Are certain cuts safe in reverse?

[Dan Masshardt]

I know that many people sand using reverse on their lathe.

Are there certain times when turning wood in reverse is okay / safe?

The reason I ask is because I was recently watching a YouTube video of Dave from D-way tools using a scraper inside something he had hollowed while the lathe was in reverse. It was a demo for his parting tool I think.

[Richard Coers]

Only if unscrewing your faceplate or chuck under power is considered safe. Not counting lock screws in the mix since not all turners use them.

[John Keeton]

Dave has developed some techniques that work for him, and work very well. I have met Dave, talked extensively with him - both in person and in various phone conversations. He is a superb turner, machinist, toolmaker and demonstrator. I would venture to say that whatever he did on the video was done while taking the necessary safety precautions.

[Dan Masshardt]

Only if unscrewing your faceplate or chuck under power is considered safe. Not counting lock screws in the mix since not all turners use them.

Obviously you'd have a faceplate or chuck with a locking screw. Well, maybe it's not obvious enough, but yes.

To be clear, I'm not looking to to this necessarily.

Although, as a lefty, there are tines it would be useful.

[Richard Jones]

I do some box work with the lathe in reverse, works fine for me.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Dave sells a hollowing tool made specifically for hand hollowing in reverse. He's also got a 'normal' forward rotation version available. Hollowing in reverse allows you to stand at a more 'normal', upright position at the lathe. You've also got a great view of what you're doing without craning your neck. Seems to work for me, but then I'm left-handed to begin with.
I do make certain the grub screws are tightened down on the chuck first. Had the chuck unscrew once when I didn't - but then I didn't bump the chuck to make sure it was fully seated on the spindle shoulder either (my bad - not necessarily caused by turning in reverse). The toolrest stopped it, but it left a ding in the rim I had to turn out.
I have, on occasion turned from the back side of the lathe in reverse - mostly just to see if it felt more natural for me as a native leftie. It didn't. But then for most things that I've had to learn by watching and developing muscle memory, I learn first right handed (mostly because that's the way everyone else is doing it) then adjust the technique I've learned to a more or less ambidextrous level. Then, if I feel the need, I can do it from the left side. As a kid, that's how I learned to hit a baseball, and later swing a golf club.
There are times when I've tried everything to lessen tearout on some really tough highly figured woods and the last resort technique of reverse turning has helped get a better cut, but usually just in that limited area, and it doesn't always make a great enough difference to justify running around to the other side.

[Thomas Canfield]

I have not done reverse turning, but I see it done at a demo. As stated earlier, the faceplate or chuck would need to have a lock screw to prevent loosing and coming off when applying the extra force greater than that done sanding (and then you are taking some risk of unscrewing your work). It does allow you to hold the cutting tool handle on the normal side of the lathe and close to your body rather than reach over the ways.

[Dale Gillaspy]

I fully agree with the people above that have mentioned the lock screw. It is a must if you are reverse turning. J. Paul Fennell is a member of our club and has given several demonstrations on reverse hollowing. It really makes the ergonomics much easier if you can get used to it.

[Scott Hackler]

I have turned in reverse a few times. The set screw WAS locked down on the chuck for cutting in the underside of a lip on a bowl, or two. It worked great for me, but I don't like having to loosen a set screw to remove the chuck(s), so I stopped using them and stopped turning in reverse as well. It can be beneficial and handy, but the other 99% of the time it wasn't worth the hassle for me.

[Dan Masshardt]

Speaking of ergonomics maybe the next question will be turning from behind the lathe.

I have stood at the end since I only have a 21" lathe.

[David C. Roseman]

Has anyone had, or know of, a bad catch turning in reverse with the set screw tightened down? That's what I'd be most worried about, not that I ever have catches. :rolleyes: I'm wondering if the screw would be enough to prevent unspooling, since there is no spindle shoulder to take the torque. Seems to me there's a high risk of scoring or galling the spindle, spindle boss or threads in that event, even if the lathe is shut down quickly. Also, some chucks are not pre-tapped for set screws, as different lathes have different placements of the channel in the spindle, if there is a channel. And tightening the screws down on the spindle's threads is probably pretty risky.

David

[Jim Burr]

For practice Dave, grab some spindles and turn with either hand. Turning knows no left or right hand so training yourself over time to work with both hands only benefits you. I'm 100% ambidextrous and trust me it is a curse...there is no other excuse!!! My wife has to tell me what hand to use for my fork at a restaurant so through necessity, both hands get equal use. I had a tablesaw accident many years ago...the surgeon ask me "What hand do you use on a regular basis?" I said "Both"...my wife said "Really...he does...100%...he'll answer the same way every time" Point being...turning uses both hands in equal demands. Train now!

[Dennis Ford]

It seems easier to just stand on the other side for hollowing. I do understand the benefit of reverse for sanding.

[Thomas Canfield]

It seems easier to just stand on the other side for hollowing.

Not when you have a 800# lathe parallel to wall with less than 2' clearance.

[Russell Neyman]

When doing reverse turning it doesn't hurt to keep your tailstock close to the piece to keep it from flying off and smashing something. In fact, when I use the morse taper-mounted Beal polishing system (it tends to come loose, too) I move the tailstock within an inch of the bolt end for safety.

[John Keeton]

...when I use the morse taper-mounted Beal polishing system (it tends to come loose, too) I move the tailstock within an inch of the bolt end for safety.Russell, after several times of aggravation with this issue, I finally just bought a piece of all thread, a fender washer and wing nut to use as a draw bar. Quick to install and eliminates the problem.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

It seems easier to just stand on the other side for hollowing. I do understand the benefit of reverse for sanding.

If you're standing on the other side while hollowing in forward, isn't it the same as hollowing in reverse while standing with the lathe on your right...

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Dave has a bad back. I happened to call there one day when it was hurting so much he was not able to work. I suspect the reverse hollowing is all about ergonomics for Dave and other back sufferers like him. Many wood turners automatically tighten the set screws on their chucks for safety reasons. It's not a bad habit.
faust

[Bill Hensley]

Back on point, the one time I turn in reverse is to make finishing cuts on platter bottoms or to get a truly flat surface. This is a light push cut and the results will need minimal sanding.