Steel City 35915G, 3HP, 220V, w/50" fence... $800?!?!

[Michael Dunn]

I live within 30 miles of the Bolingbrook, IL warehouse. I'm going to check this out later today or perhaps tomorrow. Is it just me or is this a steel? (Pun intended...)

It says "assembled, new, w/o box."

I've read a lot of good reviews about STCW. What are you recent thoughts guys?

[Brett Robson]

Sounds like a deal to me! I have a SC 3hp cab saw and love it. I'd love it more if it'd been $800!

[Michael Dunn]

Sounds like a deal to me! I have a SC 3hp cab saw and love it. I'd love it more if it'd been $800!

How is the dust collection below the saw? I've been thinking about the Grizzly 1023RLX. The two seem apples to apples except for the encapsulated DC.

[Michael Dunn]

Anyone else? Thought or opinions on this saw?

[Joseph Tarantino]

that SC is a granite topped saw. no magnetic featherboards for that one.

[Michael Dunn]

Good to know. I didn't think of that. I do have the Grip-Tite mag featherboards, but have yet to use them much on the TS. Mostly on my BS. Do you have any experience with the Steel City brand? Is this a good saw? Not just for the money...

[Brett Robson]

The dust collection is average I'd say. The blade isn't in a shroud like some have, so you'll still get some dust above the table. I don't have room for a huge dust collection system, just a 1.5hp single stage collector. With that, I'd guess it captures 75% of the sawdust. It's certainly better than what I had with my old contractor saw.

I think the trade off of no shroud is small offcuts or slivers of waste that drop through the table insert just drop harmlessly down as opposed to getting stuck in the shroud.

Steel City makes decent tools which are a good value for the money. I consider them a step up from Grizzly as the fit and finish is quite a bit better. I have 4 of their machines now and considering purchasing their 8" jointer.

[scott spencer]

I'm not familiar with that model....it could be a nice deal, but it's worth noting that SC did make some 3hp saws that were beefed up versions of their hybrid design with cabinet mounted trunnions, but had a 3hp motor instead of the 1.75hp. Does it include a true riving knife, or does it have the older style splitter? New in box is better than all beat up, but does it include any warranty? If not, it has the same inherent risks as a used saw, but with no proof that it actually works properly. I'd want to know what recourse I'd have it it's not right when fired up. All things I'd want to check into.

[Michael Dunn]

I'm not familiar with that model....it could be a nice deal, but it's worth noting that SC did make some 3hp saws that were beefed up versions of their hybrid design with cabinet mounted trunnions, but had a 3hp motor instead of the 1.75hp. Does it include a true riving knife, or does it have the older style splitter? New in box is better than all beat up, but does it include any warranty? If not, it has the same inherent risks as a used saw, but with no proof that it actually works properly. I'd want to know what recourse I'd have it it's not right when fired up. All things I'd want to check into.

I'm going to check it out on Monday. It comes with a 6 month warranty. All units are fully assembled.

Here is the saw... Except the one I'm looking at has a 50" fence and a granite top.

I'm torn now, only because I won't be able to use magnetic jigs on the saw top.

[Michael Dunn]

This one, but with a 50" fence...

http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/products_tools.cfm?category=12&section=2&tool=35905G

[Michael Dunn]

This one, but with a 50" fence...

http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/products_tools.cfm?category=12&section=2&tool=35905G

Yes, it does have a true diving knife and not just a splitter.

[Brett Robson]

I'd suggest checking to see if that saw has the new guard assembly. The new style clips on the top of the riving knife along with the kickback fingers. You can remove and install them both in a matter of seconds.

The old style guard is the big plastic hood - you don't want that one if you can avoid it.

This is the saw I have. It has the new style guard.
http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/products/35965/35965_closeup.jpg

[scott spencer]

Seems like a lot of saw for $800.

[Michael Dunn]

Seems like a lot of saw for $800.

Indeed. My thoughts exactly.

Now I'm torn between the granite top w/50" fence and the CI top with 50" fence. $800 for the GR and $1100 for the CI.

Someone pointed out the magnetic issue. $1100 is still a great deal.

Thoughts?

[Joseph Tarantino]

hard to chip CI. easier to chip/crack granite. if you knew SC just reduced their new tool warranty from 5 years to 2, how would that affect a purchase decision?

[Michael Dunn]

hard to chip CI. easier to chip/crack granite. if you knew SC just reduced their new tool warranty from 5 years to 2, how would that affect a purchase decision?

That's a disappointing piece of info. Hmmm... What do you think about the Grizzly 1023RLX? What is Grizzly warranty?

[Brett Robson]

That's a disappointing piece of info. Hmmm... What do you think about the Grizzly 1023RLX? What is Grizzly warranty?

Grizz has a 1 year warranty.

