Drilling holes for a workbench?

[Mike Holbrook]

I have been fighting a skin issue with my hands that has kept me from getting started on my work bench for 4-6 months. I am getting tooled up, trying to not stress my hands too much, which is a real pain for a guy who wants to use "hand" tools.

I have braces & some older auger bits. I also have a drill press. I am trying to figure out whether to try to drill all the: dog, holdfast, planing stop, mortise waste removal holes...with a brace & bit or just do it with the drill press? I have a set of cheap, forstner bits that is missing pieces and the remaining bits are very dull.

I am trying to decide whether to update my drill press or brace bits or both?

[Bob Glenn]

My experience with forstner bits is that they must be withdrawn and cleared frequently. I drilled my hold fast and planing stop holes with a 3/4 inch auger and brace. It took less effort and time than I was expecting. Have at it. Good luck.

[David Weaver]

What kind of wood are you using and what brace bits? If you're using a medium hardwood or hardwood, you'll probably find the jennings pattern bits to work best. Hopefully, the quartersawn edge (tightly alternating early and latewood) isn't on the face of the bench top if you are going to work into something hard, as brace bits sometimes won't get a good lead screw bite in quartersawn wood that is hard.

Another option for you, if you have a plunge router, is to make a long wooden batten and move along it and plunge the holes, or at least start them that way and then finish with something as simple as a common (spade) bit. I'd hate to have to try to get a bench top on a drill press or rig up something to hold it around the drill press.

[Tom Vanzant]

What David said but follow the plunge with a spade.

[David Weaver]

Thanks for the correct term, I couldn't think of it and could only remember the name for the chairmaker's bits.

[Lloyd Robins]

I am a little embarrassed to admit it, but I used a Bosch drill and a General drill guide to make the holes in my bench. I was afraid that I would lose square with a brace. The combination worked great. As I remember I started with a forstner bit to get the nice clean entry hole and then switched bits (spade bit ?) to finish the hole. You do have to watch and drill back from the bottom when the point emerges to avoid tear-out. Just my .02 worth and not really completely neanderthal, but it worked.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Another option for you, if you have a plunge router, is to make a long wooden batten and move along it and plunge the holes, or at least start them that way and then finish with something as simple as a common (spade) bit.

MLCS make just the router bit (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_solid.html#spiral_hss_anchor)for this job. It's only $15.

Follow up with this countersink (http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=41012&cat=3,41306,41328) from Lee Valley.

[Adam Cruea]

I used an electric drill with a 3/4" HSS bit from LV. I had to switch from my battery-powered DeWalt to my DeWalt hammer drill after about 4 rows and 4 drained batteries.

I had a piece of hickory about 48" long that I drilled holes into every 4", then I clamped that on my bench and used it for a template. Sure, some of the holes aren't straight down (my might be off 1 or 2 degrees), but meh. . .they're just used for dogs to hold boards in place while planing. They work well enough for me.

[Mike Holbrook]

Thanks for all the prompt responses guys. I have 6 -8/4 boards, 9-10 wide, German Kiln dried Beech, finished on one edge and both faces. It is hard to even find the grain in the wood, not sure if that will hurt or help? I plan to rip the boards on my band saw to 3-4" strips for glue up. I have a Steel City planer which I plan to use to get sides even after glue up, at least until the pieces get wider than the planer. I was planing on a split top but lately I started thinking about making two tool trays under the top and just doing a 24" wide solid top.

David are you thinking about a spoon bit? LV sells spoon bits but they do not carry 3/4", for the dog holes. I added one of the countersinks Hilton mentions to my cart at LV, nice! A countersink to end all countersinks, just what I have been looking for.

I bought used Jennings auger bits. They turned out not to be in as good a shape as I might have hoped. I am thinking about buying a few replacement bits from TFWW, auction prices for Jennings bit sets get quite high. I have a set of Irwin bits, also used, but in much better condition than the Jennings.

I have a full size Hitachi Drill Press, Festool router, Festool fences. I think the router would be my last choice of methods and the brace & bit my first choice if I think I can make it work.

[Bill Haumann]

I bored holes for my bench with a brace with a big sweep, made a considerable difference over smaller sweep braces.
I also didn't drill a lot of holes to start, and kept the brace and bit nearby and ready and added them as needed.
I was happy with how that worked out, especially for holdfast holes - I would have been wrong about the best placement for the holdfast holes if I had put them where I thought before using the bench.

[Mike Holbrook]

Good point Bill. I have a Stanley 813G, 12" brace, never seemed to win a bid on any of those 14" monsters. I like the less is more idea too.

I will be using a Veritas Quick-Release Sliding Tail Vise. This vise is made to work with dog holes not only on the top of the bench but also on the sides. One of the challenges I am facing is the need for 2-3 times as many dog holes. Bob Lang's 20th Century Bench design uses two sets of stretchers instead of one. One set of stretchers is located about 6" from the top of the bench. The other set of stretchers is located at the normal position at the base of the bench frame. Bob's design uses dog holes in the stretchers for securing work to the sides of the bench, instead of other options like a sliding dead man.

