago, and besides being a pain to paint every several years it became "old" around the edges. I replaced it with Hardi-board about 5 years ago and it was easy to install and is basically thin sheets of concrete and fiber.

/edit - I painted it, even though it was "prepainted" and have had a couple of large leftover unpainted pieces in the weather with no deterioration. It does breaks easy, so don't try to use it as a ramp like you might plywood.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Have you thought of Hardi-board?



+1, the sheets or lap, either will hold up a LOT better, and are not bad to work with. I prefer the lap, it looks a lot better in my opinion.

[Jim Andrew]

If you use hardyboard, be sure to use a shear to cut it. I used a diamond blade once, and the dust was a killer. When you use the shear it seems the stuff is made of cardboard, but when you saw it, it seems like concrete. Around here, I see a lot of hardyboard, but they use smart trim with it. The smart trim is the same material as the smart siding.