Efficient sanding - advice needed

[Bob Savage]

Hello,

I'm looking for input on sanding the outside edges of these parts I currently cut them out with a router, sand with a spindle sander and then struggle my way through using a RO sander around the edges to get them smooth enough to finish by hand. This isn't a big deal when doing a couple but I'm about to start cutting a lot more of them and need a more efficient solution in place of the RO sanding in order to get the roughness lines from the spindle sanding removed.

Any input on an efficient method?

Thanks in advance.

[joe milana]

Brush sander...

[Roy Harding]

Sanding Mop

[Bob Savage]

Thank you gents. Checking these out now.

Joe,

Have you used a mop for jobs like this and if so, which one(s)? I did a little reading this morning and found a some posts saying the brush won't take off enough material to get rid of the lines from the spindle sander.

[John Lanciani]

Are you using an oscillating spindle sander or just a drill press job? An OSS with a fine grit sleeve should just about give you a ready to finish surface with a little practice.

[Bob Savage]

Are you using an oscillating spindle sander or just a drill press job? An OSS with a fine grit sleeve should just about give you a ready to finish surface with a little practice.

I have the Ridgid OSS/belt sander. The finish is pretty rough so maybe my touch is too rough. I'm also buying 150 grit sleeves because I'm not sure what I've got, could be 100 (it's whatever came with the machine). If I can get close enough to hand sand and finish with the OSS that would be super.

[John Lanciani]

I use the same sander; with 180 or 220 grit sleeves and a VERY light touch you should be much happier with the results. The only issue you may run into is burning, hence the light touch. Also, use a crepe block to keep the sleeve clean. I also find that going against the rotation of the sleeve gives a much better finish than going with it.

[Prashun Patel]

The 150 sleeves aand a light touch will get you there. I believe the machine ships with 80 gt sleeves?

[Bob Savage]

Thanks for the info Prashun... 80, yikes. No wonder it's so rough. :)


I use the same sander; with 180 or 220 grit sleeves and a VERY light touch you should be much happier with the results. The only issue you may run into is burning, hence the light touch. Also, use a crepe block to keep the sleeve clean. I also find that going against the rotation of the sleeve gives a much better finish than going with it.

I haven't seen 180 or 220 sleeves but will look now. If you have a supplier I'd greatly appreciate a referral (don't think you can post a link here though).

[John Lanciani]

Supergrit has 220, look here; http://www.supergrit.com/OSSSandingDrumsandSleeves

[Bob Savage]

Supergrit has 220, look here; http://www.supergrit.com/OSSSandingDrumsandSleeves

Thanks for the link, John. I had already ordered 150 grit sleeves. Do you think those with a light touch will get them to a point where hand sanding with 180 to remove the deeper marks will do it? The price on the 150's is pretty good. I'm not at home but aren't the sleeves for the Ridgid 4"?

[Richard Coers]

No one is addressing the tight inside corners. No sanding drum or mop is going to get that tight corner. I've never found any mop or brush that would remove much for sanding scratches without rounding over the edges. Final sand yes, not for removing much. Plus the brush and mop will highlight any difference between the soft grain, and the hard grain. I'd say your current methods will give you the best finish. You might try a fine belt in a vertical 1" sander, then have finer lines to take out, but they would be cross grain, so not easy.

[Bob Savage]

No one is addressing the tight inside corners. No sanding drum or mop is going to get that tight corner. I've never found any mop or brush that would remove much for sanding scratches without rounding over the edges. Final sand yes, not for removing much. Plus the brush and mop will highlight any difference between the soft grain, and the hard grain. I'd say your current methods will give you the best finish. You might try a fine belt in a vertical 1" sander, then have finer lines to take out, but they would be cross grain, so not easy.

Thank you for the input Richard. I had the foresight to design the part for profiling with a 1/2" bit so I can get in the two tight corners with the 1/2" spindle sander. I'm thinking those of you indicating I can get it in shape for hand sanding with the spindle are correct, I just need the right grit and right touch.

I love this place.. you've probably saved me the money of buying yet another tool. :)

[Matt Schroeder]

Would a card scraper be of utility here? I have not tried it on a rounded surface, but love it for getting a really nice finish on flat areas.

[Bob Savage]

Would a card scraper be of utility here? I have not tried it on a rounded surface, but love it for getting a really nice finish on flat areas.

That's an interesting thought. I have shiny, sharp set of them that I bought eons ago and never used.

[Roy Harding]

No one is addressing the tight inside corners. No sanding drum or mop is going to get that tight corner. ...

You're right. The sanding mop takes care of the majority of the sanding, leaving the inside corners to be finished by hand.

Rounding the edges is an issue - but from the picture the OP supplied, it appears that softly rounded edges are desired anyway.

[Mark Bolton]

If your customer would rather have the tight inside corner (I would) make them in two pieces. The oval portion at the top, and the shaft. sanding would be simple. Template route both parts assembly line style. You could even jazz it up and make the oval slightly thicker than the shaft. Dowel and glue. Would be an upcharge of course.

[Bob Savage]

Roy,

You're correct, slightly rounded edges are desired.


If your customer would rather have the tight inside corner (I would) make them in two pieces. The oval portion at the top, and the shaft. sanding would be simple. Template route both parts assembly line style. You could even jazz it up and make the oval slightly thicker than the shaft. Dowel and glue. Would be an upcharge of course.

Another interesting idea. I had considered just making tops and doing like many other mfgs do and stick those turned "posts" (they're shaped, like for chair legs, etc.) into them but wanted something a little different. Interesting idea cutting both parts myself though.

[Bob Savage]

I'm certainly feeling a little silly right now. 80 grit sleeves is what I've got. I'm guessing I can make it work with 150. I'm still interested in workflow efficiencies though so I'm going to check out the mop.

[Lee Schierer]

My Bosch Multitool came with a triangular sanding pad attachment that does a marvelous job with 220 grit paper for getting into tight spots and corners.

[Bob Savage]

Thanks Lee, looks like another great tool!