Beale buffing wax

[kevin nee]

Hello, I use the BEALE BUFFING system. I have been reading a lot
about Ren wax. In order for me to change over from carnuba wax
which was supplied by Beale, would I need to buy a new wheel for
the different wax. Thanks in advance, Kevin

[John Keeton]

I think the safest response is Yes. I don't know of anyway to completely clean the wheel, short of some intensive laundry work, and I don't know if it would stand up to that.

[Fred Belknap]

I use both with mine and don't see any problem but I am happy with either wax. I don't seem to have the spotting that others have reported with the carnuba wax when a bowl gets some water on it. On some item like pens I use an old teeshirt to buff the Ren wax.

[Paul Singer]

I think alot of people on here hand buff the Ren wax. I have machine buffed Ren wax and really do not find an improvement over just a quick buff with a flannel towel by hand. The Ren wax dries to a rather hard finish in a short amount of time so I hand buff it right after application. You use so little that a can of it last forever it seems.

[David C. Roseman]

Agree with Paul on this. I started using Ren wax only a few months ago, and was surprised at how different it is from carnuba, especially the hardness of the finish. Was skeptical of it's high price, but it really is remarkable stuff with just hand buffing. But I think I'd do a little experimenting using it with your existing wheel before I replaced an otherwise good wheel.

David

[Kyle Iwamoto]

You guys use the carnuba first then the Ren wax by hand? That's what I do. Some skip the carnuba.

[Michael Gibson]

I think you will find if you forget the carnuba wax and just use the Renaissance you will have a better finish. If you do that you can also use the wax wheel you once used with the carnuba, just hold the corner of a wooden block against the cloth and it will soon be clear of the old wax, a piece of course sandpaper does the same.
Michael.

[Doug Wolf]

I always use the carnuba first to give it the piece a hard base coat. After power buffing the carnuba I apply Ren wax with (usually) my finger and buff by hand with soft towel. This gives you the deep shine of the carnuba with the fingerprint protection of the Ren wax.

[Curt Fuller]

My first impulse was to agree with what Fred said. And if you're a casual hobbyist woodturner like me I think you would be fine using the same wheel for both. But I then googled Renaissance Wax just out of curiosity because I was thinking it probably had a little carnuba in it anyway. From what I found on wikipedia (and I know wikipedia isn't always gospel) I think it would be better to have separate wheels for each wax. If you're a real genuine artist :rolleyes: and you're concerned about how your work is going to withstand the tests of time, it says that waxes containing carnuba and beeswax either contain acids or acidify over time. I'm not sure what effect that has on wood but on paper, photos, and many other art items that slowly destroys them. But then you have to ask yourself what the WOP or AO or lacquer or whatever else you applying under the Ren wax contains.

[Thom Sturgill]

Curt - lacquer has stood the test of time... It has been in use for probably thousands of years. Ren wax is also sometimes called museum wqx as it is used there to protect items on display, so again great for art pieces though I'm not sure about bowls designed to be used.
As to cleaning the wheel, I did what Jeff said - held a piece of wood against the wheel to clean it. Worked for me.

[Michael Gibson]

Curnuba wax will dull after a relatively short time, that is why l do not use it anymore. Ren wax gives a much better protective cover and a nicer shine. Michael.

[Scott Conners]

On big items I sometimes machine buff ren wax with a clean buff (I only use it for ren wax or clean surfaces). They are only a few bucks from someplace like grainger or harbor fright. I stopped using carnuba once I got ren wax.