Mark Walden
09-09-2013, 1:20 PM
This is a Triton 21/4 hp router with a stepper motor to raise and lower it. All though stepper motors are used in CNC machinery I didn’t list it there because you can do the
same thing with a 12 or 24volt DC motor. But you have to remember that the way this is mounted the motor goes up and down with the router so you don’t want something too heavy hanging off the bottom of the router. Stepper motors have a lot of torque for their size and have a electric brake to hold the router in position when you use it.
So here is what I did, mounted a ¼ in aluminum plate to the bottom with the screws that hold the cover on the speed control. I drilled holes in the plate and used spacers to permit air flow. I added 2 more brackets [the black ones] from the plate to the screws that hold the router together for extra support. I removed the adjustment knob from the router, installed a1/4 x 6mm flexible coupling from the adjustment shaft on the router to the motor. Mounted the motor wired it up and were up and running, it will go from 0 to 460 RPM with instant reverse other wise no need to stop the motor to change directions.
I would like to add a digital readout to know how far the router bit moves, and a limit switch to stop the motor when it gets high enough to change bits.
All the parts came from eBay the motor was $10.00 the TB6560 stepper driver board was $13.00, the reversible speed controller was $38.00 from bellevue2046 also off eBay. [I personally would not buy anything from Bellevue2046 bad experience and you can get it cheaper] I tried to cover everything but I probably didn’t so it you have any questions I would happy to answer.
One last thing if you noticed the air regulator on the side, it has nothing to do with the motor to raise and lower the router. It is for air brakes, you have your Kenworth, Mac, Peterbuilt and all your big rigs with air brakes. My router table has air brakes, when you flip the toggle valve it lowers 2 air cylinders, one front left, one back right to keep it from moving. You pull it away from the wall hit the valve run your work through, turn the valve off and push it back. Sure beats trying to get to the brakes on casters.
same thing with a 12 or 24volt DC motor. But you have to remember that the way this is mounted the motor goes up and down with the router so you don’t want something too heavy hanging off the bottom of the router. Stepper motors have a lot of torque for their size and have a electric brake to hold the router in position when you use it.
So here is what I did, mounted a ¼ in aluminum plate to the bottom with the screws that hold the cover on the speed control. I drilled holes in the plate and used spacers to permit air flow. I added 2 more brackets [the black ones] from the plate to the screws that hold the router together for extra support. I removed the adjustment knob from the router, installed a1/4 x 6mm flexible coupling from the adjustment shaft on the router to the motor. Mounted the motor wired it up and were up and running, it will go from 0 to 460 RPM with instant reverse other wise no need to stop the motor to change directions.
I would like to add a digital readout to know how far the router bit moves, and a limit switch to stop the motor when it gets high enough to change bits.
All the parts came from eBay the motor was $10.00 the TB6560 stepper driver board was $13.00, the reversible speed controller was $38.00 from bellevue2046 also off eBay. [I personally would not buy anything from Bellevue2046 bad experience and you can get it cheaper] I tried to cover everything but I probably didn’t so it you have any questions I would happy to answer.
One last thing if you noticed the air regulator on the side, it has nothing to do with the motor to raise and lower the router. It is for air brakes, you have your Kenworth, Mac, Peterbuilt and all your big rigs with air brakes. My router table has air brakes, when you flip the toggle valve it lowers 2 air cylinders, one front left, one back right to keep it from moving. You pull it away from the wall hit the valve run your work through, turn the valve off and push it back. Sure beats trying to get to the brakes on casters.