Waxing Bowls - Types and method?

[alex grams]

I have a few bowls finished I want to wax up. I tried beeswax on one bowl, but it started building up too much and got clumpy and sticky. I basically just held the block up to the bowl on the lathe and turned the bowl and let it work its way on.

Is there something I am missing? What type of wax do you guys prefer, and what is your best method for applying?

Thanks in advance.

[Scott Hackler]

I only use REN wax now. It's not cheap, but it does not show fingerprints, it's easy to apply and completely clear. I have a small patch of soft paper towel that I leave in the can all the time. I apply the wax all over the piece after I get done buffing the finish, let sit for a minute or so and us a terry cloth towel or an old t-shirt and hand buff the dull overcoat off. This leaves a completely transperant wax film. Only downside (besides the price of $26 a can is the smell, but that evenatually goes away). I have been using the same can for almost 3 years and have 1/2 of it left.

If I was doing utilitarian I would probably buff carnuba or bees wax. I believe you can "thin" bees wax to a light paste, but a can't remember what solvent is used.

[Adam Blanton]

Try mixing the wax with some jojoba oil in a double boiler type setup, then apply with a paper towel. Brings the finish to a nice shine, but not overly shiny.

[alex grams]

I have ren wax. I was looking to wax a bowl for salad/fruit/whatnot. I will give that a go. The beeswax I had to remove with some mineral spirits.

[Thom Sturgill]

I think the key to using beeswax directly on the turning is to friction it back off. Richard Raffan uses a cloth which is not recommended as it could wrap around a finger and pull it off. I once asked the forum "which paper towel" and the response seamed to be to use smooth, soft towels with no printing such as Viva or shop towels. Some cheap towels come apart and leave fibers embedded in the finish.

Like Scott, I use Ren wax and buff it off. I generally apply it with the tip of a finger. Sometimes I buff by hand, some times with a dedicated soft wheel at low speed. I have an arbor on the lathe and set the speed at 500 rpm or less.

[John Keeton]

Sean Hughto (creeker, but I haven't seen him post in the Turners forum in a while) makes some beautiful functional bowls, and uses the following:

"I use the walnut oil from Lee Valley first. I then just use a bar of beeswax (carnauba would likely be fine too) and push it against the surface while the bowl spins. Then a paper towel held to that will cause enough friction to melt and spread the wax. If the surface has drunk the initial oil, I might sometimes put a bit more on after the wax. My favorite renewer is Clapham's:

http://www.amazon.com/Claphams-Beesw...1956032&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/Claphams-Beeswax-870-3008-Finish-8-Ounces/dp/B0012XP7LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1301956032&sr=8-1)

I get my beeswax at the farmers market honey purveyor or order it from honey farms online. Cheaper by far than places like Woodcraft, that want $12 for a small bar or some such."

[Pat Scott]

Alex are you using something more than just wax for a finish on your salad/fruit/whatnot bowls? Wax alone does not provide any protection, it just adds a little sheen and makes the piece feel smooth. It doesn't matter if you heat or melt the wax first, it's still not a durable finish. Using wax as a final step on top of another finish is OK, but in my opinion it's a wasted step for utility bowls (ie: salad bowls) since these type of bowls will be washed after use and the wax is washed off. Wax may be more appropriate when used on a fruit bowl that isn't washed.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use Mahoney's or Drs Workshop walnut oil on my utility bowls and once dry I do like Richard Raffan does. I use the stick of beeswax and apply it to the piece running at a pretty good rate. I will then use a paper towel to melt and burnish it into the wood with the speed at 1000 or so rpm.

[Reed Gray]

I have been using the Doctor's Woodshop oils more and more. His 'microaggregated' carnuba wax seems to melt/flow in better than any other wax I have tried, and with less effort and heat/friction needed. The carnuba is a far harder wax than the bees wax. All oils and waxes will wash and wear away eventually.

robo hippy

[Prashun Patel]

If you want a soft finish, then beewax is fine, but dont try to build it up. You have to buff it off.

If you want a shinier, stiffer feel then try a paraffin/carnauba based wax. Again, the key is to let the solvent evaporate then to buff it off vigorously. This burnishes the microthin layer and provides the sheen.

Failure to buff off any kind of wax finish leaves surfaces feeling like a crayon.

[Reed Gray]

Prashun, you really should try the Doctor's finishes. I can't explain why it works better, but it doesn't require solvents or heavy duty buffing.

robo hippy