Using a Dial Indicator On The Tablesaw

[Corey Hallagan]

Hi All. I have a dial indicator with a magnetic base. I just can't figure out how to use this thing. I want to check the blade to mitergauge set up and the fence to blade but I just don't get this thing. Never used one before, doesn't come with instructions and any website I have gone to just doesn't explain the thing. I don't know what the buttons are for or anything. I can't test the cuts until I get my electricity fixed but would like to get the final set up as close to good as possible prior to the time when I can finally plug it in and it runs.

Thanks for any help you can give,
Corey

[Doug Shepard]

This might help
http://www.ts-aligner.com/dialindicator.htm

[Bill Lewis]

Corey,

When using a dial indicator, you are measuring the difference of one object relative to another. One object has a fixed position, and another moves relative to it. An indicator with a magnetic base remains fixed, so something has to move in relation to it to take a measurement. For this reason, the mag base indicator really isn't the tool to use. If you wish to check on how
parrallel the table saw blade face is to the miter slot then you have to move the indicator relative to the "fixed" blade. If you look at the web site that Doug listed you will see the dial indicator mounted to a sled that moves in the miter slot on the saw. If you could come up with a way to mount your indicator in the same fashion, without introducing any additional slop, you could check for parallel. BTW there are other ways to check to see if the blade is parallel to the miter slot. A combination square and some feeler gages will work.

Another example on how to use a mag base indicator would be if you want to check the run-out of the blade. Just set the mag base to the table, put the indicator on to the blade near its edge, zero the indicator, and rotate the blade (by hand, power disconnected). The difference between the highest and lowest number on the indicator is the total runout relative to the position that you set it up to read. The same thing could be done to check the saw arbor. Small runout in an arbor will amplify runout at the blade edge.

I hope this explanation helps. There really is no one way to use a dial indicator, you just have to come up with a way to find the measurement you're after.

[Per Swenson]

I posted this picture Corey for clarity.
What we have here is a coping sled for the shaper
in the saws mitre slot.
By keeping the blade staionary and moving the rig in the slot
you can see how off you are and remedy the problem.
If you do not have a sled like this you can easily rig your own using the regular mitre guage.
I hope this helps a little.
Per

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks Doug, Bill and Per for your help, I appreciate it. I am going to give it a whirls tomorrow using the miter guage as a sled. I figure I might as well use it, it cost me $40.00 so it isn't doing any good sitting in the case! So, using the sled I can set the indicator tip on the blade, zero it, and run it back and forth and the the highest number will be how much runout the blade has and is this the same test to see how square the blade is to the mitre slot? Also, using the right miter slot and fence I can see if fence is square to the mitre slot right?
Thanks again,
Corey

[Larry Browning]

Corry,
Got to Terry Hatfield's website. He has instructions for making a TS alienment tool from scrap hardwood. You can make it in about 10 minutes and it works great!. www.terryhatfield.com (http://www.terryhatfield.com) click on Shop Made Accessories

Larry

[Tom Hurlebaus]

Corey,

I this link provides a pretty good explanation of the blade/fence alignment procedure with a dial indicator and provides a link for building a jig. I built one and for myself and a fellow woodworker in about a half hour.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/dilindjiguse.html

Tom

[Bill Lewis]

Corey,

You're close. You have two things you can check. Blade runout, and blade parallel to the miter slot.
Moving the dial indicator back and forth, guided by the miter slot, along the blade and this will indicate if the miter slot is parallel to the blade. This assumes the blade is flat.
To check the runout of the blade, Attach the indicator to the table (fixed position) and rotate the blade.
If you get alot of runout on the blade, then you should remove the blade, and check the arbor in the same manner. You've got a new saw, so chances are it should run pretty true.
You can also check the fence to the mitre slot to see if they too are parallel to one another.

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks Bill! I appreciate it.

Corey