repurpose a countertop for a router table?

[Chris Skoglund]

I'm going to make my first router table and I was thinking of using a countertop that already has a laminate top surface. Any opinions on this? Pros and cons? I was thinking of laminating a piece of MDF or 3/4 plywood to the bottom to add some heft. Would that work? Any thoughts and advice are welcomed and I thank you in advance.

[Matt Day]

It needs to be flat now, and stay flat after you cut a hole in it and hang a 10# router from it. You'll likely need to brace it it a lot.

[mreza Salav]

if you beef it up I don't see a reason why not use it.

[Anthony Whitesell]

You will need to make sure it does not have a "no drip" edge, where the top rises before it meets the edge to help small spills from meeting the floor. Having one, would make the top very not flat. My new and old counter tops both have it, as well as one I earned in trade for some computer work.

[pat warner]

Moreover, who's to say the laminate and its gluing process are/were flat when created?
Not easy to clamp down on a large surface/laminate package so that substrate and laminate are as flat as either began.
Average work, don't care about surprises, close joinery (cope & stick e.g) unimportant?
Then why not?

[Frederick Skelly]

Chris, I did something similar last year. It works fine. As folks already said, make sure its flat and brace it. On mine, connecting it to the braces also flattened it. YMMV.

Youll be surprised how well it works. Ive seen guys do great work with less. Plus, using this low cost approach will let you get a sense of what features youd really like someday when you upgrade.

Fred

[Chris Skoglund]

Thanks everyone. I recently tried using a base of MDF with two sheets of hardboard on top, all laminated with contact cement, and a frame of hardwood edging running around the top. Both top and bottom are covered with a laminate of Formica. I got it from Shopnotes. However, I ended up with a big bow in it and after trying to flatten just tossed it and decided to start again. I'm new to this. Not quite sure how I managed to get a bow.... The original plan actually called for 3/4 plywood not MDF but since I had MDF available I used that instead. Perhaps that's why I got the bow?

I may just try the original plan again and pay more attention as I build.

[Rick Potter]

It used to be pretty common to use sink cutouts from formica counters to make a router table. My dad made one, braced it with some 2x4, and made a lot of really nice mantels.

Rick Potter

[Myk Rian]

Use the counter top and glue a piece of MDF under it. It'll be fine.
You will be using an insert plate, correct?

[Phillip Gregory]

Chris, the bow you likely got in your previous design was likely introduced during the lamination process as the kinds of weight recommended for lamination (I believe I read something like >30 lb/ft^2 was recommended by the maker of the cement) would certainly bow MDF if it wasn't completely supported underneath. Putting the MDF on a couple of 3/4" thick scraps to keep it off the floor would certainly cause a bow. The best way to laminate would be to put the two pieces you are laminating together on top of another piece of MDF or flat plywood which is placed directly on the floor. You also want to make sure your weight is as evenly distributed on the top of the piece as well.

[Curt Harms]

Chris, I did something similar last year. It works fine. As folks already said, make sure its flat and brace it. On mine, connecting it to the braces also flattened it. YMMV.

Youll be surprised how well it works. Ive seen guys do great work with less. Plus, using this low cost approach will let you get a sense of what features youd really like someday when you upgrade.

Fred

Yup. I ran a couple 1.5" angle irons parallel to the long side of the plate opening and just outside it.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Thanks everyone. I recently tried using a base of MDF with two sheets of hardboard on top, all laminated with contact cement, and a frame of hardwood edging running around the top. Both top and bottom are covered with a laminate of Formica. I got it from Shopnotes. However, I ended up with a big bow in it and after trying to flatten just tossed it and decided to start again. I'm new to this. Not quite sure how I managed to get a bow.... The original plan actually called for 3/4 plywood not MDF but since I had MDF available I used that instead. Perhaps that's why I got the bow?

I may just try the original plan again and pay more attention as I build.


I built mine (no plans, just kind of made it up in my head). I built a support structure that I attached to the bottom out of oak. I believe that the support structure will prevent bowing. I suppose that if the support structure warps, then the top will warp with it :cool:

[Adam Diethrich]

I think anyting you use, as long as you maintain flatness and integrity of the surface is fine. The wood you machine won't know the difference or care, as long as it moves straight and true through the cutter.

I made mine as well, sort of. Made my router plate at work from 3/8" aluminum plate, and sunk it into one end of one of my benches. Works great with a removable fence, and doesn't take up extra space as a stand-alone tool.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?207618-Looking-for-suggestions&p=2154412#post2154412

A.W.D.

[Bill White]

If you have enough, double it up rough side to rough side. That way you'll have laminate on both sides of the top.
That's what I did on my router table. Been flat for about 10 years. I used sink cutouts.
Bill

[pat warner]

Question please. What alloy?
And will you characterize the slip? Do wood and other materials (plastic, fiberboard) slide well on it?
Or maybe you had it Teflon coated?

[Adam Diethrich]

I used 6061-T6, but honestly won't matter that much as thick as I made it. Most thicker plate you'll find readily is going to be that alloy.
I had the plate hard anodized, so it slips fairly well for me, at least for what I know about with limited experience in other options.

The bench itself as the rest of the surface is just laminated maple - typical workbench stuff, with a clear Deft finish if I recall from back then...
Overall works real well.

A.W.D.