What did you learn when you upgraded to a bigger lathe?

[George Overpeck]

Hey Creekers - I just made the big jump up from the Grizzly 0462 to a PM 3520 and I'm really excited, it arrived yesterday and I've already got it running, just need to receive my new chuck and I'm operational.

I'm anticipating some slow surprises in this respect - I have been pushing the G0462 to it's limits in size and balance and have developed a lot of habits to compensate, such as always locking a hip to the bed and lots of pressure on the tool rest to dampen vibration or adjusting the speed to match the vibration rather then for the best cut. Sanding has definitely been non-optimal since the old machine had a bottom end of 600 rpm and I used a mix of handheld paper, non-powered rotary and airpowered rotary. Now I have a full range of speeds plus reverse. Another change I know nothing about is the ability to securely move the tool rest above the center axis.

I was wondering if any of you had any memorable experiences of a habit or practice that you brought with you when you upgraded that you no longer needed, or new practices that were suddenly available. Anything that might have kept you from using a new machine at full potential for a bit, like the ability to use heavier or lighter tools which hadn't worked before.

In a similar vein, my town is swarming with "body works practitioners" - massage and physical therapists, etc. Has anyone ever worked directly at the lathe with someone who could talk posture and fatigue? The saving grace on that g0462 was the swiveling headstock- it made it possible to position for difficult cuts like shear scraping near the foot or accessing upper corners of a HF but I would sometimes realize that I could only make certain cuts for a few minutes at a time before I was exhausted. I know the PM gives me the opportunity to work right of the end of the bed so I can still get most of those angles, but I'd like to start forming some good habits where I can.

Also, the SMC community and your reviews and discussions were a big help in choosing a lathe. Thanks for all your enthusiasm!

[Robert Henrickson]

I switched quite quickly from a Jet mini to a Jet 1642, so I had less to unlearn. You've already mentioned one crucial thing to keep in mind with your new lathe -- being able to move the headstock so you can work off the end. Make sure you take full advantage of that from the beginning. I sometimes find myself off to the side when it would be easier and more sensible off the end.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I learned that I can stop my Jet Mini easily with a gouge. On my 1642, the lathe stops me. Or should I say it kicks me off when I get a catch. I had to unlearn a lot of over agressive cuts, since the bigger lathe has so much more power. The first couple weeks, I got kicked around a lot....... I did learn more control. Now when I use the mini, I don't get catches. Still get them on the big lathe though. Mostly because I can turn MUCH faster with more mass on the big lathe. I seldomly had the mini above 1200. Enjoy the new lathe. It's a great lathe.

[Thom Sturgill]

David Ellsworth teaches 'body mechanics' - stance, posture, excercises, etc. Well worth picking up one of his books. I don't think the videos cover it as well as the books do, though of course they do better with the actual turning.

[Dan Hintz]

What did I learn when I swapped my Jet for a Robust?

First off, I learned I can't move the individual pieces of the lathe by myself anymore :-/

I have had to learn my own posture and technique, which in many ways goes against the mold others were trying to fit me into. My range of motion is severely limited in certain ways, so I had to find ways to work around that. This isn't specific to the Robust, mind you, but it makes a difference. I haven't had a catch in quite a while, and my cuts are pretty darn smooth at this point... but I probably look like two dogs humping a moose with my odd motions.

[Scott Hackler]

I wish I could tell you, but I haven't upgraded...... Yet

[Gerald Wervey]

You are going to like your new lathe a LOT. the big difference that you are going to find is that if the readout says x speed it stays there even when you lean into it. some of the smaller lathes can be bogged down not the case here. Play safe count ten fingers two eye leave with ten fingers two eyes Stretch often your new lathe won't move so use it to stretch your legs one foot forward other behind it then push back gently swap foot position. Put both hand above you head reach for the ceiling the bend to the left keeping legs straight hold five seconds same on the right side. put hands behind small of back lean to the left and hold do the right side as well. If it is the new b B series the headstock can brought down 2/3 of the way or so and he turn of the end like a stubby. Have fun Jerry

[Dennis Ford]

I suspect the biggest thing that you will learn is that wood-turning is more fun than before.

[Dick Mahany]

I haven't yet! My first lathe was/is a Jet 1642-2 and it is still teaching me new things. I get daily lessons in humility and can' t imagine what a bigger machine would do to me !


