How would you put these together?

[curtis rosche]

Im working on my current project and I have an idea of how to connect these and turn it into a coffee table, but I want to see what the rest of you think. In total its 60''x39'' and right now its 2.5'' thick. Its spaulted maple burl. Im going to run a board down the center and one inbetween each piece going the other way. But Im not sure how to actually connect and support everything securely and with some style. Sorry the horizontal photo is a little off on the right side, I was attempting to use the panorama feature on my phone

[paul cottingham]

I don't know if my suggestion will be helpful, but I would consider a metal frome for the pieces. Whatever you do, I think input will make for a mighty fine table.

[Mark Bolton]

I guess Im on the other side. I can see several ways to do it, most that I think would look best would require a tremendous effort, but I find myself thinking there are so many more interesting things that could be done with those pieces as opposed to housing them in some "frame" and making them into a table.

In my eyes most commonly you would see these cut into the largest panels they would allow (all identical sized) and go from there. A lot of waste. Working with the live edge would be fun but a lot of work for what may not turn out to be such a spectacular end.

[curtis rosche]

Mark, there is a tremendous amount of waste to cut it into uniform peices. That was my first approach. But the smallest peice is able to get an 8x10 peice and the two largest can get a 9x11 but with lots of waste. More waste than anyone would deam acceptable.

[David L Morse]

Not sure exactly what you're trying to do but here's an interesting table we saw in Costa Rica this summer.
271254

[curtis rosche]

Dave, that's similar to what I want to attempt. But do to the odd shapes involved Im not sure how to attatch them to each other or a frame of some sort

[Frederick Skelly]

Curtis,
Not sure Im following you. But it sounds like youre considering a grid that has a centerline board and several perpendicular boards, without a frame on the outside? Much like a tic-tac-toe grid?

If so, can you flatten/square ONLY the edges that will come in contact with the grid without wasting too much material? That should still leave at least the outside edges "live".

Im thinking that if your grid was 2.5" high and reasonably wide ( 2"?), you could glue the spalted pieces to the grid and make a pretty solid part. (You have to think through wood movement, etc to make sure it wont tear itself apart, of course.)

Then, if you put a leg at each corner rather than a single leg/post in the center, the heavy top ought to have enough structural support.

Its an idea, anyway. Good luck. Be sure to show us the finished result!
Fred

[Frederick Skelly]

Another idea if you want the look Dave posted might be to put the support grid UNDER the spalted pieces so you dont see it unless you bend down to look. Attach the spalted pieces to the hidden grid via concealed lag bolts.

(I can visualize how to do this and make it look nice, but I dont want to waste your time describing it if its not what you have in mind. PM me if I can help.)

Fred

[curtis rosche]

Fred you're right on the money with "tick tac toe" board. I don't know why I didn't think of the easiest way to describe it.

I think it might be easiest to glue like you said, then route a channel along the bottom to recess some solid support and then lag it in.

For the grid inbetween the slabs, I was thinking of using bacote, so wide strips might not happen.

Four legs was originally my plan, but was contemplating using three. But I'm not sure what choice of wood. I'm planning on painting the live edge black like I did with te last burl slab table I made

[Adam Diethrich]

Maybe I'm missing something, but couldn't you work out a pattern and arrangement that you like and make squaring cuts to mate the pieces?
Then join them with some sort of loose tenon or something?

To exaggerate, but illustrate what I mean...

A.W.D.

[Sam Murdoch]

Each of these - or 2 - on their own are more interesting than yet another rectangular table. That's not what you are asking from us but I can see tiered shelving or a very asymmetrical - turning the corner kind of table (s) . Connect with bronze or stainless rods - make a stable top(s) first then, design the base(s). My first impressions for what those are worth :rolleyes:.

[curtis rosche]

My first impressions for what those are worth :rolleyes:.

Too me they are worth their weight in diamond. They were originally harvested about 4 years ago. It started out as about 1000 pounds or more. This is a little over half of what is left. Originally harvested in the pouring rain from a polite old lady's yard.

[Sam Murdoch]

Hey Curtis - I 'm not dissing your wood or the project just offering some different ideas and acknowledging that my "impressions"/ideas might not be worth very much.

[Mel Fulks]

Most of the time when we see an unusual table made of something that rare ,we assume it is veneer. I would square up some of the pieces and resaw them Into facings aprox 1/4 inch thick. Then use them glued down ,no metal,but maybe with a contrasting wood onto some sub strat. Some chunks could be solid elements,perhaps turned spheres of your maple used in table apron ,etc. When one sees such solid wood features they automatically assume the whole table is thick solid
wood....that would not happen with metal strips between the squares. And you would have be conserving your wood.

[curtis rosche]

Hey Curtis - I 'm not dissing your wood or the project just offering some different ideas and acknowledging that my "impressions"/ideas might not be worth very much.

Sorry I misread your post. I thought you were commenting on the worth of the wood. My bad. I do greatly appriciate your input on the design

[Sam Puhalovich]

Cut-trim-fit the pieces to the shape that you want.
Bore-cut recesses at the 'touching' spots at the bottom for connector bolts.
Cut a piece of 1/2" ply to the shape ... staying 1.5" inside the shape.
Install the connector bolts.
Screw the plywood to the bottom side.
For that matter ... you could eliminate the connector bolts.

[Jim Matthews]

Tic-tac-toe frame with a plywood skin on the bottom would make an excellent torsion box.

I wouldn't do to much fitting of the top pieces, side to side - you'll lose to much material
that can't be patched. This sort of thing calls for a stout marine epoxy and some kind of splines to align pieces laterally.

I'm thinking chainsaw mortiser (http://toolmonger.com/2008/01/18/its-just-cool-chain-mortiser/), or the equivalent.

[curtis rosche]

Heres the top put together. Off to panel sand it tonight

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks for the follow-up Curtis. I wondered what you decided to do.
Fred