Hans Wegner "The Chair"

[Derek Cohen]

My next project is to build one, possibly two, chairs. I am inspired by "The Chair" by Hans Wegner. It is a classic Danish design, no doubt familiar to many of you.


The version I am interested in is the original dovetailed design, with a woven seat (which I plan to do). The only aspect of this I do not like is the binding at the top rail (which was done to hide the dovetailing, and then omitted on later versions).


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Chairs/Wegner1_zps46e4758a.jpg


Here is the solid seat version without the binding ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Chairs/Wegner13_zpsf39432ec.jpeg


Here is the dovetailed rail ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Chairs/Wegner17_zps62ea7931.jpeg


What I am after are dimensions, especially the thicknesses and widths of the rails, legs and arms. I have dimensions of the heights and width.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Chairs/Wegner4a_zps76e83bc0.jpeg


This is a machine-made chair, but I will build it with hand tools.


I do like the clean lines of Scandinavian designs. This is one of The Wegner chairs that appeals. Please do post any designs that you like.


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Chris Griggs]

Cool chair and interesting joinery. I look forward to seeing how you pull it off.

[Jamie Buxton]

Those sure are pretty chairs. That finger/scarf joint strikes me as something which would be quick and easy if one used a great big shaper, which may be how the originals were made. But it might be a bit of a pain in a small shop. Perhaps another way to form the arms+back would be to bricklay it. The corner joinery would be much simpler to do -- almost trivial. (Of course, shaping the arms+back remains extremely challenging. There's no way around that!)

[Steve Voigt]

(snipped for clarity) My next project is to build one, possibly two, chairs. I am inspired by "The Chair" by Hans Wegner. It is a classic Danish design, no doubt familiar to many of you…
What I am after are dimensions, especially the thicknesses and widths of the rails, legs and arms. I have dimensions of the heights and width…

This is a machine-made chair, but I will build it with hand tools…

Derek

Hi Derek,
I don't have any dimensions,but you should check out Caleb James' blog (http://kapeldesigns.blogspot.com/). He makes these, does a lot of hand work, and does a lot of other cool stuff (windsors, moulding planes, etc.). Might be worth an email to see if he'll share any numbers with you.

[Max Withers]

Derek, I've got these chairs and can make some measurements for you shortly. They are really awesome chairs, and I look forward to seeing you build one.

[Jim Matthews]

PP Moebler has a video online (http://www.pp.dk/index.php?page=gallery&cat=14&id=173) showing some of the unique tooling still in use to make these under the Wegner name.

While I understand the necessities of machine tooling to generate profit in making furniture,
it's disappointing to see so much of the current production effectively a programming exercise.

What species do you plan to use? There are some very short stub mortises and tight transitions from the arms to uprights.
I can't imagine the racking forces concentrated on such a small dowel section.

(Not that I know much about chairs, other than how to use one, and replace the occasional seat cushion.)

[Shawn Pixley]

Derek, I've got these chairs and can make some measurements for you shortly. They are really awesome chairs, and I look forward to seeing you build one.

I'd like to ask if I could get the dimensions as well? I'd really appreciate it. SWMBO wants new chairs for the dining room. What she wants, she generally gets.

[Andrew Hughes]

It's is a sharp looking chair,Very close to Sam maloofs chair the arms at least.

[Max Withers]

Well, I don't have metric rules or even outside calipers, but I can get you to a sixteenth of an inch. The arm rails are 18" long to the back side of the finger joints... I'm not sure I'd call them dovetails. Apparently the first version with the caning did use dovetails, but mine are the later solid seat ones, and the joint looks like your detail above, probably made with a shaper.

The arms are 3" wide at the widest point, where they are 1 1/4" high.

In the (approximate) middle of the joint they are 1 3/16" w x 2 7/16" h. (The top and bottom fingers are formed from the back piece, so you have some leeway here)

The cylindrical protrusions (what do I call those?!) that are mortised to meet the legs extend 2 1/4" below the top of the arm in the back (top width 1 1/2"), and 1 3/8" in the front (top width 1 3/4"). Both are 1 3/16" diameter.

Didn't get out the level but the bases of those cylinders look level, which should give you an idea of the front-back pitch of the arm. Not constant of course, most if not all of the drop happens in the back so they are pretty much level where you actually rest your arm.

The back is 4 3/4" high in the middle, tapering down to the dimensions given above for the joint. It is 1 1/2" thick in the middle. Length is 17". The distance between the back at the center and the front edge of the joint is 4 1/2".

That curve looks about 4" on the arms at the widest point.

Sorry I don't use sketchup, or have much experience in precision joinery! If these aren't useful numbers, let me know what you need. I do have a new (old) vernier caliper so I can get you hundredths of inch measurements, although I'm not sure how much more accurate they'd be considering user error.

