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Daniel Rode
08-07-2013, 11:38 AM
As I've mentioned in other posts, I'm trying to learn to use hand tools more as a part of my woodworking. I have some decent chisels and Stanley "contractor" model #4 and block planes. I just spent some quality time flattening the soles and sharpening the blades. The block plane worked decent before and now seems better. The #4 while better, is still difficult to work with. Some of this may be due to to the quality of the tool but I suspect much is user error because I don't have a good feel for how to setup, adjust and use the tool yet.

Here's where I'm struggling.

1) How hard should it be to adjust the depth? Mine does not turn easily. It's tight and takes some effort to spin the knob. I assume the tension here is controlled by the cap screw. When I watch Paul Sellers make adjustments with a very similar #4, it seems to take less effort. How do I determine how tight to make the cap screw?

2) How do I adjust the frog? Mine as a screw in the back and two perpendicular to the sole (under the iron). I assume the rear screw is to move the frog back and forth expand or reduce the mouth opening and the 2 screws under the iron are to lock it all down afterward?

3) Lastly, why would I want the mouth larger or smaller? Is this something I'd set and leave it alone?

Thanks in advance,

--Dan

Adam Cruea
08-07-2013, 11:51 AM
1) In my opinion, you should be able to spin the adjuster with a couple of fingers. Yes, you are correct the cap screw plays into this. I generally tighten the cap screw down to where the bottom of the head hits the cap while the cap is opened/unlocked/untensioned (the thumb lever kicked up). Then I try and flip the lever down. If it's too tough to do with one hand, back it out a quarter turn and try again.

2) Assumption correct. Loosen the 2 screws holding the frog in, adjust with the back screws, tighten the screws in the frog

3) Supposedly to control the shaving thickness in conjunction with adjusting the cap iron. However, I find putting the cap iron closer to the edge of the blade to be a much more fruitful endeavor than adjusting the mouth size.

steven c newman
08-07-2013, 11:56 AM
Kind of hard to describe the feel of the cap's snap when locked down. Loosen the bolt about one full turn, and try that. You only need it tight enough that the iron won't move around while in use, just loose enough to allow any changes to be made as you plane.

Will some will want to close up the mouth as tight as they can ( reduces tear out on some woods) I usually try to keep the face of the frog lined up with that ramp looking area where the iron sits on the base's opening. Set the frog to this, sort of a "baseline" to start with. Any further back, and the iron is lifted off the face of the frog. Too far forward, and the edge of the iron is hanging in mid air.

Once the iron is good and sharpened up, and the back is flat and polished up, set the chip breaker as close to the edge of the iron as you can, just so a thin sliver is showing. Tighten the bolt between the two, install in the baselined frog, and set the depth so it just barely touches any wood. Try a few strokes, with the grain, adjust until you see a shaving you like268099and have a bit of fun.

Jim Koepke
08-07-2013, 3:15 PM
Here is a post of mine with information on setting up a bench plane:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148076-Getting-Started-With-Hand-Planes

Since posting this there has been better information on setting the cap iron/chip breaker closer to the edge for fine smoothing work.

It is in the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs section which can be found in the Neanderthal Announcements.

jtk

Daniel Rode
08-07-2013, 5:04 PM
Thank you all of the replies!

Jim - I've skimmed your post on setting up a bench plane it but I will go back and study it in more detail later. It's just packed with stuff I can use. Thank you!


Here is a post of mine with information on setting up a bench plane:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148076-Getting-Started-With-Hand-Planes

Since posting this there has been better information on setting the cap iron/chip breaker closer to the edge for fine smoothing work.

It is in the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs section which can be found in the Neanderthal Announcements.

jtk

Jim Matthews
08-07-2013, 6:14 PM
I oil my cap iron, and blade after use before storage.

I think a properly fit lever cap and set screw in combination with a layer of oil
make adjusting the depth of cut easy. I took Mr. Sellers class -
you should be able to turn the wheel with a single finger.

Bob Jones
08-07-2013, 10:53 PM
Daniel, there is tons of info online on using and tuning planes. If you prefer videos check out the Logan cabinet shoppe podcast - it's free. I also wrote a bit on my blog if you want to check it out. Have fun!

http://thechristiantoolcabinet.wordpress.com/2013/04/25/minimal-bench-plane-tuning/

Shawn Pixley
08-07-2013, 11:36 PM
I test the the tightness of the levercap retaining screw to be just tight enough that the blade won't shift side to side in use when snapped closed. For my good planes, this works well.

That said, I have been given a couple of plane shaped objects (1970's Craftsman & Miller Falls - both with plastic handles) that no matter what tension the lever cap screw is at, the blade adjustment knob is almost impossible to turn. Sometimes it is just the plane's design.