Fluteless gouges

[Reed Gray]

I made this clip because the fluteless gouges have become one of the tools I can't live without. Hope the moderators don't consider this an advertisement, but most who have them or similar tools just don't understand what they can do.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suRxCxdMn4k

robo hippy

[Fred Belknap]

Hippy that is a neat video, looks like something I can't live without. Appreciate the time you put in doing the video.

[Steve Schlumpf]

I've yet to use one or even see one in action... so I much appreciate you taking the time to demo the tools! Looks like a really good all-round tool!

[alex grams]

excellent video and tutorial. I had heard praises of the fluteless, so I purchased one from Thompson a few months ago, but have been so busy that I haven't gotten around to putting a handle on it. Now I need to get home and mount that sucker.

[Scott Hackler]

Interesting. I have some old Craftsman gouges that are so shallow that they might be concidered fluteless (don't use them though, the steel wont stay sharp enough!).

What is the deal with that Robust head stock? Looks liek it's laying on it's side (or is it just me)???

[Glen Blanchard]

What is the deal with that Robust head stock? Looks liek it's laying on it's side (or is it just me)???

It's not just you, Scott. It looks funky to me as well and I'm still trying to figure it out. Reed???

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Is Reed turning on the Robust lathe made for handicapped. It looks like the "sit down" lathe.

[Reed Gray]

I am turning on a Robust Liberty. It has a frequency drive motor or some thing like that, not sure of the technical terms. It applies more torque when needed, and had only one speed range. Another really nice lathe from Brent.

robo hippy

[Scott Hackler]

That's what I thought but I didn't think so after seeing Reed standing behind it and his elbow seems to be at center spindle height, so now I am not for sure.....

[John Keeton]

Scott, looks like you and Reed "crossed in cyber space!"

[robert baccus]

Thanks for the heads up Reed. Woodturners can be a tunnelvision bunch. We all need educated.

[Rich Harkrader]

So is that considered a gouge and not a scraper simply because it's made with round and not flat bar stock?

[George Overpeck]

Great video, thanks for going into all the detail of the different types.

Question - did you have the tool rest lowered to compensate for dropping the handle when you did the interior of the bowl? I get a little thrown off if the tool is off the center line.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Sigh. Now I have to spend more money on a fluteless gouge.......

Nice video. I may have to dig my spindlemaster out of the useless tool pile as well as my skewchigouge. I think I'll re-grind the skewchigouge to a more useful shape. Both of those tools gives me fits. I must say the spindlemaster makes a really nice weeder.

Never turn with cargo pants on.

[Reed Gray]

Oh, I remember now, it is a vector drive motor. Maybe the lathe looks different because it isn't my big Beauty.

I have a number of bottom feeder type tools. An old half inch bowl gouge with a ) nose profile/minimal sweep, a couple of spindle/detail/shallow fluted gouges, and the fluteless gouges. They all seem to have their uses. The thing with the detail gouges and the fluteless gouge is that you can really roll them up on their sides for a very high shear angle. The higher the shear angle, the cleaner the cut. Some thing like driving over speed bumps in the parking lots. If you hit them square you get a pretty big bump. This is similar to a scraper flat on the tool rest. If you hit them at a 45 degree angle, you get a much reduced bump. If you hit them at a steeper angle, you get less than that. Frequently in the center of the bowl, when I am using the fluteless gouge, the last quarter to 50 cent size in the center comes off in one piece rather than shavings. This is how gently the tool gets under the wood shavings and lifts it off.

I don't think the Spindle Masters would work well this way, but I don't know. I haven't tried it out. Mostly they are too thin, and the half round stock will be much more sturdy. Not sure about the skewchigouge. Being made of round stock, they should be fairly sturdy. The tips/nose profiles can be ground many different ways.

Scrapers are made from round stock, and that makes them stable in a scraping cut. I don't know why scrapers are not all made with rounded edges on the bottoms for working in a shear cut mode. I prefer them for shear scrape type cuts to a gouge. I did see Tracy Owens using his tools in San Jose, and he said they work fine as a scraper. I have not tried it. I will stick with my standard scrapers.

