Steampunk Mitrebox

[Derek Cohen]

During my recent build of the kist I was sawing mouldings on a Millers Falls Acme 74A, and realised that it was similar to cracking nuts with a sledgehammer. I would kill for a small version of this mitrebox, but they are rare as rocking horse droppings and twice as expensive.


I usually build a tool between furniture projects and, consequently, decided this one would be my own version of a small MF .... well, sort of ...


The mitrebox is Jarrah and brass, just under 17" in length, 4" deep, and 3 1/4" to the top of the fences. It is used with an 11" carcase saw I made 2 years ago. This has a 2 1/4" plate and is filed 14 ppi crosscut.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB1_zps9d212136.jpg


In order to make the depth as shallow as possible, the turntable (for the saw) needed to be small, and this led to placing it pivot point in the centre of the bed. To close up the gap in the fence that results from this, the fence contains a subfence that slides back-and-forth ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB3_zps43572d69.jpg


With the fences back, the mitrebox is optimised for mitres ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB2_zpsca4b134f.jpg


Here is the same moulding from the kist ....


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB8_zps5fe59c30.jpg


A comparison with a MF Acme 74A ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB9_zps558a0d92.jpg


The heart of the saw-holding mechanism is a plate with rare earth magnets ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB10_zps26380dfd.jpg


Another shot, as well as the angle locking mechanism ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB4_zps80e11953.jpg


The locking mechanism is built on a morticed Jarrah disk ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB7_zps7c03cc63.jpg


The fence is a 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" brass angle section, with Jarrah subfences. At the rear is a slide adjuster ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB5_zpsee0d0ed3.jpg


You can make out the angle settings. The fence is set up for quick adjustment to 45 degrees either way and 90 degrees. It has a variable range from about 40 degrees. The saw can be used on either side of the fence.


Here is a close up of the settings ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB6_zpsb8291f33.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB11_zps213ff8f8.jpg




Regards from Perth


Derek

[Chris Griggs]

Now that is COOL! I mean really really cool. That is something I could use. Please feel free to post more about the build process on your website :)

[steven c newman]

Kind makes my little GEM look a bit plain267925267926267927267928 Still use this one now and then267929mainly to cut corner blocks for tables267930

[Joe Ruden]

Beautiful work

[george wilson]

I wouldn't call it "steam Punk"(hate that word!!),because the device actually has purpose and really works. A neat idea. I hope the magnets are strong enough. I haven't tried rare Earth magnets yet. Those are big ones.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi George

We had the Perth Woodshow his weekend and your protege, Chris Vesper, stayed over with us (as he always does when in Perth). Blame Chris for naming the mitrebox! :) He was incorrigible, as usual. We had fun.

The rare earth magnets are very powerful. I think that I could have got away with two instead of three. They lie just under the surface, and the waxed wood is slick. The saw moves smoothly.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Looks like a great tool.

jtk

[george wilson]

You do well for someone who doesn't have metal working machine tools. I was that way until 1974. I HAD started using metal lathes in 1959,but didn't have my own till later. I could saw brass well with a wood bandsaw. Just guard your eyes and self from the chips popping all over!!

I need to polish up and re make a little part for my brass violin thickness gauge I made before I had machine tools. It came out well. I used it in the harpsichord movie.

[Peter Pedisich]

Derek, That is a fine looking mitre box and the craftsmanship looks fantastic. Also, considering the scale of all the brass bits you must be a VERY patient man! Thanks for sharing. -Pete

[Mel Fulks]

Yeah,that's beautiful .If the Super Bowl team got a trophy like that ....we'd see better football !

[jason thigpen]

Another great and innovative build Derek! Looks great and I'm sure it works even better. Good thinking on the brass angle. That really dresses this miter box up a bit.

[Tony Shea]

Very nice as always Derek. I agree with george in that your metal working skills are really excellent considering the tools you work with. I am very curious how you managed the locking mechanism, a little more detail on that would be awesome. Tools and how you made the brass circular so perfectly.

[Mike Allen1010]

Fantastic Derek! How is the rotating disk secured to the rest of box? Any suggestions of where to get the T nuts and matching knurled locking nuts? Did you make those too? For the locking mechanism how did you get the circular brass facing strip?

totally awesome- I want one!

regards, Mike

[Jim Matthews]

Okay - admit it, you don't actually sleep.

This one is worthy of being a sticky.
It's just involved enough to be clever,
but within the reach of us mortals to emulate.

The magnetic alignment strip is fiendish;
it appears to be simple, but is actually elegant.

I wish I could dream up half the stuff that seems to roll out of your imagination.
Like George Wilson said - these are working contraptions rather than shop jewelry.

If there's a shop drawing of this, please post it.

[Derek Cohen]

Fantastic Derek! How is the rotating disk secured to the rest of box? Any suggestions of where to get the T nuts and matching knurled locking nuts? Did you make those too? For the locking mechanism how did you get the circular brass facing strip?

totally awesome- I want one!

regards, Mike

Hi Mike


It looks like I shall have to dissemble the mitrebox for photos as I have had several requests. Fortunately it is just screwed together.

With the exception of the feet, which are modified drawer handles, I built everything. Amazing what one can do with a Dremel and files! http://www.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/smile.gif

The rotating disk is actually two disks, one screwed to the base and the other pivots above it. The lower disk is morticed for the lock, and the upper disk hold the rods for the sliding blade holder. The brace facing strip started life as flat brass, which came under the knife of a Dremel wheel, and then bent around the disk. Tough work as all the brass is about 3mm thick.

