New tenon jig design finished

[Mike Leung]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTp0-xQEbog

I finished it. As promised, here are the video and pics. It is made from 8020 brackets, my t-track fence cutoffs, uhmw bars, a woodpecker clamp, and some nuts and bolts. It is very stable and slides smoothly. The two tracks can slide apart to accomodate wider pieces. Let me know what you think? I would love to hear suggestions for improving it. Thanks

[Bruce Page]

Nice jig. How is the 8020 attached to the fence? Did the fence faces require shimming?

[Mike Cutler]

Mike

Nice Jig!
There are two variables that I would be interested to know how your controlling.
First is that the fence and the blade have to be parallel to each other, and they both have to be perfect 90's.
Obviously you've done it. Is it a function of the 80/20 fence design to set these dimensions?
How hard do you think it would be to clamp the 80/20 into the miter slot instead of a sliding fence?

I have a feeling that some manufacturers may be looking at your idea in the public domain, and may capitalize on it. It's a nice design. It looks like an improvement on the cheap Delta 180 series clones on the market. Only two moving parts also!
Well done.

PS. You need a rip blade, but I'm certain that you know that.;)

[Andrew Hughes]

Looks good to me, I hope it's not too much trouble to set up.The only inprovement I can see is a woodworker 2 blade.:)

[Mike Leung]

Nice jig. How is the 8020 attached to the fence? Did the fence faces require shimming?

Thanks Bruce
The green bars are UHMW cut and notched to fit into the top track. On screen left in the video, you can see the cutoff of the bar showing the profile. I had to sand them a little to allow easy sliding.
i squared the brackets by slightly touching up the faces on my belt sander. After that the faces mounted without the need for shimming. If shimming is needed, I would shim the brackets at the base.

[Mike Leung]

Mike

Nice Jig!
There are two variables that I would be interested to know how your controlling.
First is that the fence and the blade have to be parallel to each other, and they both have to be perfect 90's.
Obviously you've done it. Is it a function of the 80/20 fence design to set these dimensions?
How hard do you think it would be to clamp the 80/20 into the miter slot instead of a sliding fence?

I have a feeling that some manufacturers may be looking at your idea in the public domain, and may capitalize on it. It's a nice design. It looks like an improvement on the cheap Delta 180 series clones on the market. Only two moving parts also!
Well done.

PS. You need a rip blade, but I'm certain that you know that.;)

thanks. The 8020 brackets needed a little squaring. The woodhaven t-track faces are square. I squared my fence to be parallel with the blade by just the standard beisemeyer style screw adjustments. Since the jig rides parallel with the fence, wouldn't the cut be similar to ripping a board using the fence?

The fence faces are not from 8020 but are from woodhaven. The flatness of the t-track extrusions is remarkable. Here is a video when I tested for flatness. I was just fed up with the lousy faces from sawstop so I made my own faces.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tgF6D8hsSo&sns=em


Putting it into the miter slot can work but will not be as stable because it is just mounted at one point. I would design it slightly different for the miter slot. Yes I need to get a rip blade. I saw the puff of smoke during the cut and made a note to myself that I need a rip blade. This jig was pretty simple to put together and only costed about 50$ in parts. The best thing about this jig is that it has no slop at all.

[Mike Leung]

Andrew, To set up for 90, I used a combo square to square the back support. There are not too many moving parts so its simple to use. I do have a WWII but in 40 tooth FT grind which is my favorite blade. Maybe I'll need a 30 tooth or less to cut tenons effectively.