Enjoy your new freedom and horizon of opportunities !

[Steve Schlumpf]

George, when I upgraded from my Jet 1642-2 to a Robust AB, the one thing I noticed was the amount of clearance between the tool rest and the bed of the lathe. On the Jet, I often found that my bowl gouge would hit the bed when I was roughing out a form. Basically, I ran out of room and had to reposition myself for the next cut. With the bigger lathe, now I can just shift my weight and complete a cut without worrying about limited room!

One other observation about having a bigger lathe... is the lack of vibration. The large lathe is so smooth it is amazing! The main benefit of that is you don't have to fight the lathe to turn and it results in smoother cuts and a heck of a lot more fun!

[Art German]

I made the same switch as Steve did from the Jet 1642-2 to the Robust AB. the things I learned was how much more fun it was to turn. much less vibration, more power, bigger tail stock. bigger tool rest. I make cuts now that I could not do on the Jet. Plus you can set it up for your height and desires as to your build. And bye the wy the Jet was a very good lathe.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Like others here, my second lathe was a Jet 1642. After turning on it for about 4 years I upgraded to the Robust AB. The difference is profound - the additional size, horsepower and stability make turning a joy. But what I really noticed was, as Steve mentioned, the additional space from the bed to centers allowed much more freedom to drop the handle and use parts of my gouges cutting edges that I hadn't been able to play with much before. Also, surprisingly, the ability to adjust the spindle height to just the right level has made turning more comfortable and easier on the back.

[Thom Sturgill]

I started on a Jet 1220, now own a Jet 1642 and turned on a PM 3520B at Campbell Folk School. One thing I noticed is that as you move up in quality the quality of the bearings improve and the smoother, easier, and more comfortable it is to turn faster (2500-3200rpm) when turning small items like finials and ornaments.

[Lee Koepke]

i went from a RIKON mini to Jet 1642.
Variable speed, reverse, and the extra 400 lbs makes a difference

I really like the ease of turning from pens to live edge out of balance chunks of wood.

[Jeff Gilfor]

Went from Rikon 1224 size to Nova 24 inch 2.5 HP monster.
Learned that tenons can (and do) twist and tear off when hollowing pieces. Don't use that method of chucking anymore. Old lathe would simply stall; new one rips the piece right off the chuck. The only time I trustable tenon now, is if it is very wide, mounted in my power grip jaws, or is on the bottom of a smallish piece of wood.

[Bill Wyko]

I started on a Jet mini, then went to a Jet 1442 and now i went big time with the Powermatic 4224. I learned getting a 1000lb Powermatic 4224 one foot up into my shop takes an act of congress. (it passed the house.......on the right side) I also learned I love slow start, reverse, 24" swing, variable speed down to 50 rpms, no vibration, built in indexing, 3 hp, being able to power right through a catch and that's just for starters. Overall there's a feel and a sense of skill elevation that I felt as well. I truly became a better turner almost immediately.
.

[robert baccus]

I learned that big wood is more expensive.

[Richard Coers]

I learned my bank account got a lot smaller.

[Bob Bergstrom]

Much more respect for large pieces of wood rotating at faster speed. They can sure hurt if they get lose on fall on you foot or roll up your arm when they come out of the chuck. I wear stadium seat foam under my coveralls covering my chest, a leather glove on my left hand to protect it from chips and a soccer shin guard on my left forearm to protect it from bowls rolling up my arm. Yes. I have small scars on my forearm from roughing bowls rolling up my left arm. Other than that I love turning on my 3520

[George Overpeck]

"I have small scars on my forearm from roughing bowls rolling up my left arm. Other than that I love turning on my 3520"

I hadn't thought about that one yet. I have usually used my screw chuck mounted with the 3 inch jaws for roughing the exterior, and have a 4 inch oneway chuck in the mail. I was presuming I could stay with the same program but maybe I'll go back to using the faceplate for big pieces.

As far as ripping the foot off, I've done that a few times with the g0462 and usually attributed it to having an unseen crack in the wood. Very unpleasant when it happens. I'll keep my cuts light for a little bit.

It sounds like the biggest change is going to be that it's just more enjoyable - that's worth the price of the ticket. Also I presume it will mean less wear and tear on the shoulder, elbow and wrist which will save money and pain in the long run.