[Michael Dunn]

So what saw should I buy?!?!? Agh!!! I'm so torn. This will be the last saw I buy (for a while) most likely. Decisions decisions...

[Michael Dunn]

So what is it exactly that distinguishes a hybrid saw from a cabinet saw? The trunnions and they're mounting style? SCTW advertises these saws as cabinet saws.

I'm leaning towards the CI top w/50" fence ATM.

[Brett Robson]

I think you'd be happy with either one. They both are similar saws with similar specs made by companies competing for the same section of the market.

If I recall correctly, Grizzly uses a trunnion system similar to that of the old Unisaws - a tried and true setup to be sure.

SC suspends the motor from the trunnions inline with the blade for smooth operation and no clunking on startup.

The Grizz is more of a "traditional" cabinet saw- cast iron table, old school design save for the blade shroud and the modern riving knife.

SC is a bit more contemporary. They obviously use the granite and have seamless tops where the extension wings bolt to the main table and form the miter slot. This means no seam and you can adjust the miter slot width if ever you need to.

I've had a few Grizzly products over the years and while they all have functioned fine, I've noticed they often have warts of cast iron where a section of the sand mold collapsed before casting. Grizzly will just machine them with all the rest and squirt the parts green. Everything Grizzly I've had has shown poor paint application with the machine coming out of the crate with paint chips and sections of missing finish. While these blemishes are only cosmetic, it's still nice to have a new machine that looks new and well made.

SC, at least as far as the 4 machines I own goes, has better QC. The finishes appear to be either powder coat or some manner of baked on enamel. I've not seen any casting flaws on the machines I own. I just feel the finish of the machines is quite a bit better than the Grizzly stuff. Of course this in only my opinion and your results may vary.

As for the cast or granite decision, that's up to you. I selected a full granite top for my new saw because my old saw'd CI top had bowed down in the middle. Of course the granite can chip if you're not careful but you can mitigate the risk by removing the T-slot washer from your miter gauges. If you're already heavily vested in magnetic jigs and featherboards, well then CI is probably the way to go. I rarely use featherboards on the tablesaw and I have a couple that lock into the miter slot for the rare occasion that I need one so the magnetic issue was a moot point.

If you've read about SC at all, you've probably already seen numerous posts speculating about the solvency of the company. SC did have some major supply chain problems a few years back but they're still here despite a recession and their own internal problems. I've seen they are launching a new "blue" line of tools here this month which suggests they aren't in eminent danger.

So ya. Get whichever one best suits your needs. Remember though, we require pictures or the purchase never happened! :)

[Brett Robson]

So what is it exactly that distinguishes a hybrid saw from a cabinet saw? The trunnions and they're mounting style? SCTW advertises these saws as cabinet saws.

I'm leaning towards the CI top w/50" fence ATM.

Your hybrid saws usually have 110v motors in the ballpark of 1.5 - 1.75 hp.

[Mel Fulks]

The hybrids can't breed ....so you have to BUY replacements .

[scott spencer]

I think you'd be happy with either one. They both are similar saws with similar specs made by companies competing for the same section of the market.

If I recall correctly, Grizzly uses a trunnion system similar to that of the old Unisaws - a tried and true setup to be sure.

SC suspends the motor from the trunnions inline with the blade for smooth operation and no clunking on startup.

The Grizz is more of a "traditional" cabinet saw- cast iron table, old school design save for the blade shroud and the modern riving knife.



The G0690 fits that description, but not the G1023RL. It's sort of an irony, since the G1023 uses the same model number as their older design. The new G1023"RL" series uses a vertical elevation gear and dovetail ways to support and move the arbor, as well as a modern serpentine drive belt....it's a pretty slick updated design IMO.

G0690/691:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/sawparts/Slide1-3.jpg

G1023RL/W/X:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/sawparts/g1023rl_det1.jpg

original G1023 based on the Unisaw design:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/sawparts/g1023s_trunnion.jpg

Hybrids generally have a lighter duty rating and smaller motors, but there are no standard definitions, so the marketers have a field day.

[Michael Dunn]

I pulled the trigger. I ended up going with the CI top, 3HP, 220V, 50" rail, laminate extension w/legs, and phenolic ZCI.

I talked them down to $1000 out the door. The ZCI was a bonus. I fired it up and inspected things thoroughly. It sure looks like a great saw. They said almost all of the returns are due to shipping damage. Certainly possible.

I came pretty close to buying a 3 phase, 7.5HP CI top with 30" for $1759. More than I can justify at this time.

I'm signing the lease on my shop tonight or tomorrow pending scheduling availability.

[Brett Robson]

Sounds like a great deal, I'm sure you'll love it!

[scott spencer]

Nice deal....congrats!

[Michael Dunn]

My shop is complete... I signed the lease last night and I'm all moved in...


LOL!!!

