Stanley 80 Scraper

[Richard Gillespie]

Last Tuesday night, one of the chat items being discussed was a #80 Stanley. Initially I drew a blank and couldn't mentally place the item. Then I remembered what it was and that I had one up on the top shelf still in the same rust covering I bought it with.

Yesterday, while waiting for a tow truck to pick up and take my wife's car to the body shop (that's another story), I pulled that scraper down and cleaned it up. After removing the rust, I found patent dates on it of 1915. About 85% of the Japanning was intact. The blade was rather easy to sharpen and I quickly started getting curls with it. All in all it is a rather pleasant and easy tool to use. This will be a good addition to the tool collection. I've forgotten the name of the chatter who brought it up but thanks to you anyway.

The tow truck still hadn't showed up so I grabbed the next item up there and it was a no name 1-1/4", #78 also covered in rust. I didn't finish working with that one the sole is nowhere near flat nor square to the side. This tool is going to end up being a project in itself. Thank heaven the tow truck showed up after 2-1/2 hours. Cleaning off heavy rust and flattening soles are not my favorite things to do.

[James Mittlefehldt]

NO problem Richard you are very welcome. As I said in the chat room TLOML found it for me at a garage sale for $5. I think it is a later version but if I am not mistaken it still has the decal on it.

OOPS, was that a gloat?

[chris toomey]

richard

any tips for a neander newbie? i can't get mine to make curls. i also mak a lot of dust with my card scrapers too. i'm sure it is my lack of sharpening skills.....

[Tim Sproul]

Chris,

After sharpening the cabinet scraper iron to ~45 degree bevel, you need to burnish the edge if you want curls.

I'd take a look at the instructions for Lee Valley's cabinet scraper.

[Richard Gillespie]

Chris;

On the #80 I ground the two opposing edges at about 45*. I made sure that the grinds were straight and square to the sides. I then put the blade in my wood vise and using a burnisher, I bent the two thin edges about another 30*. Don't get carried away doing this. You only want to form a razor thin burr along the thin edge. If you were to curl the edge over too much, you'll defeat what you're trying to do (damhikt). Loosen all the set screws in the #80 and insert the blade in the scraper. Let the blade set on the same flat surface as the scraper and tighten the two hold down screws. Now using the the adjustment screw start bending the blade down and test for cuts. You can use any very hard piece of steel as a burnisher or if you are lucky and find a piece of carbide rod that's even better.

My card scrapers use to give me fits. I'd post messages on this and other forums asking how and still get mixed results. I then received my September 2003 copy of American Woodworker. In that issue is an excellent 10 step method for sharpening card scrapers. I keep that issue at my work bench and refer to it to refresh my technique when sharpening.

I'd suggest to you to do a search on this forum and on Wood Central and see if what they say on the subject will help you. If you don't get what you need PM me and I'll write out the instructions for you by email. Since the subject has been covered a number of times I don't want to occupy that much space on the forum. If you do PM me be patient, I'll be out of town for the next 5-7 days.