The dog holes is one of the issues I am wrestling with, turns out the additional functionality also creates some challenges.

[Jim Matthews]

Man, if your hands hurt you get a Mulligan to use power tools.

Save the brace and bits for making furniture - this is a repetitive task.
(There's a reason tedious, dull processes are referred to as boring.)

It would be a shame to tough it out long enough to get the holes drilled in your bench
only to be too sore to get to the fun part...

[Mike Holbrook]

Jim the hand issue has been strange, my skin was itching, forming large blisters and then peeling off at a rapid rate. I had issues on my arms & legs too but my hands were the worst. Current theory is an allergic reaction. My hands are about normal now but I have been easing back into any activities that might put my hands in contact with anything that could kick the allergic reaction into gear again. Apparently several of the medications and treatments made the allergic reaction worse and longer. Using my hands does not seem to make them worse, still I am being very nervous about what I eat and what my hands come in contact with.

[Bob Jones]

Milwaukee 1/2 corded drill. It's a handtool and is powerful enough to break your wrist. :)
most important - use a nice bit so you get a clean hole! No spade bit. I bought a nice owl name brand bit from traditional woodworker in TX. Worked great.

[Andrae Covington]

At first I did this:


I bored holes for my bench with a brace with a big sweep, made a considerable difference over smaller sweep braces...

I sometimes set up a couple squares to help me attempt to stay plumb. The larger sweeps are great for more power in larger holes, but do tend to add to the challenge of keeping the bit vertical. I have a couple wonky holes in my workbench that make me cringe...

Eventually I did this:


I am a little embarrassed to admit it, but I used a Bosch drill and a General drill guide to make the holes in my bench...

Unlike Lloyd, I didn't start with a forstner, I just used the spade bit all the way through. With the guide, it makes a pretty clean hole, considering it's just for holdfasts and benchdogs. Certainly cleaner than what I accomplished with the brace and bit, though even the off-plumb ones are quite functional.

I then used a Beall countersink that looks just like the LV one Hilton linked.

edit: to clarify, by clean hole I mean the side walls. Any tearout at the surface was taken care of later by the countersink.

[Jim Koepke]

If you do go the auger & brace route, you may want to pre-drill pilot holes. This will allow you to bore a bit from the bottom and then come in from the top to avoid any blow out when coming through.

A properly sharpened auger bit should make quick work of boring dog holes.

jtk

[Mike Holbrook]

Sounds like a great idea Jim. A drill press or electric drill and jig should insure straight pilot holes. I imagine an auger bit would be easier to keep on course with the pilot holes.

I believe I remember reading about sharpening auger bits, may have to search for that info. to refresh my memory.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Mike, Lee Valley has an auger bit file on special until August 19 and a corresponding video on their YouTube channel.

[Mike Holbrook]

Thanks again Hilton, can I just send you the complete list of my issues ;-) I just put two of those files in my cart at LV, with the Countersink. Great video too! Check out the post I am about to make about lighting, maybe you have the answer for that too. Yes. LV has a couple solutions, just wondering how to attach them to a bench....

[Matthew Hills]

Plunge router with 3/4" spiral up-cut bit. mount it on something that you can move along and clamp down.. Indexing is even better for uniform spacing of holes.

My plunge wasn't deep enough to finish the job, and I used a brace and 3/4" bit to go the rest of the way through. (you may want to come in from the bottom one the bit's tip pokes through, just to keep a neater hole)

I need to add some more holes for planing stops, myself.

Matt

[Hilton Ralphs]

Check out the post I am about to make about lighting, maybe you have the answer for that too.
:) Ok only saw this request after I read the other one.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

If you do go the auger & brace route, you may want to pre-drill pilot holes. This will allow you to bore a bit from the bottom and then come in from the top to avoid any blow out when coming through.

A properly sharpened auger bit should make quick work of boring dog holes.

jtk

A forum member mentioned this to me a while back in a question I had about drilling holes with auger bits - At times it's very helpful. Besides letting you start from both sides easily, in tougher woods, it really helps ease the job - that lead screw has got to force it's way in a good deal before the cutters start doing their job, and with larger bits in something hard like the maple I was working, this can be tough. Drilling a pilot hole small enough plenty of the threads on the lead screw can bite and pull in, but small enough you're trying to push less wood away makes the turning easier with larger bits, and also helps prevent splitting if you're drilling a hole close to an edge. (Which was why it was recommended to me)

[Zach Dillinger]

I bored all of mine with a brace and auger, but it is one of the few times I regretted not using a power tool. Man, that was tough work. I wouldn't want to do it again.

[Jim Koepke]

Here is an old post of mine on auger bits with information on sharpening:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?131238-A-Bit-About-Augers

The LV video includes using an E-Z Lap. I mostly use a small oil stone and didn't mention it in my post.

jtk

[Augusto Orosco]

Mike, this might be the next product to experience the "Schwarz" effect, but one have to admit they seem to bore very quickly. I considered getting a 3/4" for my workbench in progress, but I already have a set of Irwins that perform well and I don't mind the exercise. But in your case, since your hands are hurting, these might be a good option for you:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/workbenches/schwarz-workbenches/woodowl-bits-eat-oak-for-lunch

they are available here http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Nail-Chipper-Tri-Cut-Auger-Bits-by-Wood-Owl/products/681/

Notice that they have a 7/16" hex shank, so your brace (if you go that route) must be able to accommodate them. I would imagine the more modern braces with 3-jaw chucks would do a better job than the traditional alligator ones.

