Pros & Cons of digital height gauges

[Lee Schierer]

I'm contemplating getting a digital height gauge for use with my routers (table mounted and free standing). I want to set the height of the bit when making dovetails so that they are not too tight or too loose. I also want to be able to set the height of saw blades on my TS when ripping rabbets. What are the pros and cons of this type 269722 versus this type 269723

[Adam Diethrich]

I would say between the two is largely a matter of preference for use strictly with your routers, but the "non" horseshoe type will give you lots of other options for it's use, as the design doesn't limit where the indicator can measure or be brought to a a piece or tool for measuring.

A.W.D.

[pat warner]

I would choose neither.
The gages are use, cutter/blade and measuring-technique sensitive.
They'll ballpark for you, but, in the final analysis, it's the signature.
Signature = all of those variables you have no control of, like: your metrology skills, balance, backlash, no. of flutes, runout, grind quality (tooth to tooth), roundness, the nature of the material being cut, feed & speed rates and so on.
So the net cut should be measured and machine changes and target depths based on how well you can measure that and re-adjust your router/saw. In the machine tool world (essential the metal shop), calibration cutting would be an embarassment.

[Jim Barstow]

Ditto. I use the non horseshoe style to get close then use test cuts to get the final setting. I also mill my stock long so I can use the cutoff pieces for the test cuts. That guarantees that I am using the exact same dimensions and wood characteristics.

[Richard Wagner]

Just how accurate do you guys think those cuts need to be? It seems, unless you are in high volume manufacturing environment where time is money, that is a lot of overkill. I make those same cuts with either a "tap-tap" or find the feeler gauge and get the same results.

Yes, I am extremely frugal.

[Stephen Cherry]

I give a strong vote to the non-horse shoe type. For me it is indispensable. I like it for setup, and measurement of the cut part.

[Jamie Buxton]

Does the horseshoe type stand in place without you to hold it up? Adjusting the height in my router table needs two hands, so it would be good if the gauge is freestanding.

Can the L-shape be turned around? On my tablesaw, the blade is closer to the right edge of the insert. I wouldn't trust a measurement based on the insert, so I'd want the base of the L to be resting on the table itself. The L as shown in the pic would be resting on the insert. Not good.

[Joe Scharle]

I have one of each of those and find the horseshoe more versatile. It wont stand on it's own, but I've learned to operate it with that inconvenience. I can quickly set bit height in the vertical and distance to fence in the horizontal. Comes with 2 tips and extra batteries, BTW. I picked up the h shaped a couple of years ago with the expectation that the magnetic base would be a help with saw blade height settings. The magnets on mine aren't strong enough and my router plates are aluminum, so I have to hold it anyway. I still use my shop made, low tech horseshoe gauge (uses 6" rule), but it can't measure depth, i.e. dados.

[Bruce Page]

As a retired machinist with a machinist mentality,:rolleyes: the second one is more versatile. Machinist have used that style for decades. I have a 10” non-digital that I use often for scribing lines and for close setup work.

[mike holden]

As an ex-patternmaker, we always said that the height gage was our right arm. But in this case, it is the wrong tool for the job, you want a dial indicator for this as it allows you to rock the saw blade back and forth to find the high point and allows you to pass it across the router bit to find the high point. I would suggest getting a flat point for the indicator, they come in sets and you will find other shapes quite useful.
Mike

[Myk Rian]

A combination square is all you need.