David Eisan
05-27-2005, 10:48 AM
Hello everyone,
I managed to get the adaptor plates made and installed for the DeWALT sliding table last night,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/adptfront.jpg
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/adpback.jpg
I bought two pieces of 1/4" thick, 2-1/2" wide by 24" long aluminium flat stock. I measured down 7/16 from the top edge of the Unisaw cast iron top and clamped them in place. I marked for three holes and then drilled through the aluminium on my drill press with a 5/16" bit. The three holes then were countersunk with a 5/8" countersink so the cap head screws would sit flush with the plate when installed. I clamped the plates back in place on the saw and marked my holes front and back on the Unisaw table edge. I drilled the cast iron table edge with a 3/8" bit to give me a little wiggle room when installing the adaptor plate. With the adaptor plate installed, I clamped the DeWALT sliding table brackets in place behind the adaptor plate, flush under Unisaw table edge and marked the holes from behind. I removed the aluminium adaptor plates, drilled 5/16" holes on my marks and again countersunk with a 5/8" countersink.
I reinstalled the adaptor plates to the Unisaw table edge and also bolted the DeWALT sliding table brackets to the adaptor plates. Everything lined up bolted together very well.
Next I installed the General T-Square (Biesemeyer) fence. Pretty strait forward, I have lost count of how many I have installed, in fact, I had installed one on a Unisaw earlier in the day at a local high school. Nothing exciting here, Mark some holes and drill them. I did have to cut about 12" off of both front and rear fence rails to allow them to clear the sliding table.
Fence rails installed,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/frontrail.jpg
Shot of under the front of the table,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/boltsfront.jpg
You can see how the aluminium adaptor plate I made allows the DeWALT sliding table support rail to be directly under and flush with the front edge of the cast iron table.
Here I have stuffed a 3/4" thick piece of MDF in the mitre slot and I am running a dial indicator back and fourth to check that the sliding table is parallel to the mitre slot,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/aligntable.jpg
Yawn, bashing together a filler box to fit between the front and back fence rails. Made with 5/8" melamine and 3/4" Baltic birch plywood. High end joinery with pocket screws,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/fillerbox.jpg
I installed the filler box and added the table legs.
Here is the saw almost done,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/almost1.jpg
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/almost2.jpg
All I need to do now is install the switch and make a few more fine
adjustments.
---
For the full horror, here is part 1 of the rebuild,
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=20029
And part 2,
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=20593
Thanks,
David.
I managed to get the adaptor plates made and installed for the DeWALT sliding table last night,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/adptfront.jpg
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/adpback.jpg
I bought two pieces of 1/4" thick, 2-1/2" wide by 24" long aluminium flat stock. I measured down 7/16 from the top edge of the Unisaw cast iron top and clamped them in place. I marked for three holes and then drilled through the aluminium on my drill press with a 5/16" bit. The three holes then were countersunk with a 5/8" countersink so the cap head screws would sit flush with the plate when installed. I clamped the plates back in place on the saw and marked my holes front and back on the Unisaw table edge. I drilled the cast iron table edge with a 3/8" bit to give me a little wiggle room when installing the adaptor plate. With the adaptor plate installed, I clamped the DeWALT sliding table brackets in place behind the adaptor plate, flush under Unisaw table edge and marked the holes from behind. I removed the aluminium adaptor plates, drilled 5/16" holes on my marks and again countersunk with a 5/8" countersink.
I reinstalled the adaptor plates to the Unisaw table edge and also bolted the DeWALT sliding table brackets to the adaptor plates. Everything lined up bolted together very well.
Next I installed the General T-Square (Biesemeyer) fence. Pretty strait forward, I have lost count of how many I have installed, in fact, I had installed one on a Unisaw earlier in the day at a local high school. Nothing exciting here, Mark some holes and drill them. I did have to cut about 12" off of both front and rear fence rails to allow them to clear the sliding table.
Fence rails installed,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/frontrail.jpg
Shot of under the front of the table,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/boltsfront.jpg
You can see how the aluminium adaptor plate I made allows the DeWALT sliding table support rail to be directly under and flush with the front edge of the cast iron table.
Here I have stuffed a 3/4" thick piece of MDF in the mitre slot and I am running a dial indicator back and fourth to check that the sliding table is parallel to the mitre slot,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/aligntable.jpg
Yawn, bashing together a filler box to fit between the front and back fence rails. Made with 5/8" melamine and 3/4" Baltic birch plywood. High end joinery with pocket screws,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/fillerbox.jpg
I installed the filler box and added the table legs.
Here is the saw almost done,
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/almost1.jpg
http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/almost2.jpg
All I need to do now is install the switch and make a few more fine
adjustments.
---
For the full horror, here is part 1 of the rebuild,
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=20029
And part 2,
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=20593
Thanks,
David.