Saw handle sanding question. Power sander?????

[David Wadstrup]

Just a quick advice question...

I've recently begun rehabbing old saws for my personal use. Generally, I like to strip the handles down to the wood(I'm not so concerned with patina, and prefer a clean, freshly oiled handle, especially to built up grime, and chipped, worn finish.) On the first 2 I did, I sanded by hand. They didn't take too long, but it wasn't the most fun part of the project. Plus, I've got 3 more waiting to be done. So, I've thought about using a powered sander. Specifically, the Festool Rotex 90 (http://festoolusa.com/power-tools/sanders/ROTEX-ro-90-dx-multi-mode-sander-571823). Now, I'll admit, I kind of want this sander regardless, and have been looking for an excuse to buy it. What do you think, though, on using this tool on something like a saw handle? I'd use a soft pad, set it to its finest setting, and use fine papers. I do know that there will still be a significant amount of hand sanding left to be done. But any little bit of help I can get would make the purchase worth it for me(and that I can use it on lots of other things as well.) So, essentially, what I'd like to know is: would a powered sanded just be too much for this kind of work? Has anyone ever used one when rehabbing old saw handles?

Thanks for your help.

[David Weaver]

Use some rigid scrapers instead. I went through a phase where I made a bunch of plane handles and several saw handles, and tried to use a power sander, etc, but in the end coarse files and scrapers (even junk plane blades, etc) are a lot better at stripping a handle without rounding details off and making them look tasteless and bland.

[Hilton Ralphs]

I would have thought something like this would be more useful for those curved and flat parts.

269074

[David Weaver]

No (not surprisingly, I have that, too), too much belt tension required to sand a handle accurately.

If you want to power sand a handle, the inflatable drums that work on a lathe are probably the best option to not remove too much detail. If the handles are older style with the very tasteful flats, there is no way to avoid screwing them up power sanding, though.

[Mike Holbrook]

My experience with old tool handles has been very similar to David's. I have tried a Dremel tool and a Fein Multitool but I prefer my Iwasaki and Gramercy files/rasps. I also use sandpaper in a rigid holder or just wrap sticky sandpaper around a piece of wood of the size I need. The Gramercy "Handle Makers Rasp" is probably the most versatile tool for this task.

[Pat Barry]

I would want to try some chemical stripper and stiff brushes to remove the existing film finish, then hand sand to complete the process. I think that orbital sander would be way too aggressive and hard to control for the contours and details of a saw handle. My advice - buy the sander and find a better job for it to do.

[george wilson]

There is no substitute for careful hand sanding with sand paper wrapped around sticks or dowels for making an accurate job on a saw handle,without messing up the sculpture. If you want sharp surfaces,and are just doing a saw or 2,I advise this.

[Mike Holbrook]

I like the Stikit rolls of paper for sanding, available at Highland Woodworking. HW has quite a selection of hand sanding tools and paper.

HW also carries the Triton Oscillating Spindle Sander, accepting sleeves from 1/2-3", looks interesting. Does anyone use one of these spindle sanders? Apparently Delta, Shop Fox and Triton make them, so someone must be using them. A tool like this might be handy for all sorts of edge work when: a drum on a drill press, sanding belt on a bandsaw, belt sander or router doesn't "cut it". There is a hook up for a vac too. One might even be able to get rid of an electric plunge router.

We would still be doing hand work, just not having to "oscillate" for ourselves. I hate giving Chris Griggs a free opportunity like that last line, but it had to be mentioned!

[george wilson]

A decent way to sand small diameter contours is with 1" dia. small flap wheels held in the wood lathe or a drill press. You can get decent control with them for most places around the rounded edges on a saw handle. Not where the lamb's tongue meets the cheek of the handle.

[Hilton Ralphs]

HW also carries the Triton Oscillating Spindle Sander, accepting sleeves from 1/2-3", looks interesting. Does anyone use one of these spindle sanders?

I have one of those orange jigglers. Table doesn't have the best finish compared to say the Jet but it's probably a 1/4 of the price. I like the off-center spindle arrangement. No storage for the spanner for some strange reason. Motor is universal but not too loud. You'll need to get one of those belt sander cleaning blocks as it's pretty easy to glaze up the sleeves.

I have 80, 100 and 150 grit sets of sleeves.

I would have preferred to have a solid/flat table underside for clamping but I suppose one could fill that void with some mdf off-cuts.

I was thinking of mounting mine to a cart that flips over with a scroll saw on the other side but the mounting holes are plastic and I don't know how strong they are to keep the sander suspended upside down.

The oscillation travel isn't the longest out there but the sleeves can be installed upside down to make use of the unused part.

The table doesn't tilt but for the price it's still good.

For the record, they cost $200 here.

[Chris Griggs]

We would still be doing hand work, just not having to "oscillate" for ourselves. I hate giving Chris Griggs a free opportunity like that last line, but it had to be mentioned!

Too easy Mike. I shall remain silent.