The knurled locking nuts were purchased on eBay (UK) for the router plane I built some months ago.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Steve Voigt]

I'll just join everyone in congratulating you on a fantastic job. Like so many of the projects you've designed, this one has given me a ton of ideas. Thanks for sharing!
Does the base lock at 45 and 90? Or are you simply lining up the pointer with the slots in the brass screws?
Thanks again for the inspiring build!

- Steve

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Steve.

The base does not lock at the 45 and 90. I deliberately chose not to do this as so often I find that one will need an accurate saw cut that is slightly less or more - consequently I wanted a variable angle set up.

There is a bit more to come. I still have the depth stop to build. The base upon which the mitrebox will stand is done (well, that only took a few minutes planing down a board in Curly Marri), and there is a sacrificial piece to use to prevent any damage to the turntable.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Holbrook]

WOW! That is a jewel Derek! I think you should emaill Rob Lee and see if he isn't interested in putting those into production. Rob ought to have something to offer you in return ;-) That looks like the ultimate solution to accurate easy angled cuts with a backsaw.

If I had not just invested in two Stanley 150 miter boxes I would be looking to make one of those. I think I got a good deal for two boxes and two saws. I paid less for the two boxes and two saws than the prices I am seeing for the small MF boxes alone. Supply & demand right, so I paid for a little parts insurance by purchasing two used miter boxes & saws.

The Disston saw with the newer box looks almost brand new in pictures, though I do not have it in hand yet. The handle has three bolts, beech wood I think. The markings are still visible on the blade, naming it a #4. I believe the bright steel back & beech wood means it was made after 1928-30 but earlier than 1940 when the handle shapes became much less refined.

I think the dimensions on Derek's miter box and saw are similar to the Stanley 150's & saws I have. The 150 fence is about 14" long, a few inches longer with the extension arm still on my newer saw (3.5" tall fence, 3.5" wide work support). The older saw I have looks like it may be a lesser/newer model than the newer looking/in better condition saw. The old saw is 16" x 4" , 12 ppi, and quite sharp. I think it will make a usable backup saw. Bad Axe makes customizable saws to fit small miter boxes like the Stanley 150 (16-20" long, 3.5-4.5" wide, 11-12 ppi....). The only issue for me with the Bad Axe saws is they are over $100 more than I paid for both my saws & boxes. I imagine the Bad Axe saw is a great saw, but that is a couple nice chisels right?

[Jeff Wittrock]

Derek,

This is just beautiful. I think using the rare earth magnets is a great idea. I would imagine that with a small, delicate saw, you can really get very good precision since the magnets would allow pretty much zero play as long as you aren't twisting you hand.
I have been getting into making wooden gear clocks and have been thinking about a small miter box saw and shooting board. I think something along these lines would be great for this.

Thanks for posting.

Jeff

[Matt Owen]

Wow! Beautiful work, Derek. I look forward to the rest of the pictures.

[Derek Cohen]

I added a simple base, to enable the mitrebox to be clamped on a benchtop ..


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB12_zpsd287d3eb.jpg


I plan to make a depth stop to control the depth of cut. In the meantime I will use a simple sacrificial board to avoid cutting into the turntable. The workpiece will sit on top of this board.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Punk%20Steam%20Mitrebox/MB13_zps06b44431.jpg


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks all.


The information, including pictures and construction details, is now on my website ...


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SteamPunkMitrebox.html


Regards from Perth


Derek

[David Weaver]

I recognize the base wood!

[Steve Voigt]

Thanks all.


The information, including pictures and construction details, is now on my website ...


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SteamPunkMitrebox.html


Regards from Perth


Derek
Thanks for posting this, Derek. I'll add this to the dovetail plane, plow, and a host of other projects I hope to get to...

[Mike Holbrook]

Derek how do you like the 11" carcase saw in your box? I got the Stanley 150 yesterday and it came with a Disston #4, 14 " x 4.5", 12 ppi saw. Another poster on this forum bought the Bad Axe 20" miter saw for his Stanley 150 and speaks very highly of it. I am torn between faster sawing and keeping things as compact as is reasonable. I am not sure a longer saw will save much time cutting smaller pieces. My single gripe with the new saw is the relatively thick heavy plate, compared to my Gramercy Sash saw of the same length. In a miter box the saw weigh may even be an asset but, there is still the matter of the kerf...I am also wondering about the long term effect of the saw plate sliding between two pieces of metal, although I think some Renaissance Wax may keep the plate running smooth.

[glenn bradley]

How fun. As always, a big thanks to Derek for sharing his work. Lots of cool little details going on on that box.

[Derek Cohen]

Derek how do you like the 11" carcase saw in your box? I got the Stanley 150 yesterday and it came with a Disston #4, 14 " x 4.5", 12 ppi saw. Another poster on this forum bought the Bad Axe 20" miter saw for his Stanley 150 and speaks very highly of it. I am torn between faster sawing and keeping things as compact as is reasonable. I am not sure a longer saw will save much time cutting smaller pieces. My single gripe with the new saw is the relatively thick heavy plate, compared to my Gramercy Sash saw of the same length. In a miter box the saw weigh may even be an asset but, there is still the matter of the kerf...I am also wondering about the long term effect of the saw plate sliding between two pieces of metal, although I think some Renaissance Wax may keep the plate running smooth.

Hi Mike

The 11" is long enough for the small pieces for which it is intended. The 14 ppi crosscut teeth leave a glassy finish that does not require shooting. My backup saw for the mitrebox is a 14" Gramercy sash saw, same as yours. Great saw.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Gary Muto]

Derek,

Amazing work as usual. Thanks for taking the time to share.

[Bernadette Semilla]

Hi Derek, no comments specific to this project but thanks for sharing these with us. I recently made my first marking knife from an old jigsaw blade thanks to the information on your website! :)

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Bernadette ... how about some pictures for us?

Regards from Perth

Derek