Dining room table - Leg/apron corner bracing

[Maurice Arney]

Never mind....

[Jamie Buxton]

I've never been able to figure out why that lag bolt approach is used on commercial furniture. Perhaps it has to do with shipping the tables -- like an early version of Ikea's flat-packing. However, it isn't very durable. I've seen too many old tables where the lag bolt has come loose, or split out.

At any rate, I'd make your table by mortise-and-tenoning the aprons to the legs, with glue. It is a stronger and more durable connection than that lag bolt approach. (And my approach would get you out of your interchangeability issue. The legs are glued to the aprons, so they're not interchangeable.)

[Brent Ring]

I would think - with a little better tolerancing, this design would work well. 269524269525

[Maurice Arney]

Never mind...

[Paul Symchych]

I second Jamie's approach but will add that i also like to pin the M&T joints with a hardwood dowel. The pin is insurance against racking and in my eye a contrasting wood pin adds a decorative and "custom" touch. Aprons mortise and tenon joined to legs have proven to be rock solid over the centuries.

Lag bolts are quick and easy, long term unstable, and best for cheaper commercial furniture.

[Maurice Arney]

Never mind...

[Stephen Cherry]

But it would be impossible to get it out of my shop and into the house if the legs don't come off!

Glue up the short apron to the legs in the shop, place it in the room, and glue the long aprons in the house.

If you build a mortise and tenon table in a hundred years someone will be using it.

[Jamie Buxton]

But it would be impossible to get it out of my shop and into the house if the legs don't come off!

Really? Two people, one at each end. Pick the table up, and roll it on to one long edge. You have a U-shaped object which is pretty easy to bend around corners or through doorways. It bends more easily one direction than the other, so sometimes you have to think about it before you get to the corner. And if you have a 36"-wide front door, which is quite common, you can walk right through without any bending at all.

If you're not convinced, make up a template from scrap: an 84" stick with two 30" sticks fastened to it. That's the U-shape. I'll bet you can walk it out of the shop and into the dining room.

[Maurice Arney]

Never mind...

[Maurice Arney]

Never mind...

[Stephen Cherry]

Never mind...

When there is a will there is a way. One option would be to pin the tenons on the long apron without gluing. When you want to move the table you drill a hole in the pin, drive a screw into it, and pull it out like a nail. Or just drill a through hole in the leg and drive the pin all the way through.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qa8K_CH3eaI

[Paul Symchych]

Anyone know what all this "never mind" is all about?

[Maurice Arney]

Anyone know what all this "never mind" is all about?

Because it is not possible to delete a thread. I'll try re-wording my inquiry in another thread to hopefully keep it on subject.

[Myk Rian]

I'm reading this thread, looking for the OP, but it's been replaced. Now you want to start a new thread?

[Maurice Arney]

I'm reading this thread, looking for the OP, but it's been replaced. Now you want to start a new thread?

Ya it's kind of a "pet peeve" of mine but I find it really annoying when someone tries to "hijack" a thread and take it off topic. It's like posting something asking for advice on how to make a round table and right away you start getting replies all about why you shouldn't make your table round. Since the thread was filling up with NVA (No Value Added) remarks I tried to delete it which is not allowed. I suppose I could have just let this one go and let folks argue about whether or not "tables should be round," but I thought it would be better to start fresh. However on second thought I guess I'll just stick with "never mind."

[Brian Holcombe]

This has been a conundrum for myself as well, I am building a dining table for my sister as a wedding present. So far my plan is to build the legs so that they are attached in pairs with the skirt mortised into the legs on the sides of the table. Then the apron that runs the length of the table will be guided by dowels and bolt to the legs. Most aprons I build have a support that runs their length and attaches to the table since most of the aprons I build are very slim.

For myself I would simply glue up the legs, but they live in an apartment which is a bit difficult to navigate with furniture that has the legs attached.