P.S. My interpretation of the TOS indicate that these links are allowed; I hope I am correct.

[Jim Koepke]

Mike, this might be the next product to experience the "Schwarz" effect, but one have to admit they seem to bore very quickly. I considered getting a 3/4" for my workbench in progress, but I already have a set of Irwins that perform well and I don't mind the exercise. But in your case, since your hands are hurting, these might be a good option for you:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/workbenches/schwarz-workbenches/woodowl-bits-eat-oak-for-lunch

they are available here http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Nail-Chipper-Tri-Cut-Auger-Bits-by-Wood-Owl/products/681/

Notice that they have a 7/16" hex shank, so your brace (if you go that route) must be able to accommodate them. I would imagine the more modern braces with 3-jaw chucks would do a better job than the traditional alligator ones.

P.S. My interpretation of the TOS indicate that these links are allowed; I hope I am correct.

Do pay attention to the fact that these augers do not cut the rim before boring. They may have a tendency to chip out at the beginning of the hole.

There is some shown in the Schwarz video.

jtk

[Augusto Orosco]

Do pay attention to the fact that these augers do not cut the rim before boring. They may have a tendency to chip out at the beginning of the hole.

There is some shown in the Schwarz video.

jtk

You are right; I noticed that, too, Jim! I forgot to mention that there is also a "ultra smooth" version, which comes with spurs.

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/3_4-Ultra-Smooth-Tri-Spur-Auger-7-1_2-Long-by-WoodOwl/productinfo/97-09/

[Mike Holbrook]

Great info guys. So if I drill small pilot holes all the way through first, then use an auger bit or the "ultra smooth" version of the Owl bit to make the first 1/4-1/2" of the hole, on either side of the top, the rest should be easy? I do have an electric hand drill and a Festool T15, battery operated drill too.

[Augusto Orosco]

Great info guys. So if I drill small pilot holes all the way through first, then use an auger bit or the "ultra smooth" version of the Owl bit to make the first 1/4-1/2" of the hole, on either side of the top, the rest should be easy? I do have an electric hand drill and a Festool T15, battery operated drill too.

Personally, I would just clamp a sacrificial backing strip and go to town. This way you don't need to drill pilot holes or flip the top to drill on the opposite side. Just make sure the backing is securely clapmed and flush to the underside, so it works as intended and you don't get exiting tearout.

[Mike Holbrook]

Another great suggestion Augusto, I think I will send you a complete list of my "issues" as well.

Holes in the bench I am planing are going to be a challenge. I have Benchcrafted hardware for a leg vise on the left front of my bench. I have a Veritas Quick-Release Sliding Tail Vise for the right front of my bench. The QR tail vise needs holes on the side of the bench. The instructions suggest an apron under the bench top. The side dog holes can then be placed in the apron instead of the side of the top, leaving the top front edge of the bench for dog holes to serve the top of the QR tail vise.

Aprons are not popular these days, although an apron between the front legs only, level with the legs, may be a possibility. An apron of this type might serve a similar function to the second set of stretchers Bob Lang uses on his 21st Century Workbench for clamping to the front of his bench. Although I may not like the fact that this "apron" would complicate positioning and drilling the dog holes on the top of the bench it might be preferable to drilling both top and side dog holes in the front edge.

I am afraid to drill too many holes in the front edge of the bench as the QR Tail vise will be clamping work against that edge. It did occur to me that I might use the entire front right leg of the bench, in conjunction with the right front edge of the top, as the opposing jaw for the QR tail vise. Then I wonder if the second apron/stretcher would reinforce the right front leg enough to make it a reliable clamping surface? Bench design can be a real head scratcher!

[Curt Putnam]

The QR tail vise needs holes on the side of the bench.

NEEDS​ or can use. Big difference.

[Ruperto Mendiones]

I clamped my bench top drill press on a wheeled hydraulic table, put the benchtop on sawhorses and used a standard twist drill bit.

Supporting the bench top at drill press table height and moving the press down the line of holes would accomplish the same thing. Effective if not neander...

Save your hands for furniture.

[Mike Holbrook]

Ruperto that might just work even though I have a floor drill press. I am putting together an Adjust-A-Bench on casters that I plan to make my main bench top on. I could move the normal drill press table out of the way and slide the top back and forth under the drill press via the Adjust-A-Bench.

Curt it seems to me I would defeat the main design feature of the QR tail vise if I did not take advantage of the front side clamping ability.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Ruperto's comments remind me of this recent post on the Benchcrafted blog:

http://benchcrafted.blogspot.com/2013/08/drilling-like-pansy.html

Certainly, if you've got the hardware to do it, that's how I'd go!

[Curt Putnam]

Have you considered a removable stretcher for the side holes?