Most of the Stuff Moved In.....(Pics)

[John Dingman]

Well Guys, I'm bushed! But, this is what we got done today after 3:30 p.m. I had to wait for the epoxy to fully cure or I would have gotten a much earlier start on this.

Here is the view as you walk in the door:

http://www.johnswoodshop.us/Images/Moving%20Day%205-28-2005%20001.jpg

And here is a view from East to West:

http://www.johnswoodshop.us/Images/Moving%20Day%205-28-2005%20007.jpg

The blank space you see on the back wall is the spot for my miter bench which I have to disassemble before I can move it.

And here is a view from the West to the East:

http://www.johnswoodshop.us/Images/Moving%20Day%205-28-2005%20002.jpg

For the whole story and more pics you can look Here. (http://www.johnswoodshop.us/New%20Shop%20Construction.htm)

I still have to run the dust collection. And there are other odds and ends that I have to take care of. I am sure I will move things around until I get it just like I want it. And I am going to install anti-fatigue mats once I get everything right where I want it. Thanks for all the encouragement along the way. And thanks for looking!

John

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

That looks like a nice space. :)

Thanks for posting the update...the bandsaw location behind the table saw might work for me, too.

KC

[Dan Forman]

Great job on the shop. Looks like a very comfortable place to spend your time.

Dan

[Brian Hale]

Looking good John!! I like the OSB on the walls instead of sheetrock so you can hang stuff. The only problem i see is a serious lack of dust! Start cutting soon and keep us posted.

Great job

Brian

[John Hart]

John,

I have to agree with Brian....Great looking shop...It needs to be dirty!:)

[Pete Harbin]

Looks great John. Hope you can get back to some cutting soon :)

Pete

[Christian Aufreiter]

Very nice and CLEAN shop. Can wait to see it covered with dust :D .

Christian

[Alan Turner]

Nice job, but way too clean! I wonder if hte placement of the lights in the bench area will create shadows for you as you work at the benches. But maybe not with all of the good reflective surfaces. In my basement shop, I have my lights oriented parallel with the bench, but got a suggestion from a lighting designer as to the neew shop, which would have them oriented across the benches, which he says will not create fewer shadows on the work surface. In my basement shop I have no choice given the limited space an low ceiling, but inthe new shop I can pretty much do what I want.

Have fun in your new space.

[Per Swenson]

Very cool,
you should be proud.
I have been in hospital emergency rooms that are
not half as organized.
Per

[John Dingman]

Nice job, but way too clean! I wonder if hte placement of the lights in the bench area will create shadows for you as you work at the benches. But maybe not with all of the good reflective surfaces. In my basement shop, I have my lights oriented parallel with the bench, but got a suggestion from a lighting designer as to the neew shop, which would have them oriented across the benches, which he says will not create fewer shadows on the work surface. In my basement shop I have no choice given the limited space an low ceiling, but inthe new shop I can pretty much do what I want.

Have fun in your new space.Alan,

Good eyes! I have a couple more shop lights to hang over the benches. And I am going to get a couple more lights for the ceiling in the area around the band saw as that area is not lit as well as I would like it. The plan was to put enough light in to see what I was doing and then add additional lighting as needed once everything was in place.

So what you are saying is the light over the bench should run from the wall out to the center of the shop? And that would reduce or eliminate shadows?

Thanks!
John

[John Dingman]

To all,

Thank you very much for your kind comments about the new shop. And don't worry, it will be dirty soon enough. ;) Though there are some set backs with a basement shop, I think I am really going to enjoy this space. I know I am going to like the convenience of it. It seems like all I ever build is large case work. I will be happy to do some smaller projects for a change :D :D I already have the line down..........."Oh, that may be too big to get out of the basement ;)

I am going to have a seperate finishing room which will be very nice. All in all, I think it will work out great. Thanks again for looking and for your very kind words.

John

[Effie Lever]

Looks like you’re almost ready to add some sawdust. Talk about sawdust, did you plan the dust collection runs?

