Jointer / planer combo machines larger than 12"?

[David Kuzdrall]

I am in the process of trying to optimize my garage workshop and have begun to consider going with a jointer planer combo machine rather than my current setup of separate machines.

it seems that most of these machines are 12" or much much larger. I currently have an 8" jointer and a 13" lunchbox planer. Moving to a 12" combo machine will be a huge improvement on jointing but a step down on planing.

are there any manufactures that make combo machines in the 15" range which would be the ideal size?

thx

[David Kumm]

There are 16" machines. Felder, Minimax. The 16" are usually built more heavily than the 12" machines and considered a step up in more than just size. Minimax used to make a 14" too. Dave

[Ralph Butts]

I am in the process of trying to optimize my garage workshop and have begun to consider going with a jointer planer combo machine rather than my current setup of separate machines.

it seems that most of these machines are 12" or much much larger. I currently have an 8" jointer and a 13" lunchbox planer. Moving to a 12" combo machine will be a huge improvement on jointing but a step down on planing.

are there any manufactures that make combo machines in the 15" range which would be the ideal size?

thx

David I went through a similar decision process last year. I would look at both Hammer and Minimax. They both offer a very nice 16" Jointer/Planer option. IMHO you could not go wrong with either manufacturer.

[Jim Matthews]

I just had this discussion with a maker that concentrates on exterior doors in the North Carolina mountains.

They have a Minimax SC35 (if I remember correctly) that is set up to joint, only.
The amount of time it took them to properly reset the machine as a jointer after planing was costing them profit.

They dedicated the Minimax to jointing, only and now use a large 20" planer for the other milling step.

I would be surprised, in a small shop, to see anything wider than 9" being jointed.

Unless you've laid in a stock of something in the rough, it may be more cost effective to have your lumber yard skip plane your lumber s2s.
That way, they pay to keep the knives sharp, and you get more floor space.

[Mike Wilkins]

There are several manufacturers of machines over 12" planing/jointing width: Felder, Laguna, MiniMax, Baleigh, Hammer. Changeover does not affect jointer use after a changeover from planing, other than resetting the fence. I have an el-cheaop Chinese made 12" J/P machine and have never had to reset the jointer function, other than making sure the fence is at 90deg. The biggest hiccup is cranking the planer table up/down to move the dust chute over to another function. Some of the more high-end machines have power planer table function-just push a button and change the height of the table. Nice but be prepared to dig into the wallet. Now if I can just get the Powerball folks to cooperate, a 16" machine is next on my dream list of machines to get.

[John TenEyck]

If you are a hobbiest woodworker I don't think going from a 13" planer to 12" is much of a penalty compared to the benefit of a 12" jointer over an 8" one. The big J/P's sure are nice, but they are quite a bit larger in foot print compared to a 12" combo, and the price is more than double. 'Twer me, I'd get a 12" J/P and a 18x36" drum sander or a 24" double drum sander instead. That would give you more benefit for the same money, IMO.

John

[Curt Harms]

I agree with John. Think about how many times you've planed more than 12" but less than 13". A 3 h.p. induction motor is likely to outlive benchtop planer motors and the rest of the machine seems more built to last. I have a Jet JJP-12 and see no issues when switching between jointer & planer. I can sure see a production facility not wanting to mess with it though.

[David Kuzdrall]

Thanks for all the replies, here are a few thoughts based on this thread and some additional research...

I was able to google most of the brands mentioned to find larger JP machines and boy was there a price difference between 12" and anything larger! There is even quite a spread on the 12" machines between brands, most notability the Baleigh 12" JP with spiral head for well under $2k.

although not too often, I do occasionally run into lumber wider than 13". I buy most of my lumber rough, from mills and had access to wide widths, small slabs and proper slabs. I will admit that a proper slab will not fit on a 16" machine either but 12" - 15" widths are something that I have either had to cut in the shop or pass on at the mill.

I like the suggestion of a 12" jointer, my lunchbox planer (or a cragslist deal on a 15" - 16") and a wide belt sander...with the price of the Baleigh JP, it may be worth considering that as just a 12" jointer then piece together the rest as used deals present themselves.

[glenn bradley]

They have a Minimax SC35 (if I remember correctly) that is set up to joint, only. The amount of time it took them to properly reset the machine as a jointer after planing was costing them profit.


Changeover does not affect jointer use after a changeover from planing, other than resetting the fence.

The contradiction here stems from some makes and models having the issue and some not. The problem of alignment following changeover or the lack thereof has been reported by owners and periodical reviews. Some problems may be design or quality, some may be assembly or maintenance. Just do your research and stick with the trouble free versions and all should go well.

