Advice on mounting live edge slab mantel to brick fireplace...

[Michael Dunn]

So I'm building a live edge poplar slab mantel and have to fasten it to a brick fireplace.

I've never mounting anything this large and heavy to brick so I'm asking advice if someone her has done this before.

[Sam Murdoch]

You don't say what size mantel you will actually be dealing with but here are a few approaches.

Often this is anticipated and there is wood blocking set into the face. Can some bricks be removed and such blocking be epoxied or urethaned and mechanically fastened into place? Otherwise you are looking at lead shields and perhaps a metal angle lagged into place on which you can support the mantel or some substantial connector bolts being inserted into the brick. You would then slide the mantel over these connector bolts (threaded rod) and attach with nuts and washers hidden in pockets in the mantel.

[Kevin Bourque]

You could take a masonry drill bit and make some holes in the brick. Insert dowels or bolts into the holes. Then drill matching holes in the back of the slab and push the mantle into place. You might consider gluing the dowels/bolts in place or just glue the back of the slab to the brick with construction adhesive.

You could also use angle iron but it would have to be a pretty substantial piece to hold that much weight without sagging eventually, not to mention you'll see it.

[Michael Dunn]

Approximately 72"x8"x1-3/4"

[Garth Almgren]

You could take a masonry drill bit and make some holes in the brick. Insert dowels or bolts into the holes. Then drill matching holes in the back of the slab and push the mantle into place. You might consider gluing the dowels/bolts in place or just glue the back of the slab to the brick with construction adhesive.

This is similar to what my dad and I did to mount a mantle on his 1950s stone fireplace. Drilled 4 holes with a hammer drill and masonry bit, then pounded in some steel bar set in construction adhesive. The mantle had slots to receive the bars, and it's held our stockings up at Christmas very well for the last 20 years.

[Jim Andrew]

I built a mantle for a guy with no brackets for his brick fireplace. I cut a piece of 2x4 for him to anchor to the face with screws and anchors, and built a mantle that had a hollow center that was 3 1/2 x the length of the 2x4. That way he could just slide the mantle over the 2x4 and shoot some finish nails through the mantle into the 2x4.

[Michael Dunn]

I have some 3/8" diameter steel rod. How deep into the brick did you drill? The way you describe it makes it seem like the mantel could just slide off the steel rods. Is that correct or did you epoxy the rods into holes in the slab?

[Von Bickley]

Michael,

1/4" toggle bolts can hold a lot of weight.

[Michael Dunn]

Michael,

1/4" toggle bolts can hold a lot of weight.

Toggle bolts into brick?

[Von Bickley]

Toggle bolts into brick?

Through the brick wall. Have done it many times to mount electrical equipment.

[Brett Bobo]

The mortar joints are typically the recommended locations for light duty installations but my recommendation would be to attach back to structure. There are too many variables with residential brick and mortar to rely on that solely, particularly if installing in a client's home. Similar to the concept of bed bolts, hangar bolts or threaded rod (galvanized, preferably) epoxied into the structure is a good option and corresponding holes and pockets for washer and nuts. After installation, you can plug the holes on the underside of the mantle to cover the washers and nuts.

From a code perspective, be sure you verify the necessary clearances around the firebox since you're obviously using combustible material. It might seem trite, but even an inspection on a resale could make this an issue.

[Michael Dunn]

What if I rip a few inches of the slab of with my TS-75, anchor that to the brick, then use dominos to join the slab to the mounting cleat?

[Sam Murdoch]

What if I rip a few inches of the slab of with my TS-75, anchor that to the brick, then use dominos to join the slab to the mounting cleat?

The challenge with this plan is pulling your 2 pieces together tightly for a solid glue up and the dominos will align but they won't add much strength.

You might get away with this if you anchored the bigger portion to the wall (like 6-1/2" to 7" of the 8" depth) then just add the front rip on using the dominos. This will cover the nuts and bolts of your assembly and leave the major part of the mantel well fixed to the wall. Still might be an issue to get the front piece pulled in tight but it will be easier if it is just an edge rather than most of the mantel.

[Peter Quinn]

I've made a few but hung none. I usually ask the contractor "How are you planning on keeping this on the wall?" Often on a complete remodel the solution has been built into the process, right back to framing, through the brick, big steel rods, threaded rod, steel gas pipe. I'm not trusting dominos to hold a big slab to the wall. And trusting the bricks is a good way to get that call on Christmas eve some years down the road......"Hi Michael...your mantel just landed on my granddaughter....." Don't go there. No shear strength.

The greater the projection the larger the problem. I had a friend hang one using 3/4" schedule 40 black steel pipe, he drilled through the brick, centered on a stud, epoxied the whole mess into the wall and into the mantel. Seemed to work well.

[Danny Hamsley]

I have done it like Kevin said. Drill hole in masonry with masonry bit. Insert threaded rod, say 1/2" diameter. Drill corresponding hole in mantel. Slide mantel on threaded rod. Threads on the rod create a friction fit. You can glue corbels under the mantle it you want them to make it look like the corbels are holding up the mantel.

[Michael Dunn]

I have done it like Kevin said. Drill hole in masonry with masonry bit. Insert threaded rod, say 1/2" diameter. Drill corresponding hole in mantel. Slide mantel on threaded rod. Threads on the rod create a friction fit. You can glue corbels under the mantle it you want them to make it look like the corbels are holding up the mantel.

That thread rod idea makes the most sense. How far into brick should I go? Do I epoxy the threaded rod into the hole in the brick? What secures it?

[Garth Almgren]

If you're asking me, we drilled in about 3-4 inches IIRC - and it was into skinny stone not brick (very similar to this (http://picklemedia1.scrippsnetworks.com/pickle_media1/media/HGTV/090103/Photo_Video_414610243_medium.JPG?0)). We tried to drill horizontal or at a very slight downward angle, so the mantel is really only being held on with it's own weight. I suppose you could slide it right off if you pulled, but it hasn't budged since the early 90s.

[Brett Bobo]

How far into brick should I go? Do I epoxy the threaded rod into the hole in the brick?

The threaded rod should go through the brick and directly into the studs (structure) with epoxy. Depending on the bed depth of the brick, likely less than 3", it'll be simpler to apply the epoxy to the end of the threaded rod (measure the projection to the face of the brick) before inserting it. Marking this location will also ensure you that the threaded rod is fully seated into the studs. Similarly, apply a small amount of epoxy on the opposite end of the threaded rods to secure the mantle in place.

[Michael Dunn]

Ok, so how do I find the studs through brick? I have a stud finder with a deep scan option. I cannot imagine that it would work through a couple inches of brick. If I am missing something here, I apologize for my ignorance.

Thanx for all the tips guys!

I hope to complete this installation tomorrow, pending my clients availability.

[Brett Bobo]

That's a fair question and you'll want to least intrusive option, if possible, so start with your stud finder. There should be metal brick ties that tie the brick wall back to the studs so the goal of using the stud finder is to find the brick ties, which will result in a stud location. Otherwise, you'll have to get creative. Look for the closest wall outlet, switch, etc. on the wall and measure off from there to approximate the locations. Stud spacing rarely matches what it should be per code so again, approximate the location and then drill pilot holes at the location of the mantle. A coat hanger can be your friend here so with a few holes, you should be able to locate at least one stud and adjust accordingly from there.

[Ira Matheny]

I would locate the structural framing and firmly attach to that. I would never trust hanging anything substantial on brick, as they held in place with only mortar. There should be a framed 'header' above the fireplace opening. I would attach firmly to the structure.