I BOX Headache (s)

[Rick Hubbard]

After watching Incra's video twice I decided this morning to takes a test drive with the IBOX. I was pretty impressed with the quality of the tool however even after going through the set up FIVE times (3 times on the router table and twice on the table saw) I still cannot come up with a tight fitting joint. Anybody have a suggestion about what I am doing wrong?:confused:

[Tony Joyce]

I'd say it's in the setup. I use mine on a table saw with a couple of different width blades. I had to pause the DVD several times and go through the steps one at a time til I got it right. Once I figured it out it works like a charm. Mine were too tight to begin with. So keep trying.

Sorry, probably not much help.

Tony

[Bill Huber]

Let me see if I can help.

Rotate the red knob until the 2 sliver stops or guides just come together, counter clockwise.
Now rotate the sliver knob to do the kiss calibrate, I use an old playing card for this.
Now rotate the red knob clockwise to pull it away from the bit.
Make a test cut, this will show the width of the open part of the joint.
Now place the open slot over the 2 silver stops and rotate the red knob until the test board just fits on the stops, not real tight or loose.
Tighten the black lock on the top and you are ready to go.
I use 2 test boards and make 3 cuts in each board as a test.
If the joint is to tight then loosen the lock black knob on top, hold the red knob and turn the sliver one counter clockwise lock the top knob and do another test.
If the joint is to loose the lock black knob on top, then hold the red knob and turn the sliver one clockwise.
Remember each little mark on the end of the red knob is .001", so it is a very fine adjustment when turning the sliver knob.

I hope this helps....

[Rick Hubbard]

Thanks Bill! That was indeed helpful. Of course just getting away from the shop for a few hours probably didn't hurt either.

I'm thinking maybe you should go to work for Incra as a Tech Writer. You managed to condense into a few lines what they couldn't clearly state in a 1 hour DVD and 12 page instruction manual.:rolleyes:

[Rick Hubbard]

Moral support ALWAYS helps, Tony.

Thanks

[Beau Cassidy]

I usually make a tight fit when setting the adjustment. I will usually get a little slippage/loosening if doing many cuts/boxes at one. Admittedly I haven't used mine as much as most folks here but that seems to be the best way mine works for me.

[Cody Colston]

I used mine for the first time a couple of days ago and was very impressed with the fit. I was making a wooden ring binder and the spline was 12" long. Both sides fit like a glove right off the saw after following the set-up instructions. I didn't watch the video.

[Alan Schaffter]

Thanks again Bill!

I'd like to make two points.

I said this quite awhile ago now, but "theoretically", an "accurately" set I-BOX will yield joints that may be "too perfect"- they may be too tight. When you think about what you are doing when you set the pin spacing to the size of the kerf, you are setting the I-BOX to make pins and slots, that are exactly the same size and leaving no space for glue, no space for wood that may have some very slight amount of spring-back after cutting, etc. One test cut and a little micro adjust will fix that. After you use the I-BOX for awhile you will get a feel for how you, personally, set the I-BOX and will be able to dial in a thou or two of micro from the start and avoid any testing whatsoever. Setting is highly user dependent - some folks have a delicate touch, some are ham-fisted. That can be significant when you are cutting a joint where the difference between a lose and tight fit are just a few thou. I used the I-BOX to make a set of lose, normal and tight fitting sample joints for a show I did at the Klingspore show last year. The results surprised even me- the difference between a very lose joint and tight one was less than 10 thou- ten tic marks of micro!!

The special dual pitch leadscrew in the I-BOX is precision made by the same folks that make INCRA's LS Positioners. It is not hardware store "All thread." The followers (threaded part that moves along the leadscrew) are precision milled as well and are designed to limit back lash (sloppiness you see in standard nuts and bolts). But you still have what amounts to nut and bolt action- just like any threaded rod (bolt, vise leadscrew, just about any adjustment screw, etc.), after you have tightened it, you can also coax another 1/4, 1l2 or more of turn! The I-BOX is no different and so if you are not careful mating the guide pins during initial calibration or are too aggressive setting the pin spacing, you may over-drive the followers on the leadscrew. One of the early purchasers of the I-BOX could not make a good joint, but once he realized he was using too much force and over-rotating the main adjustment knob, he was able to make a good joint on the first try.