To anchorseal or not to anchorseal

[Peter Blair]

This post is primarily for newer turners who continue to enquire about the benefits of end treatment of logs. I did remove the pith but on rounds where I hadn't removed the pith the results were very similar. The maple tree was cut in November last year.
Here are a couple of photos taken yesterday.
In my opinion they are pretty conclusive.
The Anchorseal I used is the original formula not the newer one.
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[Fred Belknap]

Pete I assume the block on the left has been treated with AS and the one on the right hasn't. My experience is that after one year blocks that have been sealed with Anchorseal will begin cracking. I have been sealing the whole block except where there is bark, I'm not sure that this will extend the time I can keep blocks. I store my blocks in a barn and another building that is dry but no heat and little light. Some wood seems to last longer than others. Dang I didn't mean to make it sound so complicated.

[Peter Blair]

Hey Fred.
I messed up again!
I was supposed to let everyone know that this is the same block. Photographed from both ends. I guess I forgot to coat the one end but it is sure apparent that there are a lot fewer cracks in the treated end.
Here's a shot of my storage area.
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This shot was taken after I spent the day cutting both with my chainsaw and bandsaw.
The 'shed' backs onto a southern fence and I put a sheet of OSB over it to keep the sun off the wood.
I have been experimenting with a freezer but would really like to be able to 'air' dry my wood rather than freeze dry it!

[robert baccus]

It can be very slow to dry wood of much thickness. Have you tried turning wet wood? I keep my best in my bride's lilly pond for days or years to prevent cracking but also because turning wet wood is so easy. Especially if you are doing hollow forms or vases.

[Dan Hintz]

Have you tried turning wet wood? ...turning wet wood is so easy. Especially if you are doing hollow forms or vases.

Agreed... turning dry wood as it burns the snot out of your hands is not fun.

[Peter Blair]

Dan and Robert. I much prefer to turn green wood. As you both say it is much more fun and easier on tools and hands but in this instance at least I am trying to get this Maple to Spalt. The spalting has begun but I am hoping for a little more color before I turn it. You do bring a good question to mind though. I have never tried to turn green and then get the wood to spilt. Has anyone had any luck with this? I usually boil and bag my rough turned pieces.

[Dan Hintz]

If you turn to finish thickness, splitting is minimized (depending upon species, of course). If you rough turn green, seal the endgrain and let it sit for a year (or go for the alcohol treatment like me).

[Peter Blair]

Hey Dan. I agree. BUT will it spilt?

[Dan Hintz]

Hey Dan. I agree. BUT will it spilt?

If you're trying to get it to split, I'm sure most species would be happy to oblige. Seal one side of the endgrain and let the other go... the unsealed side will dry out more quickly and probably split. If you want to speed up the process, put an incandescent bulb next to one side.