I am fortunate to have been able to arrange things so that I can have a jointer and a planer. Even though I am pretty decent and planning my work flow it seems there is always one or two little things that need to be done on one machine or the other and often both. The changeover does look real quick and easy for many of the combo machines but, many of us have seen a Shop Smith demo too ;-)

The concept is solid and each of us has give and take in the shop and choose how to deal with it. For years I had a flip top stand that held a finish planer and a sander. I often needed the tool that was not on top (thanks Murphy) but, changeover was reasonably easy and I saved 4 square feet of floor space and let me keep my separate jointer and planer which works well for me. YMMV.

In contrast I currently have a sander that has a massive footprint for its purpose. My solution for this will be to build a drawer'd rolling cabinet under it to replace the storage cabinet that had to go in order to make room for it. The wheels will allow me to roll it a foot or two out of its storage place for use and then return it with reasonable time and effort involved.

Good luck with your search and let us know what you decided. I learn a little bit of something reading about each of our trials and solutions in the never-ending quest for space and organization.

[Erik Loza]

Any modern, well made jointer/planer, regardless of size, should not put itself out of alignment simply by flipping the tables up and down. You would have to be some sort of gorilla to do that to it. At least to any jointer/planer I have personally seen or worked with. By and large, it's older machines that have been around a while or were purchased on the used market that may need hinges or that type of thing replaced. Also, the fences on earlier machines tended to be the real Achilles Heel. Contemporary designs tend to be much better designed.

The biggest differences between any of them and why they cost what they cost will boil down to country of manufacture (Wester Europe versus Taiwan/China) and then ergonomics (how easy the fences are to adjust, time it takes/how much re-arranging of parts you need to do in order to accomplish the change-over, etc.)

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Jim Matthews]

To clarify, the users of the SC35 employ it on a daily basis and joint stout timbers, some as long as 12 feet.
(They make really BIG doors.)

Their decision to add a dedicated planer came from a space limitation, where the jointer tables could not clear a structural beam in the shop.
As a concession to comfort, their planer is also raised on a platform so they can pass similarly large stock more comfortably.

They've been through 4 sets of knives in the Jointer, and they didn't buy it new. It's a workhorse.

My point is that the cost of a dedicated pair of machines, which can be quite compact isn't a great deal more than a well-made "convertible".

[Chris Fournier]

Ha! There is no step down with regards to your tentative plan. A 13" lunch box can't touch a well made 12" combo when it comes to planing. A 13" lunch box would be hard pressed to actually take a clean, meaningful 13" pass on anything other than soap! The combo machine certainly will. I moved from separate machines to a 12" MM years ago and I almost wept when I first ran the combo. Then I put wood through it!

I now have a 16" combo from MM and it is a real treat. I have carefully set up both of these machines and they have NEVER gone out of alignment. The 16" jointer tables are spring assisted and I couldn't slam down the tables if I tried. The 12" tables were not assisted to my recollection and I set them carefully of course.

The bonus is a slot mortiser attachment!

A high quality European combo machine will do fine work and take up less space in your shop. I think that you'd enjoy using and owning one!

[mreza Salav]

I have a 14" MM J/P (coming from a 6" Jointer and a 12.5" lunchbox planer). I disagree with Chris about lunch box planer being able to give a good finish; I had planed all sorts of wood as wide as 12" and they typically do give very smooth surface (if blades are sharp), as good (or better) as floor standing machines. The difference is the level of noise (they are screaming loud) and their parts wear out very quickly.
My combo has been a joy to use. Right now am in the middle of a project and am joining/planing boards as long as 9' and as wide as 13".

[Scott T Smith]

David, I have a 16" combo unit that I am considering replacing with a pair of standalone units. It's a Grizzly, made by Sheppach in Germany, and it is in as-new condition. Drop me a line if you're interested.

[Jim Becker]

I would be surprised, in a small shop, to see anything wider than 9" being jointed.

True...if you're talking about edges. But I never joint edges on my J/P. I face joint wide boards before planing to thickness and at times, I use every bit of the 13.6x" (350mm) of width I have on my particular MiniMax J/P.

[Curt Harms]

The other variable that I think no one has mentioned is jointer table length. 12" jointers I think have longer infeed and outfeed tables than 12+" combo machines. If you work with longer material, that may matter. My Jet has 55" total jointer tables. I find the 1.5 X rule works well for me, you can joint stock 1.5 times the length of the beds. 55 X 1.5=82.5" or just under 7'. That's about the max. length of stock I feel comfortable with, at least without additional support. I try to cut to rough length before face jointing so don't find 7' a limitation, YMMV.