Question on Transtint Dye application

[Jack Gaskins]

I have only used transtint a few times so not an expert here. I used DNA to thin it and am applying it to maple birdhouse ornaments. The maple is a very simple grained maple nothing fancy. When I apply the purple dye it is very blotchy and dull in appearance. Should I use shellac to seal the wood first? Should I put BLO over the dye? Or is it just that the maple has plane grain? Thanks, Jack.

[charlie knighton]

need picture, please

[Prashun Patel]

Dye will highlight improper sanding prep. This is particularly evident where the side grain transitions to end grain.

Also on darker colors, it can take a few applications to get the right depth of color especially with dna as a diluent because it dries so fast. You can either apply more, generous coats or you can use a slower drying solvent like isopropyl alcohol or water or rubbing alcohol which is a combination of ipa and water.

Last, dyes dry muted and dull. The color will spring back to life when topcoated. How it looks wet is how it will look once topcoated. With dna, you only get a few seconds to see it wet because it dries so fast.

dyes should go on unsealed wood. I wouldnt shellac it.

[Jack Gaskins]

Thanks, I will look into using water next time and see how that goes. I read that you shouldn't sand past 220 if you are going to apply dye so I only went to 220.

[John Keeton]

Jack, I am not sure where you read to sand only to 220, but I think that would be problematic. I always sand to 400 - sometimes 600, depending on species. You do not want a burnished surface, so use fresh sandpaper. Even fresh 600 will leave enough texture to permit absorption.

[Prashun Patel]

I also sand to 400. Many will say that sanding beyond 180 or 220 can cause color absorption problems but i have never had that problem. However if u are seeing blotch i would think the culprit is more likely improper sanding than not going north of 220.

What kind of wood is it?

can u post a picture close up?

[Marc Himes]

Another vote for 400-600. Dye brings out sanding marks and other "imperfections" in the surface better than just about anything else, so surface prepearation should be excellent. Adding dye adds considerably to the time you spend on a piece due to surface preparation and also during finishing when compared to a finish such as Walnut oil without dye. Maple, especially hard maple will take up the dye much more on the end grain portions than on the face grain, so some of the variation is expected. Regarding the dull appearance, this should resolve after you have applied enough coats of finish. I prefer a glossy finish with my dyed pieces and use a lot of Wipe On Poly, usually 6-8 coats.

[Jack Gaskins]

I will post a pick tomorrow. The wood is just ordinary maple not much figure. I had read that the dye wouldn't penetrate very well if you sanded above 220 maybe I confused that with "Stain",,,probably,,,man I hate finishing stuff! Takes more time to finish then to freakin turn the item. Arggggg.

[Jamie Donaldson]

I don't think anyone likes to sand, except maybe Vince! Unfortunately, sanding can make or break a quality turning and finishing job, so we all have to suffer through the process.:o

[Greg Just]

I have had good results with Minwax Pre-stain conditioner. Stuff stinks but help with the blotchiness that sometimes occurs. Good luck.