[Sam Chambers]

John, it's looking very nice. I have a similar project in my future.

You may have mentioned this earlier, but what are the dimensions of your new shop?

[John Dingman]

John, it's looking very nice. I have a similar project in my future.

You may have mentioned this earlier, but what are the dimensions of your new shop?Sam,

It's 46' total length. And it's 16' 4" at the widest spot. It's 11' 3" wide in the bench area. And about 15' wide in the table saw area.

Thanks,
John

[John Dingman]

Looks like you’re almost ready to add some sawdust. Talk about sawdust, did you plan the dust collection runs?Effie,

Still working on the DC runs. Trying to get the final location of all the equipment set first, and then I'll run it. I'd like to go with 6" but will probably end up going with 4".

John

[Corey Hallagan]

Excellent John. That is a great shop space!! I would love to have that kind of room. I didn't see how you get sheet goods or other lumber into the shop basement? Your router table set up looks interesting... a large piece it looks like.

Corey

[John Dingman]

Excellent John. That is a great shop space!! I would love to have that kind of room. I didn't see how you get sheet goods or other lumber into the shop basement? Your router table set up looks interesting... a large piece it looks like.

CoreyCorey,

Sheet goods come right down the stairs. Moved 35 Sheets of osb down there without a problem. The Garage is attached to the house, and the basement door is a straight shot in from the garage. I made the shop door line up with the stairs so there are no corners to navigate. I think it's going to work out ok.

Yep, the router table is a mess :D A set of old kitchen cabinets makes up the base. It's a massive beast. Quite an overkill. I intend to make either a router insert for the table saw, or a smaller, more mobile Router Table.

Thanks!
John

[lou sansone]

looks like a nice place to hang out. I am sure in a year or two it will look pretty lived in

best wishes
lou

[Jeff Sudmeier]

John,

It is great to see this project complete!! I'd bet you can't wait to get it dirty! Right now it looks TOO clean!

[Byron Trantham]

Looookin' good... :D

[Effie Lever]

John, the more I study DC the more I’m convinced that 6” is the way to go, especially for the main run. I don’t think is will add that much to the work or the expense. 4” will do a descent job for chip removal but not for the fine dust that creates most of the health hazards. Even if your collector is not as powerful as you like it to be by using 6” main runs you are ready for upgrade any time without major duck rework.
Little practical advice, some books and articles suggest running a copper wire inside the ducking to ground static buildup in the plastic pipes. I did that and got clogs when large chips from my Planer got caught between the wire and the duck wall. This happened in the vertical pipe just before the DC inlet. Since then I removed all the internal wires and run it externally around the pipes grounded at the collector. I also made sure the metal blast gats I use make contact with the copper wire, his will help removing static from the dust and chips as they pass through the gate. If you do use plastic don’t use the glue in all the connections, leave some attached with duck tape only, this will give you an easy way to modify or inspect the pipes without the need to cut anything.
Hope this helps.

Effie

[John Dingman]

John, the more I study DC the more I’m convinced that 6” is the way to go, especially for the main run. I don’t think is will add that much to the work or the expense. 4” will do a descent job for chip removal but not for the fine dust that creates most of the health hazards. Even if your collector is not as powerful as you like it to be by using 6” main runs you are ready for upgrade any time without major duck rework.
Little practical advice, some books and articles suggest running a copper wire inside the ducking to ground static buildup in the plastic pipes. I did that and got clogs when large chips from my Planer got caught between the wire and the duck wall. This happened in the vertical pipe just before the DC inlet. Since then I removed all the internal wires and run it externally around the pipes grounded at the collector. I also made sure the metal blast gats I use make contact with the copper wire, his will help removing static from the dust and chips as they pass through the gate. If you do use plastic don’t use the glue in all the connections, leave some attached with duck tape only, this will give you an easy way to modify or inspect the pipes without the need to cut anything.
Hope this helps.

EffieEffie,

Thanks for that info. btw, how's the jointer working for you?

John