Daniel Rode
09-18-2013, 1:10 PM
For the last month or two, I've been focused on hand tool. I've been reading, experimenting, watching videos and asking lots of questions here.
Sharpening
From the beginning, I realized that sharp tools were absolutely critical and being able to efficiently sharpen was the key. I learned a lot about sharpening my chisels and irons. The final couple of pieces came together last night watching Chris Schwarz sharpening tutorial video. I'm more concerned with method than media and his method is very similar to what I'm doing now. Some other methods may be as goodor even more effective but are quite different. I believe I'm better served by improving upon a skill I have. At any rate, the proof is in the pudding. Chris makes clean cuts from sharp blades, so it works. Learning how (and why) to camber the blade on a smoothing plane was one of the really big pieces I got last night.
Saws
Since my plan is to learn to hand cut dovetails and tenons, clean, accurate cuts with a hand saw will be imperative. Unfortunately, I discovered that I knew almost nothing about hand saws. I've been working with wood since I was a teen, you'd figure I would have learned something. You'd be wrong...
I know there were rip and crosscut saws, larger and smaller saws, push saws and pull saws, saws with a spine and without but that's really the extent of my knowledge. I don't know much but I know a little more than I knew a month ago. While I've done a bunch of reading elsewhere, I learned more here than anywhere else. I'll also give some credit to the Paul Sellers videos and a handful of others.
Watching skilled woodworkers choose and use a saw helps a lot. More than cutting joints accurately, I'm seeing that a hand saw is often the fastest and most accurate way to make cuts. Making small miters, for example. A table saw or miter saw can be a terrifying way to cut a 1" long piece of moulding. It's also tough to be accurate and not get blowouts. I watched Bob Lang, do this with a miter bench hook and a shooting board to tune up the fit. Fast, accurate, safe and quiet.
However, I lack both skill and saws. For right now, I'll concentrate on acquiring a single quality saw to cut dovetails and shorter tenons and learning how to use it well. Luckily, I have a cheap Crown gent saw that's enough to get me started already.
Planes
Planes are simple; planes are hard. I gained a lot of confidence watching Paul Sellers do it all with a #4. That has been reinforced by what I've read and watched from Chris Schwarz and others. Since I'll mostly use my power jointer and planer to square and dimension wood, I don't need 10 planes. Again, thanks to CS, the last couple of pieces I needed fell into place last night. Beyond sharpening, setting up a smoothing plane for use is critical. I've been struggling to get this part right. It's one of those routine things that needs to be done and done well before using the tool. Do this, look for that, lather, rinse. repeat. I need some practice but I feel like I have the steps down. I'm confident that one I camber the blade and work through the setup steps, I'll start getting the consistent results I desire.
I also discovered that a router plane and a cabinet scraper are incredibly useful. The former for fitting tenons, making dados and other stuff, the latter as something I'd prefer to a card scraper in many instances. Neither are critical at this stage but I'll add them one day.
I discovered that, tuned up and sharpened, my stanley block plane is pretty darned useful as is my super-cheap, plastic tote, Stanley #4. The new WoodRiver #4 is a whole lot nicer to handle and adjust, tho.
Workbench
I have a Sjobergs workbench top that I bought several years ago and made legs and a cabinet. Even though I might prefer different side vice, it's enough to do anything I want as is. Up until now, it was used more as an assembly bench that a hand too workbench. I made 2 improvements to make it more efficient for me to work by hand. First was the location. It was centered on my shop (garage) back wall and about 4' from the wall (and tool storage) with the side vice facing the wall. That worked OK for assembly and general woodworking. After some experimentation, I determined that it was best located almost against the wall with the side vice facing out. It turned out the the maximum distance I could reach across the bench and comfortably reach for tools in the wall was 32". I added a 8" tool tray and put the front edge of the bench at 29". In a stroke of luck, the lighting was already ideal for this setup and needed no changes.
The location is a very personal choice based on what was comfortable for me, the other constraints and tools in my shop and what was important to me. Easy cleanup and comfortable natural movements to retrieve and replace tools were at the top of my list. Same for the tool tray. I've never use one before but considering how I will work, what tools and the location of the bench, the tool tray made a lot of sense for me. YMMV.
Miscellaneous Stuff
Laying out and cutting dovetails by hand is fairly straightforward. Straightforward does not mean easy. Doing it well it definitely not easy. It is, however, just a matter of practice and experience. ...and a dividers. I have no dividers to aid in the layout. Gotta put that on the list, too. The same is true for hand cut M&T joints.
I'm older with poorer eyesight. several years ago, before I took a hiatus from woodworking, I didn't need glasses at all. Today, I can't read a menu, let along a ruler without them. The tolerances I'm attempting are closer, so good lighting, and keen eyesight are really important. I might even go with glasses that magnify things a bit for the shop.
The older I get the less I like sanding, especially power sanding. It's not the process, it's the dust and the fuzzy surfaces it leaves. If I can get the skill built, 80% of my sanding would be replaced by planing along with some chisel and scraper works. My lungs like this idea.
