Uh oh...now what?

[Carole Valentine]

OK, granted, I probably picked the wrong form to try for my first vase , but here I am and there is no going back. :o Don't have any mentors or turners locally I can ask, so you guys are it! I drilled the depth hole, started hollowing and all was going fine until I got about halfway, then I realized that the swan neck tool (Hollowmaster) was too big and was not going to get it. I can't get the tip of the tool into the drilled hole at this point because of the narrow neck. What should I be using? Just a straight boring tool? (Don't have one yet but I have a Scorpion and Stinger on order...will that do?) I briefly considered a gouge, but after one almost disasterous attempt, I abandoned that idea. What is the tool for a situation like this?
http://www.esva.net/%7Epchousecalls/nowwhat.jpg

[Kurt Forbes]

a round nose scraper should work ok for that one or a good shear scraper.

[Richard Allen]

Hi Carol

Just change the angle of the cutter and have at it.

Good luck

Richard

[Richard Wolf]

How about getting the tool rest inside, and you move behind the lathe and start with a bowl gouge or scraper.

Richard

[Carole Valentine]

I have changed the bit angle as much as possible. Still can't get to the center of the bottom because the shank of the tool hits the inside of the neck. Can't get the cutter inside the drilled hole in the bottom of the vessel. I'll have another go with the round nose scraper. I tried that once, but even with the tool rest right at the mouth of the vessel, there is so much of the scraper hanging over I have a lot of trouble controlling it. Guess this is all part of the learning process!

[Jim Becker]

Most hollowing is done with a straight tool, at least initially. But if you hollow in stages, you may be able to use your current tool. Don't think you need to do the whole thing at once and you will also reduce vibration. Once you get the neck fleshed out, see if you can begin to work the bent tool by bringing the handle towards you.

[Carole Valentine]

I'm getting it...slowly! I only have about a half inch left to go. I have been getting out what I can in the center with the round nose then the swan neck gets the sides. I had to make the opening in the neck a little larger to make it work, but that's OK. Now...if I can just avoit going thru the side! LOL

[Charlie Plesums]

... Don't have any mentors or turners locally I can ask, so you guys are it! ....

Do you know Barbara Gill ... also in eastern Virginia... see http://www.velvitoil.com/Barbara'sWoodturnings.htm

[Carole Valentine]

I know Barb. I used to be her neighbor when I was married, but she is 3 hrs from me - on the other side of the Cheasapeake Bay. :( Had to quit on the vase until I get my other tools. About a eighth inch from the bottom I couldn't keep the scraper from vibrating. The tool rest was almost touching the vase but the scraper was at full extension (shank almost on the rest) so I am not surprised. I started to see some very small cracks. I have CAed them and will put it aside until I have the skills to finish it.

[Glenn Hodges]

Carole, now you have the depth hole take a side ground bowl gouge down into the hole, and pull it back as the piece is turning. This is the way lots of people make boxes when doing end grain turning. Some use scrapers, but I find these gouges work well for me in this manner. When I get to where it is difficult to remove wood with the gouge, I go to a hollowing tool. This is what Jim was saying, I think. The hollowing tool comes after I can remove all the wood I can with the gouge. Try this, and let us know how it works for you.

[Bill Esposito]

Carole,

I have the Scorpion/Stinger set myself. The Stinger tools can make a racket if you get them chattering.

While you're waiting for the set, run out to your local HW store and pick up a couple of 1/8" HSS drill bits. What you're going to want to do is cut the shank off at about 1/2"-3/4" to make a short cutter out of the shank (bi-metal hacksaw or dremel cutoff wheel). Then put it in a straight Stinger bar and grind it per the instructions.

http://cerealport.net/woodworking/scorpion_cutters.jpg

The included cutters are kinda long (1 3/4") and I was putting them in about half way which left some length sticking out the back side. With the short cutter, you can insert it into the end of the stinger set and not have any cutter hanging out the back end of the bar.

The pic above shows the Stinger cutter, a 3/4" cutter in the curved bar and a 1/2" cutter in the straight bar.

[Carole Valentine]

Wow, those cutters are long.:eek: Thanks for the advice. Almost looks like the included cutters are long enough to cut them in half and make two cutters?