Handsaw handle restoration

[Max Withers]

There is a lot of great information here and elsewhere on the internet about restoring old saws, but I can't find much about my specific questions. I just got a Disston and son (one son) no. 4 backsaw, 1871-76. It's in great shape, but the (applewood) handle is a little bit loose, and it feels dry.

1. How careful do I have to be tightening the split nuts? Should I buy a driver from LN/Gramercy, to file something suitable from a regular screwdriver.

2. Should I take the handle off and soak it in linseed oil? Or is there something better?

This is very much going to be a user, but I don't want to destroy this amazing tool that's (I just calculated) older than my great grandfather.

[lowell holmes]

Never let the opportunity to buy a new tool pass. By all means, buy the split nut driver. :)

I would take it slow on the handle. I have scraped old handles and then sanded with fine sand paper. I had to bleach one with wood bleach to get the old water stains out. I then put a stain on it to even the color out and finished it with Deft Danish Oil.

I'm not stating what I did is the way to go, but it worked for me.

I'm sure others will weigh in on the subject.

[David Weaver]

I would do very little to that handle other than see if I could tighten the split nuts (carefully, or you can chew up the slots - try to loosen them first a little bit to make sure they're free, and then tighten them)

[John Walkowiak]

A bit of what I have learned about a loose handle with split nuts. The nuts may not be loose. The wiggle may be from worn screw shafts, which become worn from the blade moving a bit and chewing into the shafts. The saw plate is much harder than the brass , and the shafts are of a very small diameter. All split nut slots are not the same diameter. A driver can be easily made from a spade bit - grind to fit and use with a brace or make a handle. When tightening the screws, use a clamp of some kind to squeeze the cheek tight, then tighten. Don't try to pull it tight by just tightening the nut, it is apt to snap off. If you take the handle off, make note of the placement and direction of of the nuts, so they fit when you put it back together. They are not always the exact same size. Good luck.

[Kim Malmberg]

If you decide to remove the handle, just remember that the bolts are flush or even below the surface of the handle, which means that the surface wood is likely overlapping the surface of the bolts. So when you try to remove them you really have to be cautious about putting too much pressure as it might result in wood splinters breaking off the surface of the handle. I would start by cleaning the perimeters of the bolts. Just trace around them carefully with something like a needle or anything really thin but sufficiently strong. Once the split nuts are removed you can wiggle the handle a bit and try to remove the bolts, using only gentle pressure.

[Jim Matthews]

I think disassembling this is a mistake.

Rather than taking it apart, lightly polish with a fine abrasive pad and a little wax.
Most waxes have a solvent in the mix and will lightly brighten the brass and wood.

If the handle is solid, and you don't need to get under it to repair the plate - the less molestation, the better.
DAMHIKT

[Andrew Kertesz]

I recently picked up a Millers Fall #74 miter box with the original saw. Long story short I started cleaning the handle with Citrus Cleaner from the big orange store.

[Jim Matthews]

Were the results favorable?

[Max Withers]

Yeah, I used the wrong word: I don't want to restore anything about this saw, except the edge of the teeth, I just want to preserve it for what dealers like to call honest use.

thanks to the advice above, I will definitely not try to take the handle off, but it just feels so dry under the finish/patina, I would really like it to soak up some oil or something. I usually use BLO for this kind of thing, but I've never dealt with such a nice/old tool before.

[Adam Maxwell]

it just feels so dry under the finish/patina, I would really like it to soak up some oil or something. I usually use BLO for this kind of thing, but I've never dealt with such a nice/old tool before.

BLO has its own set of problems. I've used it on common saw totes, but would hesitate on something as old as yours, unless it's checked. On something like that, I generally just use wax (Behlen's Blue Label), like Jim Matthews recommends above, with synthetic steel wool if it's really dirty. Lee Richmond at thebestthings.com has a good writeup on this minimal tool/antique cleaning. I've made the mistake of over cleaning a few tools, and regretted it; you can always clean/finish more later, if you want.

[Mike Holbrook]

I have used Watco Teak Oil on quite a few old handles. The Teak version of Watco is a little thinner than the others which helps it to penetrate deeper. Watco has seemed to help older wood that has started to look and feel like old drift wood. Not sure if I would try it in this case without seeing the wood in question. I think I would try any product on a small out of the way area, before submitting the whole handle to any restoration substance.

[Andrew Kertesz]

The citrus cleaner started to do a fine job without any damage to the original finish. I'm sure it will do a great job once I have more time. I'm a little compulsive and didn't let it soak in like it should.

[Paul Saffold]

Mark Harrell of Bad Axe Tool Works has several tutorials on saw care that are well worth looking at.
http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/unlocking-a-frozen-sawnut.html