14" walker turner bandsaw

[bill ward]

I just purchased a 14" Walker Turner band saw, serial no. 19 639, made in the "40s. I've started the restoration. I have it mostly dissembled... plan to replace backer bearings, blade, tires and paint and anything else that doesn't measure up. In order to completely dissemble I need to pull the wheels to replace the bearings and tires. The problem is how do I do this without destroying the bearing's dust cover... it's made out of pot metal. There are two bearings, one on each side of the wheel hub. I have a three pronged bearing puller but I afraid I will destroy the cover. Any other approach.

As far as painting goes, I plan to paint it gray. I can't stand the original color. I know it's an antique but it's an awful green. Is this something I shouldn't do? Thanks, bill

[Myk Rian]

If you're replacing the bearings, why worry about the dust cover/shield?
Is it not part of the bearing?
A picture would help.

Paint it any color you want.

[jack forsberg]

If you're replacing the bearings, why worry about the dust cover/shield?
Is it not part of the bearing?
A picture would help.

Paint it any color you want.


Because them bearing are hard to get/find. WT had some odd bearings in there machines some unattainable. you might want to read the numbers on your bearings before you pull them to see if you can get them. There are pullers that use a plate called pulley/bearing splinter that remove bearing with out damage. i do Believe you can get them at your HF.

[Myk Rian]

Call Accurate bearing to try to get replacements.
http://www.accuratebearing.com/

[Keith Hankins]

Someone else posted it, and I'll 2nd it. Accurate bearings. I ordered the replacements for my WT16". Word of advice mark the shaft locations for the bearings for when you put them back on :0 Go over to the old woodworking tool site and register. They have an encyclopedia of info on WT stuff. I bought mine for 125$. They are tanks!

[bill ward]

I figured if the original bearings were protected from dust it wouldn't hurt to try and save the dust corers to protect the new bearings. I realize they aren't necessary but I just thought I'd try to save them if there's a way to do it. I've attached a couple of pictures. Thanks for your comment. Bill

[bill ward]

Thanks for the advise. Bill

[bill ward]

Good useful information. Thanks, Bill

[bill ward]

Please give me more information on "the old woodworking tool site". Thanks, Bill

[bill ward]

Missed one picture in my last note. here it is. thanks again. Bill

[Gus Dundon]

You can browse to this http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=808&tab=4 . You may be able to get some information.

[Gary Radice]

And the OWWM discussion forum is a separate site at owwm.org. "Old Woodworking Machines" is the forum for asking questions about your bandsaw.

[jack forsberg]

Call Accurate bearing to try to get replacements.
http://www.accuratebearing.com/


Not sure if sawmill creek would like you directing to a sponsor of OWWM .org. As for a bearing houses go they sale Asian junk like NTN are less better than most bearings IMO.

[Keith Hankins]

http://vintagemachinery.org/ Top bar is forum. Register. Greatest set of folks that are ready to help. You should register your machine as well great history of machines. You want to see some cool restores unreal! You can find documentation too. I found detail parts diagrams for the WT there. Helped me temendously. BTW when you call accurare bearing you just need to mention you have a WT, and they will know. Everyone goes there for bearings.

[John Lifer]

Not sure if sawmill creek would like you directing to a sponsor of OWWM .org. As for a bearing houses go they sale Asian junk like NTN are less better than most bearings IMO. Give us a break, did he mention OWWM in his post? Can't see the difference in mentioning Any vendor. BMW, I have never bought from the mentioned vendor.

[Keith Hankins]

As someone who's used OWWM.org for information in restoring my WT 16", Accurate bearings are topnotch. Also, this market (old tools restoration) has a very limited set of vendors you can get anything from as sadly most of the stuff us restorers work with are not in production anymore. While I'm sure I could have found a vendor to get the bearings from other than that one, but It was nice to get a lead like that and call them tell them what I had and they sent the right bearings. So instead of that great old cast iron beast going to the dump, I will be able to put her back to her glory for $50.00 bucks in bearings plus the 125 i paid for the saw. The folks there help one another out that way, just like here they are just more specialized. You should browse the machinery index over there and look as some of the jobs those guys have done. I've only got three machines(restores) and mine are just to get them running to use. Some have been totally stripped painted and look like brand new. Best part those machines will last forever and are 10 times the stuff out there today.

[bill ward]

Thanks for the advise. I'm new at this so I need all the help I can get. Thanks, Bill

[Doug Ladendorf]

The bearing splitter mentioned above will help pull the cover. You can get a set at HF that looks like this:

270286

I have restored a number of older machines and purchased from Accurate Bearings. They will take care of you. Vintagemachinery.org and OWWM.org can't be beat for knowledge about restoring older machines like yours. Keep us up to date on how it's going. (With pictures!) ;)

[bill ward]

Thanks for the information Doug. I'll be sure to keep you posted. At the moment the saw is in about 50 pieces. Everything has had a white distilled vinegar bath to aid rust removal and then to a buffing wheel for the finishing touches. Parts are starting to look reasonably good for a novice in restoration. This is my first attempt at bringing an old tool back from the grave. I've attached a couple of pictures to give an idea of what it looked like. Once again, thanks for the info. Bill

P.S. If the pictures don't show up, please give some instruction as to how to attach pictures. I used the "Insert Image" icon at the top of this page.