Best,
Max

[Metod Alif]

Hi Derek,
"I have dimensions of the heights and width."
My impression is that you have a pretty good sense of proportions. Given the height and the width, gives you a start for the rest of dimensions. Once done, please share your 'proportion thoughts'. I am probably not the only one who would benefit and appreciate it.
Best wishes,
Metod

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, I've got these chairs and can make some measurements for you shortly. They are really awesome chairs, and I look forward to seeing you build one.

Hi Max

Thanks Max. (Edit: I see you have posted!)

Here is what I have ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Chairs/Dimensions1_zpsc64213ae.jpg

These dimensions are metric (in cm).


It's is a sharp looking chair,Very close to Sam maloofs chair the arms at least.

Hi Andrew

I had planned to build a Maloof chair at one stage (even have the plans and all), but this Wegner design has a lighter feel to it that will fit in better. Is it possible to incorporate a little Maloof into this design without removing something? I wonder ..

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Prashun Patel]

"Is it possible to incorporate a little Maloof into this design without removing something? I wonder .."

The most obvious way would be to introduce Maloof joints at the seat/arms.

That scarf joint is really special. When/if you do that, I'd love to see a tutorial.

The thing that always attracted me to Maloof's designs is that the pieces tend to start off as large, squared blocks that enable straightforward joinery. The sculpting is all done after, which makes the joints look trickier than they really are. Also, a maloof/sculpted piece can be as light as you choose to make it. The sculpting is truly that act of 'lightening'. IMHO, a lot of people stop short in this step.

[Deane Allinson]

One of my favorite chairs. Can't wait to see how it comes out. I have a soft spot for Danish chairs.
I did a danish cord seat like the first photo. It came out very nice but I'm sure that I invented several new curse words during the process.

[Jim Matthews]

Is it possible to incorporate a little Maloof into this design without removing something? I wonder ..Derek

A sculpted seat would be an interesting mashup of the two designs.
I think making a rocking Wegner would require lots more pillows behind the chairs.

[Jim Matthews]

[QUOTE=Prashun Patel;2148971The thing that always attracted me to Maloof's designs is that the pieces tend to start off as large, squared blocks that enable straightforward joinery. The sculpting is all done after, which makes the joints look trickier than they really are. Also, a maloof/sculpted piece can be as light as you choose to make it. The sculpting is truly that act of 'lightening'. IMHO, a lot of people stop short in this step.[/QUOTE]

There's a video posted by Brian Boggs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ug3Tsn45Ao0) illustrating this principle.
The joints are built large enough to clamp, and are shaped afterwards.

My only involvement with chairs in woodworking is sitting right here to yap about it.
Chairs are above my pay grade.

[Jim Matthews]

I have a soft spot for Danish chairs.

Don't we all?

[Brian Holcombe]

Maybe rather than duplicate the chair, you could find historical inspiration similar to how Hans Wegner found inspiration in Han Dynasty chairs. I think it would offer you more of the credit you will ultimately deserve when you complete this than if you were to simply build a chair that has been built by some of Denmark's top cabinet shops for many years. You will ultimately find yourself forfeiting credit when someone comes along with a knowledge of furniture and inquires about your piece.

[Max Withers]

Derek, let me know what kinds of measurements will be useful, and if you can deal with the imperial conversion, and I'll get it for you.

I'm particularly interested to learn how you form those mortise cylinders -- I guess the word would be bosses?-- on the bottom of the arms. All I can think of is a (modified) hole saw and a ****load of sandpaper. I assume you have a treadle lathe for the legs? Not that I'd judge for going electric there, they have to be turned. Of course the scarf/finger/dovetail joint will be a highlight too.

re: Brian's comment above, I get the point, but EVERY surface on this chair is curved and tapered. Recreating that with a drawknife is going to be intensely individual. If anyone could build a slavish reproduction of this chair by hand, it's probably Derek, but I suspect the final product is going to be plenty personalized.

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Max. I shall put together a few photos with arrows where the important measurements need to be. Imperial or Metric is all the same to me. Probably better in Metric since the chair is Danish :)

I do have and will use a powered lathe for the legs. I cannot think of a better tool for this. There will be a fair amount of hand shaping, but there is no guilt in roughing out with machines.

Joinery for this chair is mainly mortice-and-tenon. I've seen some footage of these going together, but not being made.

Once the dimensions are sorted out, it should not be too difficult to work out a strategy. As always, let's hear from anyone who has done this.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Andrew Joiner]

PP Moebler has a video online (http://www.pp.dk/index.php?page=gallery&cat=14&id=173) showing some of the unique tooling still in use to make these under the Wegner name.