[Mike Goetzke]

Went from Rikon 1224 size to Nova 24 inch 2.5 HP monster.
Learned that tenons can (and do) twist and tear off when hollowing pieces. Don't use that method of chucking anymore. Old lathe would simply stall; new one rips the piece right off the chuck. The only time I trustable tenon now, is if it is very wide, mounted in my power grip jaws, or is on the bottom of a smallish piece of wood.

This is the kind of thing I worry about. Until I shaped my gouge correctly I got several catches. A couple severe enough that it stalled my 46-460. What is the result on a much more powerful lathe?

Mike

[Bill Wyko]

I learned that big wood is more expensive.

Just remember when it comes to wood......It really does grow on trees.:D

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Reading all the responses has reminded me of another result of going to a larger, more powerful lathe - Bill Wyko pointed it out and I resisted stating it just that way initially, but it has, indeed made me a better turner. I've had fewer catches and I concentrate on getting the best cut possible much more than I did before getting the Robust.
Partly because I have to respect the fact that this thing can spit a poorly cut piece of wood back at me with more than twice the force of my former lathe, but also because the increased smoothness and lack of vibration can lull you into complacency if you're not aware of what's happening. I spend a little more time making sure my tenons are well cut and the piece won't come off the lathe because of something I've overlooked.
Cutting cleaner with better tool angles means a better finish off the tool; and less sanding.
My technique and my turning habits have gotten a lot better.

[Brian Kent]

I really appreciate this thread. Physics are real.I am grateful that I get some experience on a midi before graduating. As I am learning I want the machine to stop when I get a catch. I want to learn smoothness and tool control so that I'll be safer with more power.

A couple of times such comments have been misinterpreted as fear. It's not. It's physics and power and leverage.

I also appreciate the comments about changing position of an 88 lb. bed extension and the lifting of the kind of blank that it takes to make a 19 inch bowl. Great insights. I do look forward to my future lathe someday. I just want to learn the ropes before I get the power.

Never learn to ride a bike on a Harley or a super rocket.

[Michael Stafford]

When I bought my Stubby I could hardly wait to turn some of the big bowl blanks I had been saving until I got a lathe large enough. The Stubby has two configurations, the standard bed position allows one to turn 16" diameter blanks and with the bed slid away from the headstock one can swing 30" blanks.

After a few of hours of roughing a 25" bowl and several loads of chips to the compost bin I did not feel as enthusiastic about turning large bowls ever again. I have turned a few more large bowls and by no means have I exhausted my supply of large blanks but on occasion I foist one upon an unsuspecting newbie once in a while. :p

Now the largest thing I turn are platters in the 20-24" diameter range which still manage to produce voluminous chips. The turning is only part of the problem when large pieces of wood are involved. I sometimes sand with a 5" random orbit sander or a flap wheel mounted on a drill to lessen the amount of time for that task. And reverse turning the bottom of a large piece poses its own set of challenges particularly if one does not have a vacuum set up.

And last but not least how many large bowls and platters does any one person need? They are difficult to display and store and don't sell all that well. I have platters stacked up in the closet and my family, friends and neighbors will not let me enter their homes when I come calling with a large package any longer. :o

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[Drew Marold]

I went from a 10x17 mini (same one Rockler is currently selling badged as Excelsior, just a different name plate) to a 3520B. The 2 things I've learned is it's a lot more physical turning a 16" piece over the 4-8" ones I was used to, and man can that thing throw some chips around the shop. I roughed out some 14-16" pieces recently, and everything in about a 10' radius around the lathe was covered in chips & shavings. They were dangling from the cobwebs in the joists, and in every nook, cranny, and uncovered opening in sight.
Unless you're using a coring system, there's a hell of a lot of "not bowl" in every bowl.

[Adrian Anguiano]

. As I am learning I want the machine to stop when I get a catch. I want to learn smoothness and tool control so that I'll be safer with more power.


I just recently went from a Jet 1014i to a Jet 3520A. And i have found out if you use a steb center or 2 spur center and you take too much of a cut or get a catch that the torque of the motor will cause that center to drill a hole in the wood. :)

I find its like going from a V4 to a V8 Supercharger Car. They both will drive you to your location, but with the V8 you want to use it to the max. Meaning: Suddenly instead of pens you want to turn 18" bowls, and natural forms. and hollowing out vases etc... going to the max. So my only advice is to take your progression naturally. Dont hit the pedal to the floor and lose control.