In the inside center cut, I do have the tool rest slightly below center. I do like to drop the handle slightly for this cut, which makes it impossible to cut above the center line of the tool. On the rim and wall of the bowl, this is not a problem, but when at the very center of the bowl, in order to cut all the way across, you have to lower the tool rest a tiny bit.

robo hippy

[Bob Bergstrom]

Reed, I always learn something from your videos and comments here on the Creek. I have the 5/8" fluteless gouge. There is a learning curve, but as you have shown will cut very cleanly. Rubbing the bevel and keeping it on the lower cutting edge are essential when using it as a gouge. Thanks again for all the time you spend making and producing these informative videos.

[Ben Darrah]

Reed,

I just got a 1/2" fluteless gouge from Doug, mostly for finishing the inside of bowls. I couldn't tell from your video, do you put a spindle gouge or bowl gouge type/length handle on yours? Thanks for the video by the way.

Thanks
Ben

[Reed Gray]

Hmm, never thought of a difference between handles. I prefer a bigger diameter handle, and longer. So, for a 1/2 inch gouge, 1 1/4 inch diameter and 12 to 16 inch length. Not sure that it makes any difference really, mostly what feels good in your hands. It doesn't need to be big as this is a finish cut tool, and not a roughing tool. I even have one where I made it from some Baltic Birch type marine grade plywood. More than enough to handle daily use.

robo hippy

[Paul Singer]

I have to say after watching your video Reed I have been using my 5/8" fluteless gouge on every think I turn now. Before the video I was wondering why I ever bought it. Thanks so much.

[Steve Mellott]

Great video and great instructional technique. Thanks.

[Ben Darrah]

Thanks Reed

[Marc Himes]

I love what works and have used scrapers quite a bit. This tool looks like a good one to try next. Thanks for the very instructive video.

[Doug Herzberg]

Something else I can't live without. Thanks, Reed.

[Ryan Baker]

I ordered a couple last night. Reed should get a commission for this. But thanks for the video Reed. It was very informative. Might be just the tool I was looking for.

[Steve Mawson]

I have had one of these for about a year. Use it a lot and might even be using more now. Thanks for the video

[Dave Carey]

Reed,
I looked at your video (several times) after seeing a reference to it in an earlier post. Then bought the tool. I love it! The learning curve is short, and the results are great. Super fine curlies and a big help on end grain. I've gone back to the video several times and learn a refinement in my technique every time. Thanks for taking the time to do this and for the "discovery"! Cheers

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Looks a lot like the Oland tool in another incarnation, and used in similar way, not much new under the sun it seems ;)

Oh just go to around-the-woods.-com. there is lots to learn and nothing to buy :)

[Brian Myers]

Reed, which size do you use more , the 1/2" or 5/8" ?

[Reed Gray]

Bryan,
For finish cuts on bowls, I use the 5/8 most of the time. I do prefer bigger and heavier tools as they fit my big paws better. If I am doing spindle work, and detail type stuff, most of the time it is the smaller tools, but I do switch back and forth.

Leo, I have seen clips of the Oland tool in use. I think of it more like a big hollowing cutter (I don't think they are over 3/8 inch, but not sure) in a bar. The nose is more U shaped and they are used as a scraper. The tool that Doug is selling is more of a ) nose profile, and intended for shear cutting. They do not make a good scraper. Not sure about the bevel angles on the Oland tool.

robo hippy

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Bryan,

Leo, I have seen clips of the Oland tool in use. I think of it more like a big hollowing cutter (I don't think they are over 3/8 inch, but not sure) in a bar. The nose is more U shaped and they are used as a scraper. The tool that Doug is selling is more of a ) nose profile, and intended for shear cutting. They do not make a good scraper. Not sure about the bevel angles on the Oland tool.