There's more, but that's all I can remember for right now. It's been a busy month.
Sharpening
From the beginning, I realized that sharp tools were absolutely critical and being able to efficiently sharpen was the key. I learned a lot about sharpening my chisels and irons. The final couple of pieces came together last night watching Chris Schwarz sharpening tutorial video. I'm more concerned with method than media and his method is very similar to what I'm doing now. Some other methods may be as goodor even more effective but are quite different. I believe I'm better served by improving upon a skill I have. At any rate, the proof is in the pudding. Chris makes clean cuts from sharp blades, so it works. Learning how (and why) to camber the blade on a smoothing plane was one of the really big pieces I got last night.
Saws
Since my plan is to learn to hand cut dovetails and tenons, clean, accurate cuts with a hand saw will be imperative. Unfortunately, I discovered that I knew almost nothing about hand saws. I've been working with wood since I was a teen, you'd figure I would have learned something. You'd be wrong...
I know there were rip and crosscut saws, larger and smaller saws, push saws and pull saws, saws with a spine and without but that's really the extent of my knowledge. I don't know much but I know a little more than I knew a month ago. While I've done a bunch of reading elsewhere, I learned more here than anywhere else. I'll also give some credit to the Paul Sellers videos and a handful of others.
Watching skilled woodworkers choose and use a saw helps a lot. More than cutting joints accurately, I'm seeing that a hand saw is often the fastest and most accurate way to make cuts. Making small miters, for example. A table saw or miter saw can be a terrifying way to cut a 1" long piece of moulding. It's also tough to be accurate and not get blowouts. I watched Bob Lang, do this with a miter bench hook and a shooting board to tune up the fit. Fast, accurate, safe and quiet.
However, I lack both skill and saws. For right now, I'll concentrate on acquiring a single quality saw to cut dovetails and shorter tenons and learning how to use it well. Luckily, I have a cheap Crown gent saw that's enough to get me started already.
Planes
Planes are simple; planes are hard. I gained a lot of confidence watching Paul Sellers do it all with a #4. That has been reinforced by what I've read and watched from Chris Schwarz and others. Since I'll mostly use my power jointer and planer to square and dimension wood, I don't need 10 planes. Again, thanks to CS, the last couple of pieces I needed fell into place last night. Beyond sharpening, setting up a smoothing plane for use is critical. I've been struggling to get this part right. It's one of those routine things that needs to be done and done well before using the tool. Do this, look for that, lather, rinse. repeat. I need some practice but I feel like I have the steps down. I'm confident that one I camber the blade and work through the setup steps, I'll start getting the consistent results I desire.
I also discovered that a router plane and a cabinet scraper are incredibly useful. The former for fitting tenons, making dados and other stuff, the latter as something I'd prefer to a card scraper in many instances. Neither are critical at this stage but I'll add them one day.
I discovered that, tuned up and sharpened, my stanley block plane is pretty darned useful as is my super-cheap, plastic tote, Stanley #4. The new WoodRiver #4 is a whole lot nicer to handle and adjust, tho.
Workbench
I have a Sjobergs workbench top that I bought several years ago and made legs and a cabinet. Even though I might prefer different side vice, it's enough to do anything I want as is. Up until now, it was used more as an assembly bench that a hand too workbench. I made 2 improvements to make it more efficient for me to work by hand. First was the location. It was centered on my shop (garage) back wall and about 4' from the wall (and tool storage) with the side vice facing the wall. That worked OK for assembly and general woodworking. After some experimentation, I determined that it was best located almost against the wall with the side vice facing out. It turned out the the maximum distance I could reach across the bench and comfortably reach for tools in the wall was 32". I added a 8" tool tray and put the front edge of the bench at 29". In a stroke of luck, the lighting was already ideal for this setup and needed no changes.
The location is a very personal choice based on what was comfortable for me, the other constraints and tools in my shop and what was important to me. Easy cleanup and comfortable natural movements to retrieve and replace tools were at the top of my list. Same for the tool tray. I've never use one before but considering how I will work, what tools and the location of the bench, the tool tray made a lot of sense for me. YMMV.
Miscellaneous Stuff
Laying out and cutting dovetails by hand is fairly straightforward. Straightforward does not mean easy. Doing it well it definitely not easy. It is, however, just a matter of practice and experience. ...and a dividers. I have no dividers to aid in the layout. Gotta put that on the list, too. The same is true for hand cut M&T joints.
I'm older with poorer eyesight. several years ago, before I took a hiatus from woodworking, I didn't need glasses at all. Today, I can't read a menu, let along a ruler without them. The tolerances I'm attempting are closer, so good lighting, and keen eyesight are really important. I might even go with glasses that magnify things a bit for the shop.
The older I get the less I like sanding, especially power sanding. It's not the process, it's the dust and the fuzzy surfaces it leaves. If I can get the skill built, 80% of my sanding would be replaced by planing along with some chisel and scraper works. My lungs like this idea.
There's more, but that's all I can remember for right now. It's been a busy month.