Shoulder Plane vs. Rabbet Block Plane

[Brett Bobo]

What's your tool of choice for cleaning up tenons, the shoulder plane, the rabbet block plane, or something different? I have a Record 311 that I've been using for a while and my preference is to have a wider blade (and sole), and something that is easier to handle and control. I'm leaning towards the rabbet block plane and even though I have LA block planes, it could double as a standard block plane as well. Also, there's a decent savings as well between the two.

As far as brand, I'm leaning towards the LN rabbet block plane over the Veritas skew block plane for two reasons: price :eek: and application. Even though the skewed blade likely would result in cleaner cross cuts, I'm not sure how if that's a huge issue, particularly for tenons in my application.

What else am I missing here?

Thanks in advance,
Brett

[Chris Griggs]

I usually use a float but sometimes a router plane for cheeks. I usually use a chisel but sometimes a shoulder plane for shoulders. My shoulder plane mostly gets use for cleaning rabbets, tongues and other non-M&T joinery though.

If you want a wide soled plane for tenon cheeks the LN rabbet block seems like a great option for the reasons you mention. You of course can use a shoulder plane on cheeks, especially a large one, but that really what the rabbet block is specifically designed for.

Lots of good options here, no single "right" one.

[David Weaver]

For a well marked tenon, I think trimming them to the mark is easier with a chisel or a float.

I had the LN 140 to clean tenons, or at least I thought that's why I got it. I went back to a chisel, and once I got a hold of floats, either or - whatever's closer (but always a chisel for the shoulder. The first couple of shoulders will look ratty or have stray marks, but you get the hang of it pretty quickly.

[Brett Bobo]

Thanks for the input, guys. I should have clarified that my intent is to use the rabbet plane on the cheeks only.

That's a good point on using a float instead, which I didn't consider. I was looking more for a multi-purpose tool. Does the float provide you with a comparable finished surface as the rabbet plane or is it still fairly coarse?

Speaking of the LN, has there been any significant (or any at all) changes to the plane in the last 10 years? I've found a couple of used planes and one as old as '04 but in pristine condition--apparently it's NIB.

[Jim Matthews]

+1 on the router plane.

A really sharp chisel might be easier to control, if you can be sure the back is flat.
There's less to get in the way, when it's just a blade.

Cheaper than a float, and likely more effective - when it's out in the open.

I prefer floats when I'm dealing with the inside of a mortise, on things smaller than 1/2".

I find that a chisel smaller than 1/2" is always cutting something I don't want disturbed.

[Jim R Edwards]

I use a LN 60 1/2R most of the time. Works great!

[Stanley Covington]

This subject has been beat to death, then propped up on rebar legs and beat again. But here goes.

I like tools, and so try everything. I prefer the LN rabbet block plane. Here's why.

1. Lighter weight than metal shoulder plane.

2. Lower center of gravity than metal or wooden shoulder planes = easier to control and keep square.

3. Wider blade than shoulder plane and router plane = can shave tenon cheeks in only one or to strokes, and it doesn't dig in at the blade corners.

4. Blade daylights at both sides of the body = provides more flexibility than a skew rabbet plane because the plane can cut flush on both sides and be used to shave using either a push or pull which is great for dealing with contrary grain on tenon cheeks.

5. Very stable when laid on its side = can be used to shave shoulders as well as cheeks with equal dexterity. By comparison, a shoulder plane is better at shaving tenon shoulders, but is not nearly as good at shaving both cheeks and shoulders. A router plane can't work a tenon laid on its side.

A router plane cannot shave shoulders at all. A router plane can shave tenon cheeks, but not as cleanly as a shoulder or block plane, and it can only do it when supported by adjoining surfaces. Using adjoining surfaces is OK, but it severely limits speed and convenience. I mentioned this before and some people nearly fainted, but the fact is that while router planes are great for truing up skewed way-out-of-tolerance tenons, one should strive to cut tenons precisely enough that gross adjustment of that sort is not required. And the OP's question was about the preferred tool for "cleaning up" tenons, not "reshaping" tenons. :rolleyes:

The ideal tenon shaving tool in my experience is a set of left and right kiwaganna planes (low-profile wooden-bodied Japanese skew planes). These are very lightweight, low center of gravity, skewed, can work both directions, and can shave both shoulders and cheeks. Downside is that they are a set of two planes versus a single rabbet block plane, and they can be a pain in the fundament to setup and maintain. But they were not in the OP's list, so I will not mention them. :D

Stan

[Chris Griggs]

Despite my like of both the float and the router plane, after a number of discussions about this that Stan was involved in I have come around to thinking there are better faster ways than the router plane. This is why I got the float and I do prefer it over the router plane for trimming a well laid out well sawed tenon. The float offers many of the same advantages that the rabbet block does, but nonetheless I still often contemplate the rabbet block for all the reasons Stan mentions. Seems like a really good way to go, I can't really imagine being unhappy with it. Stan gives very sage advice that seems to be based on much experience. I would listen to him.

BTW, regarding used vs new. The only change I can think of is that the nickers were not always standard on it, so many of the used ones don't have them. They are likely not a necessity but just something to be aware of.

[Hilton Ralphs]

nickers were not always standard, so many of the used ones don't have them. They are likely not a necessity but just something to be aware of.
This accurately describes a few people I know......

[Jack Curtis]

...The ideal tenon shaving tool in my experience is a set of left and right kiwaganna planes (low-profile wooden-bodied Japanese skew planes). These are very lightweight, low center of gravity, skewed, can work both directions, and can shave both shoulders and cheeks. Downside is that they are a set of two planes versus a single rabbet block plane, and they can be a pain in the fundament to setup and maintain. But they were not in the OP's list, so I will not mention them. :D

I have a couple of sets of these, one set smaller than the other, and I've been wondering what I could use them for. :)

[Derek Cohen]

Here is my 2c ...

1. For squaring up a cheek that is out-of-parallel, use a router plane.

2. For trimming off more than 1mm of thickness from parallel and square cheeks, use a plane: wide (1 1/4") shoulder plane, skew block plane, or rabbit block plane.

3. For trimming off less than 1mm of thickness from parallel and square cheeks, use a float, rasp or chisel. (You may well start with a plane and do the final trim with a chisel).

4. When all else fails, use epoxy or a bigger hammer .... no, I'm just kidding :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Chris Griggs]

4. When all else fails, use epoxy or a bigger hammer .... no, I'm just kidding :)



Hey that's great advice....you shouldn't kid about that. Large hammers and epoxy have saved countless poorly executed joints throughout history. :)

[Jim Matthews]

This accurately describes a few people I know......

Ooo, you stout boy you.
Go sit in a corner.

[Jim Matthews]

The problem is that everything starts looking like a nail, when all you've got is a hammer.

[Chris Griggs]

Ooo, you stout boy you.
Go sit in a corner.

Hilton is a sassy bloke. I do quite enjoy his nefarious tom foolery!:) ....suppose I shouldn't encourage him though!