Router lift suggestions

[Maurice Hood]

I have a Kreg PRS-2000 router table I recently purchased and was looking for opinions concerning an inexpensive lift. I was considering the Bosch 1617EVSTB router with above table lift adjustment. I’m just starting to get into some little weekend type woodworking projects and I would like to get something that would be convenient without breaking the bank. Any and all comments and opinions would be appreciated. Thanks http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-2-25-Electronic-Router-Table/dp/B0070308CA/ref=sr_1_64?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1376097444&sr=1-64&keywords=router+lift#productDetails

[Bill Huber]

Welcome to the Creek,,,,

The problem is you still have to reach under the table to latch and unlatch the router. You will find that you get it set just the way you want it and then latch it and it will change just a little.

You can get a lift like the Jessem Rout-R-Lift II for $190 and they work really nice. Then go looking for a used router, the 1617 EVS is a good little router, I have 2 of them and they work very well.

[Ellen Benkin]

I have the Rockler lift which is manufactured by someone else. It is not fancy but it is easy to install and works perfectly for my hobbyist projects.

[Bill Huber]

Rockler has the FX which will fit the Bosch 1617 router on sale right now for $179, it is made my Jessem.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21380&site=ROCKLER

[Duane Meadows]

Rockler has the FX which will fit the Bosch 1617 router on sale right now for $179, it is made my Jessem.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21380&site=ROCKLER

Unfortunately Rockler makes(or has them made) those things 8.25 x 11.75 instead of 9.25 x 11.75. You would have to fill in the hole a bit.

[glenn bradley]

As Duane says; pre-made router tables are made to fit certain plates/lifts. I believe the Kreg fits the Woodpecker/Incra/Kreg format. I have modified tables to take larger plates (its easy to make a hole bigger) but, going the other way could be a bit of a kluge.

[Maurice Hood]

I appreciate all the information. It appears that the JessEmRouter lift plate should fit my Kreg table. So that is a definite possibility.Are there any known problems with using this lift with my little Kreg table?What routers will fit in the JessEm lift? Thanks.

[Paul Wunder]

Jessem makes several lifts and each one is made for certain types of routers. Best to check with Jessem directly either through their website or customer support.

[Rick Fisher]

I have 2 x Jessem lifts.. One for large routers and one for small. They aren't as fancy as other lifts but wow are they nice to use.. Accurate, simple.. I was using one the other day and thinking that all the micro adjustments and cast iron in the world isn't really the point.. The Jessem lifts are very well built and easy to set up ..

[Bill Huber]

I appreciate all the information. It appears that the JessEmRouter lift plate should fit my Kreg table. So that is a definite possibility.Are there any known problems with using this lift with my little Kreg table?What routers will fit in the JessEm lift? Thanks.


From the Rockler site.
The Router Lift FX Plus accepts the following routers: Porter-Cable 690/890 series, Bosch 1617-16-18, DeWalt* 610, 616, 618.

[Rick Potter]

I have two tables with Jessem and Woodpecker lifts, and they both work great. Now I also have a knock down table that I put a Milwaukee plunge router in. This router even has a handle to use to raise it when it is put in a table. While it is not as nifty as the expensive lifts, I think you will find it works better than you would expect for an inexpensive setup. I am sure there are other brands that operate the same way, if you are trying to keep the cost down.

Rick Potter

[Tim Janssen]

Have you considered using a Triton router. I have the Triton 2.25hp router mounted in my Kreg routertable. It allows above the table bit change and height adjustment? No lift required!

Tim

[Tom Giacomo]

I have a Milwaukee that has above table height adjustment., 3 1/4hp.

[Maurice Hood]

Thanks for all the useful information. I think I may go withthe Jessem lift and maybe a PC 690 router. I believe they will both serve my needs verywell.

[Guy Belleman]

+1 for the Triton router. Works well in my table and is smoother than any other of the routers mentioned.

[Kevin Womer]

Have you considered using a Triton router. I have the Triton 2.25hp router mounted in my Kreg routertable. It allows above the table bit change and height adjustment? No lift required!

Tim

I have the triton 2.25 on a table. I have never owned a lift but this machine has some nice features, above the table fine adjustment, one wrench bit changes etc. everything a lift offers that I understand. I have made some raised panels and cope and stick frames on it so the power is adequate, but if I were buying again for the table I would get the 3 hp motor if you never plan to remove it from the table. I would definitely buy the triton again but with a bigger motor.

[Curt Harms]

I have a Kreg PRS-2000 router table I recently purchased and was looking for opinions concerning an inexpensive lift. I was considering the Bosch 1617EVSTB router with above table lift adjustment. I’m just starting to get into some little weekend type woodworking projects and I would like to get something that would be convenient without breaking the bank. Any and all comments and opinions would be appreciated. Thanks http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-2-25-Electronic-Router-Table/dp/B0070308CA/ref=sr_1_64?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1376097444&sr=1-64&keywords=router+lift#productDetails

If not breaking the bank is a consideration, I have two thoughts. I have a Freud FT2000E. I started out really cheap. I removed the knob from the depth stop adjustment and removed the nuts. I then took an 1 1/4" dowel and drilled a hole lengthwise slightly larger diameter and deeper than the depth adjustment rod. Bought a hex nut that would work on rod and chiseled out a recess on the end of the dowel. Epoxied the nut in place and added a crank mechanism on the other end. I removed the plunge springs at the same time which may have been a mistake. It worked fine, turn the crank and the router went up & down. The flaw was as Bill mentioned above, I had to lock the plunge lock or the crank would turn and lower from vibration. Locking the plunge lock would tilt the router slightly. I then bought a router raizer and replaced the plunge springs as recommended. That's what I'm using today. Between the springs & resistance built into the router raizer I don't need the plunge lock.

http://www.routertechnologies.com/routerraizer.htm

There was an article about somebody building their own version of the router raizer, it might be in the articles section of wood central. Cost 'em less than $5. The trick would be to have some turning resistance but not too much.