Looking for suggestions

[Von Bickley]

I would appreciate any input…..
Making plans to build a new router table. What I have now is just a piece of birch plywood covered with a piece of formica on four legs. I have a ¼” piece of lexan for a router plate and I clamp a straight edge to it when I need a fence. My new table top will be approximately 24” X 36”. Please give me your suggestions and pictures if you have them.
1. What size is your table?
2. What material did you use for the top?
3. Do you have a miter slot and if you do, do you use it?
4. How far is the miter slot from the center of the router?


Another question concerning 14” bandsaws. What is your favorite blade for the bandsaw?
Type of blade, size and number of teeth? For general use for cutting curves and circles…..
No re-sawing.


Thanks for any and all suggestions……

[Lee Schierer]

Depending upon the weight of your router, the 1/4" lexan may sag when used as an insert in a router table.

My router table top is 3/4" plywood with 3 coats of polyurethane on it.

[Ray Newman]

One of these days, I am going to build an improved router table from these plans:
www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/shop-projects/jims-redesigned-router-table-part-2-2 (http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/shop-projects/jims-redesigned-router-table-part-2-2)

PDF plans for above table:
http://d2amilv9vi9flo.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2010/10//deluxe-router-table.pdf

I like the design as it one large pull-out on each side to accommodate bits, wrenches, etc., instead of a series of drawers.

[Myk Rian]

I'd go 3/8" Lexan, minimum. Or get an insert plate, which is the better choice since it will accept guides.
Mine is 24" X 36" made of 2 sheets of 3/4" MDF, glued convex sides )( together.
First picture is before adding the miter and T tracks.

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[Michael W. Clark]

My table is about 24x32, 3/4" MDF, and has a T-track. This was my first one and I'm planning to build a new one. I have found the size to be good for what I do. The top is a single layer of MDF and also supports the router, so I have noticed some sag and difficulty keeping the router plate flush. I'm going to put a miter slot only (T-type) in the new one so I can us a miter gauge if I want. I have used the t-track for finger boards, but that can be done with the miter slot too.

The table in Ray's post has some good things going for it in my opinion. If you support the router from the cabinet, the table top is less likely to sag, and you don't need an insert plate that must be kept level. You could make round inserts to go in the table. I want a hand crank on the front and to be able to raise the router through the top, so I'm still thinking through the concept.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Here's a couple shots of my version of "The Ultimate"....

It'll do until I get around to making something better.

The top is a Rockler #1 - which is no longer available.

[Keith Outten]

Von,

I have built several router tables through the years and IMO no matter which design you prefer the best top for a router table is Dupont Corian. I built a simple router table for the sign shop at CNU a few years ago, it was a piece of Corian with a couple stiffeners on the bottom and I mounted it on a set of brackets on the wall. I didn't use a router raiser, simply mounted the motor directly to the bottom of the Corian top. After years and thousands of sign blanks that we edge routed on that table I can't imagine any other style for my purposes.

Corian is smooth and easy to mount perfectly flat. A coat of Johnson's Paste Wax every few days kept the top smooth as silk. With very little resistance to the top surface our sign blanks were so easy to edge route which made a big difference when we did a hundred blanks per day. If you feel the need to have a thicker top you can use silicone adhesive to join two layers of Corian, this also provides the necessary thickness to machine a miter slot. Using Corian to make your sliders will make the sliding action even more smooth inside a miter slot in a Corian table surface.

I left the router table I built for the shop at CNU there when I retired and I miss using that table every time I need to route plaques in my sign shop at home. I have plans to build another Corian router table shortly, this one will have an integrated overhead Pin Router Arm. I ordered the Pin Router Arm from Lee Valley recently (Veritas part number 05J37.01) and its a real beauty. Its made from cast aluminum and very sturdy, just what I have been looking for for many years. The Pin Router Arm will allow me to use any router bit as if they had a bearing. With a fixed guide on the arm I can template route with any bit or remove the bearings from bits which is a bit more flexible adjusting the height. We lose bearings quite frequently when routing Corian all day long as the dust gets in the bearing so I have been planning to solve this problem for a long time.

I have learned over the years since I have owned a CNC Router how much MDF will swell from humid conditions. Because of the high humidity in my local area I would never use MDF on a table top that I prefer to remain flat. The next time I replace the spoil board on my CNC Router I plan to use 3/4" thick PVC sheet.

My 2 cents FWIW.
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[Rick Potter]

My top is like Rich's. I would look at the websites for Woodpecker, Rockler, etc. I am sure they have better sizing ideas than mine. One thing to add though. I have the flip up top extensions from Rockler on mine. I don't use them all that often, but they are really handy when I need them, and they don't take up much room when down. I do have to shim them a bit, as the arms have some slop. You could probably build better extensions for yours.

About the miter slot. I use it for feather boards, but not for a miter gage. Instead, I use a 12" or so square piece of MDF with a handle on top. This gives me four sides to use on different profiles. When it gets chewed up, I slice it down and start over. Now that I have the Jessem rollers I doubt I will be using the feather boards that much.

Of course, having the slot doesn't hurt. My table has never warped because of it.

Hope this helps,
Rick Potter

[Adam Diethrich]

My primary bench, in the center of my garage "home shop," is a steel framed (on wheels) 1.5" thick x 30.00" x 60.00" maple top.

At one end I routed in and sank a 3/8" thick aluminum router plate (made at work) and use a BenchDog universal/removable fence. Also use a Rockler bought (I think, can't remember) miter slot, though I honestly don't use it much - just nice to have in case...

A.W.D.

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