robo hippy

Reed the tool is riding the bevel and held on an angle to sheer cut, size isn't important, nose shape you can grind any which way, as suits, same with the bevel angle, and a heck of a lot cheaper I'm sure.
But like I said another reincarnation of a wood cutting tool that has been around for a long time, I don't even know if Oland was the originator of that type of tool.
Maybe it was a scraper to start of with, like you use and then found ways to make it cut rather than scrape, really the thing you have been doing for as long as I have known you, must been 20 years by now, from before when we were on the old forum with George Tokarev AKA Micky Mouse or something like that nowadays :rolleyes: :D

[Reed Gray]

Well, Leo, it might have been 10 or so years ago. I got my first computer about then. Only been turning for 17 or 18 years, can't remember any more. I was doing bevel rubbing cuts with scrapers a while ago. The old Mouse is still around on 2 other sites, and as stubborn about his turning techniques as ever. I still go a round or two with him some times.

robo hippy

[Guy Belleman]

Well, now I have seen all kinds of tool shapes used for many uses. Years ago, first teacher said the gouge was the only tool anyone needed, seemed like it was the only tool he enjoyed using, and groaned when he had to pick up a parting tool. Then I was in awe when shown that the skew could do it all in skilled hands. Then flabbergasted again with the bedan. It would seem that any sharp metal used by a skilled person can cut turning wood. Now a fluteless gouge. Does seem like a hybrid of a gouge and scraper. My tool roll is already full. Oh what do I do!

[Wells Jacobson]

Reed,
Enjoyed the video on the fluteless gouge.
Is there a reason not to sharpen it by laying it on the platform with flat side down and angle the platform down rather than up?
Wells

[Reed Gray]

If you can set your platform to a negative angle, it will work fine. Tracy Owens, who makes a finishing tool that is like a bigger version of Doug's tool (right hand, left hand and round nose) was sharpening his with the flat side down when I saw him in San Jose. Main reason to do it flat side down would be that it won't roll as you sharpen. I never had any problem with keeping it steady though. I would expect a better burr from having the round side down. Especially with the CBN wheels, you would get more of a burnished effect than a thin wire that might break off. Haven't really tested that out though.

robo hippy

[Dwight Rutherford]

After watching Reed's video, I bought all three. Really like them, but I was having a hard time free hand sharpening them evenly. Came up with these. Don't know why, but the pics are upside down.

[Stan Smith]

That's an interesting and nicely done video, robo hippy. I have a Hamlet gouge for sale in the classifieds which is very similar to the one you use 7 minutes into your video where you make some plunge cuts on the bowl bottom. I just do small stuff now with a mini lathe. I'm just getting into carbide tools so I'm cutting way back on my tool inventory. I miss using a larger lathe, but am stuck with space restrictions, now.

[Wells Jacobson]

Thanks Reed

[mike ash]

Well, Reed just cost me another piece of my wallet......I just got off the phone with Doug and have a package on its way!! Reed hosted me in his shop a couple of years ago and of course I got to see some of his tools, tecniques and ideas. The fluteless gouge was one of the things that caught my eye, but I had forgotten it until yesterday when I was not getting the results I was looking for in finishing the bowl bottom. BINGO, up pops Reed's video and good bye to my $$$$'.

Mike

[Stan Smith]

Well, now I have seen all kinds of tool shapes used for many uses. Years ago, first teacher said the gouge was the only tool anyone needed, seemed like it was the only tool he enjoyed using, and groaned when he had to pick up a parting tool. Then I was in awe when shown that the skew could do it all in skilled hands. Then flabbergasted again with the bedan. It would seem that any sharp metal used by a skilled person can cut turning wood. Now a fluteless gouge. Does seem like a hybrid of a gouge and scraper. My tool roll is already full. Oh what do I do!

I think you answered your own question, Guy. ...."all in skilled hands." I watched a video of a guy turn an egg with a bedan tool so I had to have one. I've been discovering the carbide tip tools, via Harrison Specialties and Easy Tools. Now I'm partial to them due to the easy learning curved and results I get from them. I'm going to have to sell off some of my other chisels that I probably won't be using any more. I think that some folks just get used to/and skilled with certain tools and continue to use them which makes me envious. My own experience has been that more tools do not improve my turning abilities, but particular tools may--if I learn how to use them. :)