While I understand the necessities of machine tooling to generate profit in making furniture,
it's disappointing to see so much of the current production effectively a programming exercise.

What species do you plan to use? There are some very short stub mortises and tight transitions from the arms to uprights.
I can't imagine the racking forces concentrated on such a small dowel section.

(Not that I know much about chairs, other than how to use one, and replace the occasional seat cushion.)

Thanks for the video link, Jim. All Danish Modern furniture has inspired me since I was a kid. This chair is so classic.
I agree the 4-small dowels that join the legs seem inadequate. However they video points out they ease the shoulders because the racking creates an obvious moving joint. The test of time must prove they have a low enough failure rate in that area.
Fascinating video.

[Max Withers]

Here's a side elevation. If this is useful I'll tackle the front later. I suspect the 1/32" height difference I got between the legs is just differential wear over the last 40 years or so.

270120

edit: the height of the seat rail is different because the seat is pitched (higher in the front) and the back leg is splayed more than the front (that's those green angles at the bottom, v. approximate).

[Derek Cohen]

Many thanks Max.

The other measurement to add to my list are the inside and outside angles of the back rest.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Max

Here are further measurements! (It would probably be easier if you just send the chair to me!! :) ) ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Chairs/Dimensions4_zps309dcb91.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Chairs/Dimensions6_zps70d168f6.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Chairs/Dimensions5_zpsca2c5047.jpg

Thanks.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Max Withers]

I'm on it Derek, it just make take me a few days! Hope you're enjoying the metric conversions.

[Max Withers]

270629
270630

More to come! Sorry this is taking me so long.

[Max Withers]

Here's an un-annotated detail of the joint to ponder while you wait:

270631

You can see the top of the leg is ever so slightly chamfered to meet the arm, as mentioned in the video Jim posted. The other legs on this chair are more subtle.

[Derek Cohen]

Many thanks Max. It looks like I soon will be able to make up some templates. Keep the dimensions coming.

That chamfer was, if I recall, to emphasise the joint.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Max Withers]

Sorry this took so long! I am a horrible internet correspondant.
271036
271037

I got a little confused about what you were after on the seat rail arcs: the measurement given (2 1/4") is from the (center) front face of the upholstered part to the plane formed by the inside of the legs. Add 1/2" to get to the face of the rail.

I'm also unsure of what angle you want on the back rest -- or maybe how to measure it. With a bevel, protractor and a lot of eyeball, I come up with 84º:
271038

The thickness at the base is right around an inch.

Sorry, again, for the hold up, and I will try to be faster with any clarifications you need.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Max

You are an absolute Star! If I can do justice to Wegner's design, the principle reason will be because of the dimensions you are provided. Trying to scale from a picture is terribly difficult, and with this chair probably too difficult as there are many subtle angles to contend with.

Next step is to draw up some templates so that I can choose the wood.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Scott Oxenhandler]

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Been hand making this amazing chair inspired by Hans Wegner, Derek Cohen and his website https://www.inthewoodshop.com. Taking pointers and measurements from this post too. Been a while so hoping someone sees this post. If so please respond and check out more pics on instagram @scotty_woodworker. this is my first post on this forum, found it while researching how to even begin hand making this chair.

[Scott Oxenhandler]

Derek, Thanks for your website and posts on Hans Wegner's "the chair". I too have been inspired to build it and have greatly benefited from your posts and measurements given by others. This is my prototype first Wegner/Cohen inspired chair. Not perfect but I've captured the knowledge to make another. The next one will have slightly different angles on the legs. Anyway I hope you see this and can respond. I document my work on instagram @scotty_woodworker. I've built other chairs and rockers, some my own design and a lot of Maloof style.

[Bruce Page]

Beautiful craftsmanship Scott. You should start a new thread.

[Derek Cohen]

Scott, I agree with Bruce that your chair deserves a thread of its own.

This particular thread was replaced with a build thread, from start to finish. I will post my finished chair here as the way this thread ended suggests that the chair was not completed.

It needs to be noted that the aim - and challenge - of my build was to create an exact replica of The Chair. I was fortunate to later find and purchase one of Hans Wegner's original chairs, and this gave me dimensions. Even so, it was a difficult process to translate measurements on compound angles and compound parts into exact copies. The end result was very satisfying.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/WeavingSeatCompletingTheChair_html_m4441928f.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/WeavingSeatCompletingTheChair_html_2ebf780e.jpg

I chose to weave the seat in Danish Cord, rather than make a padded one. I love the look of this, preferring it to the padded version I have ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/WeavingSeatCompletingTheChair_html_m1a3cedf0.jpg

The Chair was submitted in 2016 to Pop Wood magazine for their annual furniture competition. This was the result ....

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/PopWoodTheChair.html

Regards from Perth

Derek