[scott spencer]

That poor saw looks lonely...lonely...lonely. Hello.....hello....hello....anyone there?....anyone there?....anyone there? ! :D

[Michael Dunn]

Building TWW's lumber rack, putting up some pegboard, by some, I mean an absolute crapload of it. 25 sheets... To start. Me likes to hang things. Then to assemble me new SCTW saw, then build and assembly table, install a couple French doors between the main shop area and the 'assembly area', and one from the assembly area to the 'finishing' area. In quote because I'm not 100% decided on the purpose those two rooms will serve.

Pics..

I'm torn as to where I should put the DC. I just order the CVMAX (10% off and free shipping for the 5 6" blast gates... Woo hoo!!!) I'm thinking right next to the breaker box. Easy 220V. I'd really like it to be in the small nook which is 3.5'x8.5'. I'd really like to enclose the DC. This space is quite reverberant and my ears have little tolerance for unnecessary noise let alone a 3.5 second decay due to the impulse response of the room.

Any thoughts? I'll upload a rough shop layout later...

I'm thinking the table saw roughly where it currently is. The jointer along the right wall just beyond the lumber rack, then perhaps the WM-718.

The left wall is just screaming for tons of shop built wall cabinets and a dedicated MS or RAS station. Shelving/storage beneath the stairs.

[johnny means]

Just a thought, but granite did go out of vogue pretty quickly. Cast iron after generations is still the material of choice. There is something to be said about the collective wisdom of the craftsmen culture.

[eugene thomas]

congrats on saw and shop, my only advice would be to get or build good work bench., will make life so much easier in shop

[Michael Dunn]

congrats on saw and shop, my only advice would be to get or build good work bench., will make life so much easier in shop

I'll finally have the room. Now, if I could find the time. I'll probably build the roubo workbench eventually.

[David C. Roseman]

My shop is complete... I signed the lease last night and I'm all moved in...


LOL!!!

Congratulations, Michael! That's a big step, and you seem to have the boundless energy to make this work. Fun to see you sharing your progress on SMC as you do this. Look forward to future reports, so we can all make the journey with you. "Success has many fathers..." ;)

David

[Joseph Tarantino]

you bought a scissor lift too?

[Michael Dunn]

you bought a scissor lift too?

LOL!!! No. The owner is having some work done in the next space over from me. The contractors are leaving the lift in my space until hopefully no longer ban Friday.

Anyone know how much used forklifts to for? My lumber yard delivers with a 53' trailer. I'll have to unload it by hand unless I have a forklift. Probably prohibitively expensive At this time.

[Keith Outten]

Michael,

I use to own and operate a lumber kiln many years ago and we unloaded tractor trailers manually in those days. I was much younger then however I still made a mistake losing so many hours lifting and moving lumber without a machine. Now I own a JD Tractor with a front end loader and pallet forks which I use to do 99% of my lifting, moving and unloading chores. If you can't find a deal on a used forklift you might be able to find a tractor in your local area.

One more thing.....get one of the mini pallet jacks from either Grizzly or Northern Tools. The mini will handle 1100 pounds and stores easily under or behind just about any machine since the forks are only 48" long. The hydraulic tables from Harbor Freight or Northern Tools are also worth a look, I own four of them that I use almost constantly for a variety of tasks.
.

[Michael W. Clark]

Anyone know how much used forklifts to for? My lumber yard delivers with a 53' trailer. I'll have to unload it by hand unless I have a forklift. Probably prohibitively expensive At this time.

My experience on used fork lifts is that they are for sale because they are worn out. If you find one at an auction or something due to a plant closure, maybe it is worth it, but be preparied for the maintenance costs. We leased a lot of ours and had maintenance contracts on the others. We had a fleet of about 16-18 in a foundry environment, so we were very rough on them.

It may be worth it to rent a forklift and a pallet jack (or buy a pallet jack as Keith says) for the move though depending on how your access is to the new shop. I thought I saw where you said it had a loading dock? Probably not worth it for a hobbyist, but since this is your business, you can put a $$ amount to your time.

Most bulk lumber deliveries that I have seen was side loaded on a flatbed. If you have a dock, it will take some finess with longer boards?

[Michael Dunn]

Good idea Keith! I didn't even think of that. A pallet jack will do just fine I believe.

@ Michael: I have a 14' door, but its not a dock.

Actually, a pallet jack may not help me at all. I'll see tomorrow. It should've been here today, but someone left the order as will call min spite of him even asking me if I can accept a 53' trailer.

So frustrating.

[Michael W. Clark]

I was thinking pallet jack for your move, not for unloading lumber. Since it is not a dock, you can drive in with the lift.

[Michael Dunn]

I was thinking pallet jack for your move, not for unloading lumber. Since it is not a dock, you can drive in with the lift.

Cool. That'll surely help out tomorrow with the move. My buddy, who is helping me tomorrow, is snagging one off CL for me in the AM and heading over.